Newbie with some starter trainer plane balsa IC questions please.

[Nu Me 1]

I couldn't see to edit an earlier post so just wanted to confirm. Project so far

Plane: SIG Kadett LT-40 - Now ordered

Engine: OS Max 46AXII Engine with E-3071 Silencer - Now ordered

Some resin, glue and pins - Now ordered

Thanks all.

[Nigel R]

"as with bikes, one will not be enough."

N + 1 applies equally.

[Peter Miller]

T he nicest bike I ever owned

My last bike very much customised.

Edited By Peter Miller on 11/07/2019 13:59:40

[David Davis]

As regards radios, I would choose the same make as used by your instructor. Once you are able to fly you will be able to choose something else if you want to.

Futaba are the industry standard, you won't go wrong with a Futaba radio.

Spektrum are the new kids on the block and are very popular.

Multiplex and Graupner are German makes and enjoy an enviable reputation and there are a number of newer producers like Taranis which are becoming more and more popular.

Hitec servos are well-regarded. I nearly always use Hitec servos.

PS. I recommend Aliphatic glues for building.

I wish I'd never sold the yellow one. The red one is getting a bit too heavy for my seventy-one year-old knees.

Edited By David Davis on 11/07/2019 14:01:35

[Nu Me 1]

Nigel - n+1 is my normal concept, but not sure I can afford all of those £20 Primark visits haha

Peter - Very nice!

David - Looking at Futaba but I may wait until I get the training info sorted. I have ordered Aliphatic Resin as part of the order.

I do get the weight issue, I had a Duke 800 Scrambler and that was a nice light bike for it's size and power.

I PX'ed it for the Monster - which is a bike I wanted from the mid 1990's when the first 600 came out. The Monster is a little too much TBH. I am running out of bike years left so decided to tick the box. Thinking that another Scrambler or a BMW GS Urban may be my next(last?) bike.

Looks like the bike thread has started

Edited By Nu Me 1 on 11/07/2019 14:13:51

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[Nigel R]

"n+1 is my normal concept, but not sure I can afford all of those £20 Primark visits haha"

You'll use the trainer.

Then you'll want a slightly more advanced trainer.

Then you'll want a warbird or something faster.

Then you'll think a biplane might be nice.

At which point you'll realise you want something small to chuck in the car.

Then you want a small fast one to deal with a bit of wind.

And maybe a large floaty one.

Then you think about a 3d aerobat.

And then there's the time there is snow on the ground and you need a floatplane.

After that you realise you don't have a delta...

...or a canard...

...then someone mentions gliders...

[Nu Me 1]

Percy - The old Plastic maggot, 1 Million couriers can't be that wrong. I looked at one that had been "urban'ed" on Fleabay the other week. It looked OK and the engine was still going.

Nigel - I get it, and am guilty of it in other hobbies I have had. A biplane and a Spitfire already appeal.......................................Oh dear!!

[Don Fry]

Nu Me, bit of advice, stick to basics, learn the trade. Compare and contrast those you know, or sometimes used to know unfortunately, who thought the transit from a CB125 to the Ducati was easy.

My biking career ended when I retired. For the last 5 years of work, I had a hard commute, and cars didn't work. I got a second hand Yamaha Diversion 900, and put 150 thousand miles on it in those 5 years. And that cured me of ever wanting to step on a bike again.

Sorted out a back problem mind. Heavy bike, works the back muscles.

[John Duncker]

Just had a glance through and did not see anyone mention a simulator. Many people find time spent on them to be worthwhile especially if they have one that has a cable to connect to your tranny. Generally the things learners find most difficult is dealing with rudder and aileron reversal when the model is flying to wards you and setting up for a landing.Phoenix was a brand I remember as being good but I may be out of date on this.

If you are thinking Spitfire in the future then buy a tranny with at least 8 channels 2 for aileron plus 1 each for rudder elevator motor retracts and flaps. A compatible 4 channel receiver will do fine for the trainer.

Good choice on model and engine.

Now about those bikes. I have some unhappy memories of RD 400s and LC 350s. On trackdays with my big Duke laid well over some spotty herbert on a stroker Yam would go past as if I was standing still quite ruining my self image as the next Foggy.

