Who wants to share a new Flair Baronette build?

[Richard Rogers 2]

Hi Guys noticed the comment on ground looping. I posted my experiences of this a while back. I built a Baronette, I think in the late 90s fitted with well used OS 48 fs. Great in the air but ground loops were horrendous. The first flight was like an "I've been framed" it literally did u turn and finished in ditch. I did consider fitted a single axis gyro on the rudder. The solution that worked for me was the wire in a tube method. Instead of allowing the wheels to rotate on the fixed piano wire axle, use a piece of brass tube that is a good but free rotating fit over the piano wire axle, solder the tube to the undercart, insert the axle and solidly FIX the wheels to the axle. This obviously stops them rotating independently. I used brass collets as normal then drilled through them into the wheel and inserted an epoxied pin. The wheels are now locked to the piano wire axle and the whole thing rotates inside the firmly soldered brass tube. I found the torque steer was about the same then as a "normal" model as long as you were gentle with the throttle. You must line it up accurately on landing as with little or no steering it tends to wander once on the ground, but this is a minor irritation. Hope his helps.

Edited By Richard Rogers 2 on 10/08/2018 01:25:39

[Robert Parker]

Hi Simon,

Just came across this thread and though I'd share my experiences of the Baronette.

I built mine 14 years ago and the build was just like any other Flair scout kit except for the additional wing, covered in red solartex and powered by a two stroke of somekind.

However, the maiden flight was I'm afraid her last flight, due to not ideal ground conditions (longish grass) I pulled her off the ground too early and she porposed a while I struggled with her, maybe I had the CoG incorrect the end result was that she nosed in from around 20ft. On looking at the wreckage I was presented with 6 wings and a fuselage in pieces all of which went into a bin bag.

Hope your build goes well and have many happy flights I will be watching this build blog.

Regards

Robert

Edited By Robert Parker on 10/08/2018 09:35:43

[Simon Knight]

Good evening all, family holiday complete and back on to the build.

Have decided to do the tail feathers first and they seem pretty straight forward, indeed the instructions just say follow the plans so I have. Did them over the last 2 evenings and they don't take long, just need to be patient while the glue hardens nicely and do some basic finishing. I will do the LE shaping at a later date as want to move on to the fuse and see how the wings fit and get an idea of AUW to work on what power gear i need. I'm hoping the weight won't be far off my DVII or thereabouts.

I did wonder why the surfaces are built with such thick balsa, 6mm, when looking at my previous kits which are of very similar wingspan and they are a good couple of mm thinner which I assume would save weight too.

Anyway, sticking to the plans they are done for now. Hopefully move on to the fuse tomorrow.

 

Edited By Simon Knight on 14/08/2018 20:34:01

[Bustergrunt]

I’ve just acquired a mostly built one and am in the process of conversion to electric too

[Simon Knight]

Excellent, will be interested to see how you do and what set up you use. I am hoping I can continue to use my 3s3300 lipos that I use in the DVII I have.

[Bustergrunt]

I’m using 4s plus a scale prop ... 70 amp esc and a Hobby King ‘46’ motor turning at @460kv

[Charles Galloway]

Unfortunately I wrote mine off a couple of months ago, my fault, too slow turning back into wind and stalled it in. It flew really well on 3S and a cheap emax motor. The ground handling wasn't as bad as many people are saying. I tended to get it airborne quickly but then climb out slowly to look more scale like. I intend to build another from the plans.

[Bustergrunt]

Posted by Bustergrunt on 15/08/2018 10:13:44:

I’m using 4s plus a scale prop ... 70 amp esc and a Hobby King ‘46’ motor turning at @460kv

Whoops, make that 420Kv....just tested it on an 18/6.....CRIKEY, it’s a bit drafty

[Simon Knight]

Well progress is slow this week as we have had visitors etc, but the fuse is taking shape now. I have also ordered components for the power and controls. I'll be using a 3547 800kv with 45A ESC turning a 14x7 prop all powered by a 3300mah lipo. That combo is a recommended setup for the larger and heavier SE5a so am hopeful. Also checked and the battery will fit upright in the front compartment of the fuse so will help with CofG and means I just need to build in an access hatch; hopefully!

[Simon Knight]

 

A little more progress this week and I have only had to cut my finger from the balsa once this time; soon I’ll have no fingerprints left!

I have given up trying to follow the instructions in any particular order now and am building as much off plan than following the guidance. For me, there isn’t enough detail in them as it assumes higher skill and competency. Getting there though and I have learned to read a little more in advance too rather than line by line.

