Red Eagle

[Martian]

Hi all Tipsy Pilot is trying to get hold of the build article and free plan for Ton,s Red Eagle featured in the July 2014 I've checked and all though I was certain I had the copy of the mag I cannot find it anywhere, is there a kind forum member that has this copy and willing to part with it please pm me , I promised I would send it to him and feel I have let him down he lives in Aussie land but I'm prepared to stand the cost myself. I have checked the back copy archive but it is not available and also searched on ebay

Thank you

Martian

[Glyn44]

HI,

I have sorted both the article and the plan for tipsy. In the post, on its way to Oz today.

regards, Glyn.

[kc]

It was very difficult to find but eventually I found the original Red Eagle build section. ( it is headed E glider not Red Eagle! )

Probably be helpful in addition to the article itself. Also searching for Red Eagle will produce several other threads which contain info.

I will also note here the link to RBC kits that Max found when I couldn't.   Also  the RBC short kit.  This might be helpful to others.    All the links to Red Eagle   are now here I think.

 

Edited By kc on 25/07/2017 11:48:30

[OZ e flyer]

Thank you Martian for your help, I really appreciate it.

Thank you Glyn44 for your generosity again, truly appreciated.

This really is an amazing community on this forum. I hope one day I can return the favour.

Once I get set up and started I will do a build blog for the forum and your entertainment. It's only my second ever build (sleeker was my first) so be gentle on me 😉. I am also a slow builder as I work away in the mines so patience will be required. I will keep in touch though and at least you will know I was fair dinkum about wanting to build Red Eagle. I hope I don't disappoint.

Thank you again everyone for your kind help.

TP

[kc]

The Red Eagle design like many other recent plans uses intricate parts to interlock - i.e makes the fuselage self jigging. This is fine if you buy a set of Laser cut parts but a real pain to cut out by hand. Most older pre laser cut plans don't have this but have plain rectangular formers which is usually quite strong enough and easy to cut out. Therefore I suggest if cutting out by hand that you consider leaving off the 'tabs' and not cutting matching slots. Maybe all the tabs or just perhaps put them on two formers to ease jigging.

If using no tabs at all then jigging can be aided simply by putting a pair of thin strips of 3/32 or 1/8 balsa on the fuselage sides ( make a pair of fus sides -not two the same !) to locate the main formers. These strips form a slot so the formers locate in the correct position on fuselage when gluing.

Of course if you enjoy woodwork and like making mortice and tenon joints or you are a marquetry expert and really like cutting to fine tolerances you will relish cutting the parts exactly as designed! For me simple accurately cut butt joints are better than mortice and tenons cut poorly........

If in doubt cut a couple of sample tabs & slots in some scrap balsa and try to make a square box -you will soon see if that's the right way for you.

[Martian]

A big thank you for your help I feel better now 👽

[OZ e flyer]

Thanks for the tips KC. Duly noted. I think straight cuts, butt joints and a little gussetting will be best for my level of craftsmanship.

[kc]

I have to admit to not having built this model! I bought the mag and studied the plan before giving up and building something else. I eventually realised that by eliminating the tabs the cutting out would be much easier. Eventually I cut tabs and mortices into 3mm liteply for another model and found it easier than expected. I used a straight edge and a Stanley knife using repeated light cuts and cut from both sides. The mortices I cut with a knife too but drilled the ends 3mm first. Won't work well on balsa though so use a tube to form holes in balsa.

Having now found the plan I am revising my comments a bit. I notice that the mortices for FO3, FO5 and FO6 are only cut in the fuselage doubler FO2 ( you will see what these are when you get the plan so generously donated by Glyn) and therefore they dont have to be very neat as the main fuselage sides will cover any errors. So you might consider just putting the tabs on those parts and eliminating the rest The mortice in FO4 looks impossible to cut by hand as it's so close to the edge. And you might want to put the tabs on the motor bulkhead too. Having just had an electric motor fly off in the air when the bulkhead pulled out ( on a completely different model ) I am very wary of how critical this joint can be!

My other comments are

the fuselage sides seem to be V jointed behind the wing to achieve a 44 inch long piece of balsa. If you cannot get a 48 inch sheet then a simple scarf joint might be easier. Lapped perhaps. Personally I would have the joint in front of the wing where it would automatically be lapped by the doubler.