Edited By John Duncker on 11/07/2019 16:59:23

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[Nu Me 1]

Don - One trainer to build and learn on is more than fine with me at the moment.

150k miles in a car over 5 years is too many, on a bike it it momentous. The Monster had it's first annual service on Monday. at 1900 miles.

[Nu Me 1]

John - I did see that there were sims that plugged in to TX's. I wasn't sure if they were frowned upon to be honest? I was thinking an 8 channel. and as for bikes - we are all Foggy and I was lucky enough t see him ride at Brands many moons ago.

Percy - I hope your RC history is better than your biking one. I did laugh at the Mower and CX cornering joke

[Cuban8]

Simulators..............very remiss of us not to mention them. Yes, a great idea to get you going and to fine tune your skills or expand your scope (helis?) as time goes on. Transmitter modes..............clearly whatever mode your instructor uses will be the one to go for. If he's a gentleman it'll be mode 1, if he's a ruffian and deluded that it's more like real flying, it'll be mode 2...................takes cover in shelter, avec tin hat.

Met Foggy, McPint and Peter Hickman (a real nice bloke) at the London bike show in February . Brave blokes and so down to earth..

[Nu Me 1]

Thanks Cuban8. I may have a decent look at the sims. Not really interested in choppers (unless they are 3 gear, orange and live in the 1980's).

Just to confirm, test my understanding and not to stir , if you use mode 2 then something is wrong?

Have never been much into BSB and never been to the TT. I used to follow the 24 hour endurance circuit. Spent many a happy hour at Spa, Le Man's, Paul Ricard etc following the motorcycle endurance racing.

[Don Fry]

Posted by Nu Me 1 on 11/07/2019 19:07:24:

Thanks Cuban8. I may have a decent look at the sims. Not really interested in choppers (unless they are 3 gear, orange and live in the 1980's)

I looked at that sentence for 5 mimutes before I realised you were not describing young ( then) ladies. Got to get out more.

[Stuart Z]

Hi Nu Me 1

Mode 1 or 2 can vary with what part of the country you live in. Mode 2 is now dominant in the South. Oddly I learnt on Mode 1 in the South but am now very much in the minority. (T’was 30 or 40 years ago!)

Most Transmitters can do either, so not a a buying issue.

Good luck with your learning curve, and I hope it goes well for you.

s

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[David Davis]

Nu Me 1

I think that you should adopt the mode which is used by your instructor.

In 2015 I retired to France. 85% of French pilots are Mode 1. Out of the 31 members of my club only three of us are Mode 2 and the other two don't turn up very often.

It is possible to learn to fly if your instructor flies on a different mode. I am currently teaching two blokes: a Frenchman who flies Mode 1 and an Englishman who has opted for Mode 2. To turn a model aircraft you use the ailerons to bank the model and you pull a little up elevator to prevent the nose from dropping. Using Mode 1 you would have to push the right-hand stick to the side and pull the left-hand stick towards you. A Mode 2 pilot uses only the right-hand stick for this manoeuvre, push to the side and pull towards you. With the Frenchman I have to TELL him what to do, with the Englishman I can demonstrate the process on my own transmitter.

[Nu Me 1]

Good morning all.

Don - I read your post last night and still haven't worked out what you were thinking. I was thinking Raleigh Chopper.

Stuart - Thanks for the information. It is good to know that when it is electrics time, that there are multiple choices.

Percy - Thanks again. I will be lead by any instructor when it is time to fly.

David - Sound advice. I don't want to complicate things so will learn the mode preferred by my instructor.

Thanks to everyone who have contributed to my knowledge to date. My wallet feels a lot lighter thanks to your help - and I know I haven't even started .

Status this morning. Plane, engine, some glues and some tools ordered. Things I am thinking about are; electronics, covering, more tools and glues and workshop/bench area. Rather than do them all together I would like to focus on preparing for the big box arrival - so some advice on tools, glues and workshop/bench area please.

