Anton Webers Posted May 3, 2020 Share Posted May 3, 2020 Not sure that hinging will work properly. I feel you'll need a hinge on the outer end as well. I haven't figured out the solution for the ailerons yet, but the rudder and elevators will be hinged with either a hinge (need to check the thicknesses that exist, hinge tape or a fabric like hinge fleece. The later reduces the needed thickness compared to normal hinges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anton Webers Posted May 3, 2020 Share Posted May 3, 2020 Perfect, I was wondering how I'm supposed to get the cockpit in with D3 (actually D5) and B2 glued to the fuselage and not as a support for the cockpit skin. Yes, I'm also building the electric version. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Walsh Posted May 3, 2020 Author Share Posted May 3, 2020 Posted by Anton Webers on 03/05/2020 14:15:29: Not sure that hinging will work properly. I feel you'll need a hinge on the outer end as well. I haven't figured out the solution for the ailerons yet, but the rudder and elevators will be hinged with either a hinge (need to check the thicknesses that exist, hinge tape or a fabric like hinge fleece. The later reduces the needed thickness compared to normal hinges. The arrangement with the carbon tube and wire is simply to join the two elevator halves together, the elevators will be hinged to the tailplane with mylar hinge material. The ailerons will be top hinged with tape above and below, the cross section is shown below. They are solid, made from trailing edge balsa stock and scrap balsa sheet. The bottom surface is shorter than the top to allow the aileron to move down. Doing it this way means that there is no gap between the aileron and the wing on the top surface. If they were centre hinged the profile would need a wedge shape to and bottom. Edited By Shaun Walsh on 03/05/2020 14:28:30 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anton Webers Posted May 3, 2020 Share Posted May 3, 2020 Ah OK. I thought that was supposed to be the hinge. But that makes sense. Yes, I'm a little behind you with my model. I was just wondering from the plan on how to do the ailerons. But like you said, it needs a gap. I guess I'll figure it out once I get to that point 😁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Walsh Posted May 3, 2020 Author Share Posted May 3, 2020 Hi Anton, sent you a PM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Walsh Posted May 4, 2020 Author Share Posted May 4, 2020 WARNING I have just started covering the wings with the film supplied in the kit, which is pretty good quality, not quite as good as Oracover, I did manage to melt a small hole in one section. However, I have discovered that as the film shrinks it distorts the ribs at each end of the aileron. I would therefore suggest that rib L10 is reinforced with a ply half rib from spar to trailing edge and L4 from leading edge to trailing edge similarly. Hopefully this should be enough to stop the distortion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anton Webers Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 Hi Shaun, Am I missing something or does the party K1 at the base of the vertical stabilizer not exist? Instead I found I6, H5 and K4 with the last being balsa and the others being plywood. The two plywood would be a bit too thick, so the one plywood with the balsa would just be right. That's strange isn't it? Was it the same for you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Walsh Posted May 6, 2020 Author Share Posted May 6, 2020 Posted by Anton Webers on 06/05/2020 19:27:00: Hi Shaun, Am I missing something or does the party K1 at the base of the vertical stabilizer not exist? Instead I found I6, H5 and K4 with the last being balsa and the others being plywood. The two plywood would be a bit too thick, so the one plywood with the balsa would just be right. That's strange isn't it? Was it the same for you? Hi Anton Yes, see my post of 1st April. I used the one ply one balsa route. Haven't fitted the fin and tailplane yet as I will cover them before fitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anton Webers Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 Ah yes, OK. Yes, I won't do that either. I was just wondering when I wanted to cut out all the parts for the rudder and that one wasn't right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffrey Cottrell 2 Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 Hi Guys Don't want to hijack the thread but I wonder if I could ask a question. Has anyone used or built a T30 from the same source? I have one in build now, and I am finding some major issues. Been in touch with Dancing Wings, who to their credit, were very prompt in replying and welcoming to my feedback. Been asked to put down in detail what issues I found and how I got over them, but I can only offer my experiences. Would be a help to get someone else's take on things. I do have my own thread here, but that looks like a ghost town in midwinter. I know, I know it's my aftershave that puts people off. Anyway, back to the thread Cheers Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anton Webers Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 Hey Jeffrey, No I don't have that model, but if you have the same problems we do, then it's mostly no correct instructions and some part numbers wrong. The instructions either show wrong part numbers or not the detail