I remember that several people were confused by the rounded motor front area and Ton explained this and maybe corrected something about the extent of the doublers and sides. It's probably all still here on the forum in one of the threads if you look.

It would be worth acquiring a suitable motor and folding prop before starting the fuselage as the space seems very tight. There might be enough space for a cross type motor mount. It's so much easier to do this to start with and build the model around the mount rather than trying to fit a mount in afterwards. I bought a Propdrive 2830 1100kv for another similar model from HobbyKing and it looks as though it would fit in the Red Eagle too.

Edited By kc on 25/07/2017 17:03:31

[OZ e flyer]

Thanks again KC.

I remember discussion about the rounded off motor area etc. Will definitely re-read the threads before I start and yes acquisition of a motor as well. I also remember some discussion on the motor shaft needing to be swapped to the other end of the motor. That could be a little interesting, pulling a brand new motor apart to reverse the shaft may have implications on product warranties. Anyway, all in good time. Research first will most likely alleviate a lot of concern.

TP

[Mike Stevens]

Motor end is possibly the most difficult part to do - mine was very thin when if finished. Lovely aircraft to fly though - worth the effort.

[Mike Stevens]

Motor end is possibly the most difficult part to do - mine was very thin when it was finished. Lovely aircraft to fly though - worth the effort.

 

Edited By Mike Stevens on 25/07/2017 19:08:55

[onetenor]

Some motors just need a few taps to drive the shaft out of the other end ,so there may be no need to dismantle your motor

[kc]

The Propdrive 2830 has the shaft coming out the correct end for this purpose i.e. the screw threads go through the front bulkhead and the motor rotates behind. This means the wires need to be kept out of the way of the rotating part of course.

[OZ e flyer]

Good to know KC thank you.

Do you have any of the overheating issues others have reported?

[OZ e flyer]

Sorry KC. Just remembered you said earlier you hadn't built one. 🙄

[Martian]

I've just read through ton,s build thread if you fly it like a hot flyer it will get a little hot but from what I see its not for that and if you loiter with on off throttle I doubt very much that it will get hot but there is and easy enough option to build in a scoop and vent

[kc]

I wonder if it would spoil the looks or the effiency too much if one mounted the motor outside using a backplate mount? It might be a lot simpler to install a motor that way and wouldn't overheat. In that case you might use a motor with the shaft the other end like this Turnigy 2830/11.

i suppose it would mean shortening the nose about an inch making the bulkhead a little larger and 'meatier'

[Glyn44]

Mine finished somewhat warm after a flight. So I created an air scoop at the rear underside of the nose block, and a exit aperture rear of fuse. Can do photo if asked.

[OZ e flyer]

Would love a photo glynn44.

Do you think a couple of holes carefully placed at the front engine mount former would be useful or wise? I have folding prop spinners that have a hole in the point of the nose cone designed to aid air movement through the spinner on to the motor. I also thought of fitting a former/firewall at the appropriate point for a rear mount motor but I'm in 2 minds about it.

I think I will keep the nose shaped as it is even if it does test my shaping and covering skills a bit.

TP

[kc]

Actually inserting the motor would be the problem if you have a rear mount. Building the motor in would be the only way

[OZ e flyer]

You're exactly right KC. Didn't think of that. Think I'll wait for the plan to arrive before I come up with any more bright ideas. Getting a bit ahead of myself I think. Lol.

[kc]

You mentioned covering skills when referring to the nose section. The trick with compound curves is to cut at least a 3 or 4 inch excess all round so you have something to grip whilst gently heating and easing the film around the rounded bit. This much extra seems wasted but it's not as it holds the film taught endwise and from the sides too. The very gentle curvature on the Red Eagle should be no problem if you have excess to hold.

It's not easy to find but this is the link to a video showing Derek Hardman ( inventor of Solarfilm ) using Solarfilm etc. Anyone not used to covering could spend an hour and half watching. this video.

[OZ e flyer]

Thanks again kc. will definitely take a look

[Michael Oliver 1]

G'day

thought I post pics of red eagle build RBC Kits, great kit, really well cut

[Alan Thorpe]

Hey Michael,

Great looking red eagle! Nice fillets on the outer wing panels and trailing edge....wish I had done that now!

Have you flown it yet??

Hope you enjoy it. I've flown it the most out of me fleet for past few years and love it. It flies so well, easy get 40 mins plus out of a 2200 if conditions are good.

Hope you are enjoying flying your model!!

Cheers

Alan