I have done more to the lower and middle wing and they now fit into the fuse which also has had more added. This actually seems to be a little more straightforward at the moment. The wing plan and bolt points etc make a lot more sense now they are matched up to the fuse and I have been able to position things better.

Only error on my part was adding the middle wing planking I have stuck it to the top surface of F10, not butted it against, so when adding the stringers to the tail, there is a step up to where the cockpit will be. My plan is to attach a little sheet balsa over the stringers so that the step blends more subtly.

I now need to do a lot more sanding on the stringers, and tail feather leading edges and also add the rest of the fuse pre cut parts to form a more rounded structure. May do that this evening and avoid waking my little boy with the sanding noise or have a glass of wine and do it tomorrow.

Edited By Simon Knight on 21/08/2018 19:49:54

[Simon Knight]

Ok some sanding done, tail feathers now have rounded LE and the fuse extra ribs have been smoothed too. I have now expoxied the firewall to the fuse. I won't be using that battery setup, just a useful weight.

Whilst this is setting I've marked out the scallops in the lower and middle wing ready for cutting tomorrow. I have noticed whilst doing this and looking at photos of DR1 that the middle wing in this model is actually incorrect as it doesn't have a cut away alongside the cockpit and actually on this model, the cockpit will have to be placed forward of the normal position, so it will be under the upper wing alot more that the real thing. I note that some of you have actually made the cut outs in this middle wing, but for this size, I think I'll leave it be.

I have also noted today that this model has single cabanes left and right on the fuse, but the actual aircraft has twins! I may look to see if I can fix something up, but if not will let it be after all, this is not a scale model

[Bob Cotsford]

I slit the supplied cabane strips and used them to make up an inverted V approximating the DR1. I didn't bother with the middle wing cutouts and nobody ever mentioned it . I originally flew mine with an OS 35FP, later converted to a 2815(iirc) motor and 50A esc running off a 4S LiFe pack. One day I'll resurrect it, maybe with a hatch between wing and cowl to make using LiPo more practical.

[Simon Knight]

Ok so a little more progress to report. I have now sheeted the fuse and it went ok after a bit of sanding.

To make the battery hatch I started with a solid sheet of balsa but it was taking too long and probably weight I don't really need, so I went for a more traditional style which just needs the magnets or some form of holding it in place to be added. Then I need to make something inside the bay to hold the battery in place.

Next was to fit the wings to see how they sit to get an idea for fixing the anchor point on the lower wing. She now is looking the part and it has encouraged me to keep going; not that I was going to stop.

As Bob has said above, I too have split the centre cabanes to give the model little more scale touch, but I won't be cutting into the middle wing.

And then finally today, I got the Dremel out for ease and cut in the scallops (?) which sealed nicely with a bit of CA where the TE separated and cut the first draft cockpit; may need to extend it or alter the shape once the pilot arrives from training.

Next is to look at installing the electrics. Covering is ordered, white, which will be painted in satin black. I'm putting off cutting the aluminium cowl at the moment.

Edited By Simon Knight on 26/08/2018 18:16:33

[Simon Knight]

Ok, so not quite installed the electrics just yet, but the wing servo mounts are done and I decided to cover the tail feathers to make it feel like more progress and also do something that I think is one of the best parts of building a model.

My covering is ordered from that store HK and was waiting for it to arrive so decided to use some left overs as a trial for covering and painting. Used the gloss white but it appears my iron is tainted from the olive green of my solartex on the Pup. Good job I plan to paint.

This was an excellent opportunity to try out the Halfords grey primer and see how it copes. Pleased to say that whilst there is no picture of the grey, having applied the satin black (Halfords again;I don't work for them nor am i sponsored, yet!!) on top, I am very happy with the way it takes and the overall finished effect. I think the whole aircraft covered like this will look very nice.

[Simon Knight]

A bit more covering over the weekend and some trial and error frustrations when it came to adding the markings too.

Covered the lower wing and planned on painting it then adding Solarfilm markings afterwards. However, they would not settle nicely over the ribs and kept wrinkling which looked really bad. In the end. I decided to cut away the first covering and reapply white. Using Solarfilm stencils I then sprayed the black, removed the Solarfilm and was left with a much neater white cross n which to apply the black crosses. All seems to look much nicer and I will just need to take the shine off with some satin/matt varnish later.

I am also using up old bits of covering as we go, especially as they are just going to get painted anyway.

Definitely getting there and will do the rest of the electrics this week all being well.

Oh as an aside, the scallops in the TE may look nice, but what a pain they are to cover!!

[Simon Knight]

Fitted the aileron servos and covered the upper wing today. Learning from the lower wing, I masked the area to be white with Solarfilm (black as I have more of this) and then sprayed it. For the Aileron themselves, they were already black so I added white Solarfilm; a day of negatives

Definitely happy with the progress and finish on this now.