Glues

I have ordered some Aliphatic Resin and SMC Cyanotec Super Glue. I have PVA. is there anything else/better please? How much would I need to get for the LT-40? Thanks

Tools

I do have a large selection of tools but limited modelling stuff. I have screwdrivers. spanners, grips etc. quality drills and a dremil.I have a vice and have ordered a generic 30pc "Deluxe" Craft Tool Set (Love the word "deluxe" it reminds me of my first Vauxhall Viva). I have some spring clamps. multimeters and loads of other bits. Is there anything that absolutely should be in my arsenal please?

Working area

I am going to wait until the kit turns up but am considering where to make it. My man cave is a 10 x 16 wooden building with lights, power and Tinterweb access. I do have a metal workbench but was thinking of adding a trestled board set up as well. any thoughts please.

As always, thanks in advance.

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[Peter Miller]

Ah!! Tools. I never begrudge spending money on tools.

You will need scalpels and a big box of blades I favour the Swan Morton Number 4 handles and no 10 blades, Cheaper by the 100 box.

A mini drill such as Dremel although a cheaper one from Argos works well. Make sure it has a chuck as the collets are a total pain. For your Minidrill you will find that Heavy dury cutting discs and a mandrel are great, the only way to cut piano wire (Use safety goggles) Sanding drums are useful. I have a Dremel and an Argos one. I have a right angle drive for the Dremel. It only gets used about once a year but it is worth its weight in gold then.

Once you get into building from plans a power scroll saw is vital. Not only does t cut comploicated ply formers but also the holes inthe middle of txhem. IT is also good for cutting thick balsa such as wood over 1/4" thick. IT qwill also cut hardwoods.

Soldering irons are essential. A large one for soldering undercarriage legs that have been bound with copper wire

Smaller ones for electrical work.I have an ancient 75 Watt for heavy work, a 40 Watt Weller one which also doesn bound 8 SWG undercarriages, a 25 Watt for normal electrical work and a 12 Watt one for really delicate work (Just soldered up a broken connection on my car remote locking control.key fob)

You need a building board or two. I have two 48" X 12" melamine shelves covered with 10 mm thick cork tiles. These allow me to build two wings at once and to stack them on end while drying. NOTE: they must be used on a flat surface or they can sag over a long time.

I could go on but others will be adding to the list.

 

Edited By Peter Miller on 12/07/2019 08:55:04

[Nigel R]

"I do have a metal workbench but was thinking of adding a trestled board set up as well. any thoughts please."

You can always go large later - for now, just pop a piece of 1/2" plasterboard on the bench; it will stop anything gluey getting to the workbench, and takes pins very well.

"Glues"

a pack of 5 min epoxy would complete your set, I think. I use cyano and PVA in the main, epoxy gets occasional use on awkward materials or joints that may need a little gap filling for whatever reason.

"Is there anything that absolutely should be in my arsenal please"

steel rule, 12"

scalpel, or , x-acto (or similar) knife, either are good for balsa, I prefer the x-acto,

sanding blocks. A coarse and fine block is essential. I use 9" x 2" pieces of 3/4" MDF, with 80 grit and 180 grit glued to it. At the end of the build, some 180 grit in the hand is useful. Some 180 grit on neoprene on an MDF block is also handy. For odd corners and slots you can just glue bits of paper to appropriate size/shape bits of hard balsa.

You will likely want a razor plane at some stage, but probably not for this kit trainer build.

 

"covering"

hobbyking iron on film, its the best value film out there; you will want a covering iron to go with it... you can use a household iron, but they are a bit clumsy.

some sort of fuel proofer for the engine and tank area. thinned epoxy resin is used by many on here.

 

lastly, a small beer fridge and something to go in it, you'll be in the man cave for a working week or two!

Edited By Nigel R on 12/07/2019 09:23:48

[David Davis]

I am currently building a large model on plaster-board. This is the first time I've used plasterboard. It works a treat and is as cheap as chips.

[Peter Miller]

One correction.

I use the 25A blade with the No 4 scalpel handle, The 10 blade with the No 3 scalpel handle

Permagrit sanding blocs afre the best...they never wear out. I use an 11" block, coarse one side fine on the other.

If you are using CA always keep a bottle of acetone to hand, it dissolves CA glue and gets it off your fingers. (Nail Varnish remover is the same stuff. It also cleans Epoxy off

Edited By Peter Miller on 12/07/2019 10:19:57