Ballerina

[inspector9566]

When I first bought it about a year ago i had to sent it all back to Horizon becouse I couldnt get a range check from it they replaced it with another dm8 and two new AR6200 RX's that I sent back with it.

they told me that it was due to the uk spec software and that a range check would be inconcistant so i carried on flying with no problems even with £1700 models at a thousand ft range 300ft high.

if im going to have a lock out just glad it was with something that only cost about £25 but i am going to be very careful about my next few flights but to be fair the ballarina was on an AR6100E rx and I may have flown out of range at 250 ft 30ft high or had the arial on the tx pointing at the model not a mistake I would normally make but who knows, that how accidents happen (fact of life).

[Foamie Dave]

 

I use 6100's with my DX7 and  have flown much further away than that without any probs which made us think it was the module

A few mins earlier he was nurfing around the sky with his 600 Rex so I supose we both came out reletively unscathed I suppose.

PS just check the antennas on your 6100 are intact, they tend to vibrate and break off (I usually tack mine down with a little por) . That aside I still prefer my 2.4 to 35mhz any day of the week.

[Erfolg]

Although, a trivial matter, do you make a hole in the fuaalrge to get one of the servo wire/cable to the receiver.

If a hole is required, I guess as small as possible, as near to the Neutral Axis( for bending)  as possible? From your experience is there any benefit from gluing a compensation disc around the hole, or is that a case of gilding the lilley.

I am now waiting to buy a 400ish 2s lipo from my favourite web site (none in stock). I have a 500 3s, but I guess that would burn out my motor as it is rated 11.1v and 7.5 amp. I am tempted though. I will also have to make a journey to buy one length of 2mm carbon fibre for a push rod. I have 1.5mm but I guess that is not stiff enough?

Erfolg

[Erfolg]

Another trivial question

I need to make hole in the ply control horns i have made for the ailerons. I do have drills which are small enough, but my dremel type drill is for collets and i do not have a collet anything like small enough. My Archimedes drill is now broken, therefore i can not use that. I have considered using the point of a compass, but that will be down to my skill and the integrity of the ply.

How do you indoor modellers do it?

Erfolg

[Foamie Dave]

To get the servo wire throug the fus just make a small slit with a blade then stick it back together once youve pushed the wire through. Dont bother with any reinforcement as the glue in the slit  will be stronger than the foam.

 1.5mm should be ok for the pushrods, just add a few extra supports to stop it flexing.

 A compass point will be fine to make a hole in the ply  if you havnt got a drill.

[Erfolg]

Thanks for the advice dave.

It may be of passing interest, the wobbly spats, firmed up with time. To the extent that after getting the glue gun out, I thought it might be worth giving it a go without first. To be honest, the glue gun is not my favourite tool, because i am useless with it, no nice, consistent, well shaped fillet, more of a iregular blob.

I have the drill, but not the means of rotating it!

Thanks again

Erfolg 

[inspector9566]

Erfolg turn the drill with your fingers I have a cordless dremmel with a chuck and adjustable speed but it is usually to harsh for small drills on ply.

[Erfolg]

Colin

My problem is that I need some very small diameter collets. The two i have are far to large a diameter for a 20swg drill size.

Do they make collets in this range, or do you need special drills with larger dia shanks?

Erfolg

[inspector9566]

use a pin vice the set that i have cost me about £4 inc postage from ebay and go from 0 to 4.2mm

[Erfolg]

David

I have now just about completed my ballerina. Yet I have a few more questions!

I have tried to set up the aerilons from the photogrphic images. But i suspect that they are excessive as i have done them. At present they are moving through 45 degrees up and down, about 1 inch or 2 inches total. The other surfaces look about OK, although greater than is my normal.

The other issue I have a small problem with is the heat shrunk sleeving on the linkages, where wire is used with the CF, they can be pulled through, relatively easily (although the not on the hindge type connection). I will try a spot of Cyn on the CF, wire and heat shrink, to see if that solves the problem.

I will shortly take some photos of the completed model and post them.

My model appears to be 15% over weight at 202g (complete with prop,500 lipo etc). I am not sure where the additional weight has come from.

I have been impressed with the practicallity of the design from the construction view point. French curves dealing with all the curves, the model coming out of one sheet, the use of round dimensions ie 20mm etc. You are to be congratulated for an elegant executed design from the construction stand point. The flying aspects i can not comment on as I have not flown it, nor have the experience to make any sensible comments

Erfolg  

[Foamie Dave]

The aileron (and all other surface) travel is purely personnal taste. I like to set mine with a lot of travel for silly stuff and 3D then tame the middle down with expo on the transmitter. Then I have a half rate switch set to about 60% travel for just normal aerobatics.   Once you have a few flights under your belt you can adjust it to your own style once youve got used to it and set the CG etc.

Yep , a dab of cyno will cure the slipping wire , just try to avoid getting it on the knee of the heat shrink or in might crack it.

200g's will be fine, it'll just fly slightly faster than a lighter one. Some of the chaps that I fly with who do this seriously could probably get the weight down to about 120gs but it would only last one competitonand wouldnt be able to fly outdoors. 

Thanks for the compliments, but the main credit must go to Jerry (Combs). A fine fellow from across the pond who designed it originally. I just did the construction and writeup for the mag, but ill pass on your kind comments..greatly apreciated

Just remember you need to use the rudder and ailerons in those turns  ..aileron only turns will just make it roll. 

Happy Flying !!

[Erfolg]

Now I have very nearly completed the model, i have taken some snaps, just in case, memories can be precious!

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z100/Brudertonne/Dscf0045.jpg

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z100/Brudertonne/Dscf0043.jpg

Ihave been tempted to try a flight today, But after flying a Nikko, Iplane in the park behind my house i have decided better, until flown in a wide open space. The trees seem a lot nearer when your model is at about 20 meters and heading for the trees, responding Ohhhh so slowly.

Anyway still need to sort the linkage slippage out, the motor tried to drag the ballerina from the bed complete with restraining towel.

May report first flights, as I am a novice at this type of model.

Erfolg

[Foamie Dave]

Looks great !! fingers crossed for some nice weather (dont risk it in the wind)

best of luck with the maiden

[Tim Mackey]

best of luck Erfolg.... and as dave says - wait for a calm day !