David Hall 9 Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 Years ago, I had a go at cutting wing cores from blue foam. I got several wings from that method, but suffered a technical problem in that the wire was too slack (was taut before it heated), resulting in the wire dragging behind in the middle of the core. I'd like to try again for some glider wing cores with thin sections. Is there a clear choice of wire type/gauge and bow design for a bow used to cut a 800mm core? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 You need to re-tension the wire once the power is switched on. Use a Spanish windlass type type bow for easy tension adjustment - see this recent thread. Edited By PatMc on 15/01/2019 19:33:37 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hall 9 Posted January 15, 2019 Author Share Posted January 15, 2019 When I tried that, it seemed to stretch the wire.. which was near to red heat at the time, so perhaps too hot. I was using nichrome wire, I forget what gauge. Edited By David Hall 9 on 15/01/2019 19:30:25 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hall 9 Posted January 15, 2019 Author Share Posted January 15, 2019 Is stainless steel wire less prone to stretching whenre-tensioned whilst at cutting heat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denis Watkins Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 Even in a darkened room, you will not see the heat from a hot wire cutter, David So the gear needs adjustment Home made hot wire cutters are sprung too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 Posted by David Hall 9 on 15/01/2019 19:29:30: When I tried that, it seemed to stretch the wire.. which was near to red heat at the time, so perhaps too hot. I was using nichrome wire, I forget what gauge. Edited By David Hall 9 on 15/01/2019 19:30:25 That's too hot by far, the wire shouldn't glow at all. Best reduce the temp & try on scrap pieces of foam adjusting the temp until the wire passes through the foam steadily but doesn't melt it much more than the wire dia. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted January 15, 2019 Share Posted January 15, 2019 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hall 9 Posted January 15, 2019 Author Share Posted January 15, 2019 Thanks for your replies, and the link to a similar discussion. Some experimentation may be needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simone Perfetti Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 Hello, I solved a similar problem by applyng a small diameter spring to apply tension to the wire , when the wire is hot the elongation was around 7-10mm on 800mm of total lenght, I used a pull spring of 5 mm diameter, 40mm long, hope could be helpful for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Duncker Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 I used big elastic bands for tension, wing retaining size, and well stretched. From memory 3 or 4 on the 36 inch bow and two on the 8 inch. Thinking about it today and it was 20 years ago I set them up, the tension should have been the same on both so same number of bands required but I definitely used more bands on the longbow. I was always a cut and shut measure by eyeball 'git her done' engineer. Edited By John Duncker on 11/03/2019 21:11:46 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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