[Simon Knight]

We are making slow progress but it is still an enjoyable task. I am very pleased with this kit so far and it is certainly proving to be a learning experience.

Fitted the push rods on the aileron servos, and have also fitted the snake guides in the fuselage along with the servos for rudder and elevator.

Covered the fuselage in its entirety utilising cheap white covering from HK. I have been very pleased how well it sticks and how easily the creases and loose material tighten up under some heat from my Screwfix heatgun special. A little direct heat and it just tightens up very nicely; don't do it too long or it will pop! I know, it happened but easily fixed.

The thing I like about this covering methods is that you can go from a bare frame to coloured and decalled in less than 2 hours. Just need to get the more detailed decals made tomorrow and she will look the part with an added coat of satin varnish to blend it all in.

I must add that as long as you don't apply this Halfords Acrylic paint too closely, it has an excellent and smooth finish!

[Simon Knight]

Fettled the size and quality of the final decals last night and printed them off on white water slide decal paper:

Cut them out and stuck them in the frying pan for 2 minutes on both sides to get an even soaking then carefully applied to the fuselage. Note that the paint at the edges seeped unfortunately.

With a carefully applied bit of Lifecolor satin black, I have tidied the edges. Once fully dry, I will apply satin varnish to seal the decal and dull down the crosses too.

Edited By Simon Knight on 09/09/2018 20:31:41

[eflightray]

It was so long ago, probably 30 year, and the last IC powered model I had before going electric only.

Ray.

.

[Simon Knight]

A nice looking machine!

[Paul james 8]

I have a very tidy one of these that I bought recently, it needs an engine up front and I have a very strong OS 40 four stroke, OS 48 FS or a Saito 45 to choose from.

Mine has no hole in the wing for the pilot so I could do with any references to that on the plan if one of you has that detail, also the C go G if possible would be very much appreciated.

I've got a fair few of the flair scouts, they are great kits and the biplanes fly really well IMHO.

It would be fun to fly them together, I've just finished the second of my four pups, once they are all up together I plan to get them all in the air at the same time, with the help of some cub mates.

[Simon Knight]

Good morning Paul, please see the picture below of the plans for the detail you refer. Hope it helps. The hole for my pilot has been cut but may need expanding once he arrives as i used a trainee from my hangar to cut this first one. I haven’t cut the covering away just yet. I guess there doesn’t have to be one even this big, just as long as you can access the wing bolt. There is a clearer picture of this wing on page 2 of the thread and also photo 46 in my album for this model.

 

Edited By Simon Knight on 10/09/2018 07:47:09

[Paul james 8]

Good morning Simon, Many thanks for the info, my middle wing has some sort of round bung in it to cover the screw hole so I guess I will just enlarge that hole and put an edging around the opening. That way I can add a pilot and blame him for the flying errors

C of G just ahead of the interplane strut so that should be fairly straightforward to get at.

Need to get a couple more pups finished first then on to the triplane, might sneak in the Nieuport ahead of it as I have the Flair one and Balsa USA version.

[Simon Knight]

Got round to doing my first aluminium cowl today.

Marked it out:

Drilled out the holes and broke my drill bit:

Painted it:

[Simon Knight]

Weekly update!

So I have made some progress this week, but it is with tasks I have put off due to my lack of finesses particularly with soldering.

Mounted the motor so that I could see how the cowl would sit and also to see where the battery would fit best in the fuse and how the hatch wold be secured. Motor sits neatly on 4 bolts with nuts fixed to give the relevant angles off centre line. The ESC will be fitted under the cowl too for cooling purposes. The larger prop in use looks good and isn't too big that it will suffer ground strikes on our uneven runway surface/grass.

As Danny did with his build, I have used the Spandaus to act as handle to remove the battery hatch more easily. It wasn't until fitting these that I realised how much longer the nose is on this kit than the real thing, but at least it gives me space to play with. Pilot has arrived but he is just waiting kitting hence his grey man appearance (just trying him out for size).

So had to solder the undercarriage. The bit I have been putting off. I have a 100W iron now and with a bit of patience and luck managed to get the u shaped wire held in place and secured by leaving a short cut of solder in the join heated the metal and as it started to melt, added additional solder to fill the gaps. Added some copper wire for extra restraint and it seems pretty robust now.

I didn't like the way the wing was too short unlike the real thing so decided to extend it with the hope that it would also hide the not so neat soldering. I know there has been discussion about fixed and rotating axles, but I have decided to go fixed as I have never really had any issue with wheels not rotating together, just give it more rudder and ease up the throttle gently.