needed. If you read through here, you probably recognized similar things from your set. I mean some fiddling around is fine, but the accuracy in the numbering of the parts or assembly itself should be more according to the plan. But they do have nice models, just the assembly quality of their sets could be better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Fairweather 1 Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 Sorry to hijack here my DW Astro Junior build post seemed to fall on deaf ears as well Jeffrey, so I stopped posting . We must share an aftershave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffrey Cottrell 2 Posted May 6, 2020 Share Posted May 6, 2020 Hi Anton, thanks Been following this thread and also Rob's on the Astro Hog, so I know they have had issues with part numbers etc. However mine go a bit deeper than that. Parts that are laminated together that don't even match, pre-cut sheeting sections that don't fit., spar webs not cut square and worst of all wing spars made out of re-cycled noodles. Add to that they are supplied in sections to fit the box and designed to be butt joined together. To DW's credit they have readily accepted what I had to say, even to the extent of asking me if I would help with an upgraded build manual. I have offered my experiences, but I would like to find someone else who has built the model and can offer some contrast. We'll see Jeff (btw not jeffrey, that's far too formal amongst friends) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Walsh Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 This is what happens when you shrink the film on the wings, this is the wing rib on the inboard end of the aileron cut out . Will need to sort this out somehow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Walsh Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 On a more positive note, the supplied cowling is a good fit, however the parts supplied to attach the cowl to the fuselage aren't good. Parts Q4 don't fit properly if you make the electric version and I wanted something more substantial at the sides to be able to attach the cowl with small screws. So I made top and bottom sections from scrap balsa, the side pieces are pieces of trailing edge section faced with ply to accept the screws. All pieces are angled inwards slightly so that the cowl is easy to push on, it took a few tries and some judicious application of sandpaper but a good fit was achieved. Edited By Shaun Walsh on 07/05/2020 12:21:35 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Walsh Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 Undercarriage next. The wheels supplied are 1.5 inches in diameter which is a bit small, I think you would need an 8 or, max, 9 inch prop to get ground clearance. This would mean the motor would need to be around 1200 to 1400KV. The motor I have is 1020KV so I don't really want to go below 10 inches, hence the bigger wheels. Also, one of the sites I fly at is a little rough, so big wheels make take off a lot easier. These are 2.25 inches. The aluminium undercarriage is fine but the center section is flat so you will either have to bend it in the middle to accommodate the wing dihedral or put some packing on the wing to fit the undercarriage to or attach it to the fuselage just in front of the wing which will need some reinforcement. I chose to just bend the aluminium and attach direct to the wing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anton Webers Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 Yes, the screws for the wheel axis were also not really useful without some additional nuts and washers. I was thinking about the same approach for the motor cowling. I used the balsa parts that came for it, but want to use some plywood for screws as well. Good to see that I'm on the right track 😁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyGnome Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 This kit is on my 'lockdown to do' list but not looking forward to it now tbh... GG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Walsh Posted May 8, 2020 Author Share Posted May 8, 2020 Posted by GrumpyGnome on 07/05/2020 19:25:09: This kit is on my 'lockdown to do' list but not looking forward to it now tbh... GG Actually, its not that bad, the kit itself is ok it's just the design that has a few flaws which can be easily rectified if you know about them in advance with some spare balsa and ply, but the instructions leave a lot to be desired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anton Webers Posted May 10, 2020 Share Posted May 10, 2020 Based on the way the rudder parts are cut and arranged, I'm wondering if the rudder was not meant for a horn balanced rudder like the Piper Cup has (Image). Not sure about the aerodynamic effects for this plane and if it is beneficial or makes things worse. But if I would cut the horn off, it's harder to undo it later. If anyone has some experience on the behaviour with a horn balanced rudder, let me know 😁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Walsh Posted May 10, 2020 Author Share Posted May 10, 2020 Posted by Anton Webers on 10/05/2020 15:45:15: Based on the way the rudder parts are cut and arranged, I'm wondering if the rudder was not meant for a horn balanced rudder like the Piper Cup has (Image). Not sure about the aerodynamic effects for this plane and if it is beneficial or makes things worse. But if I would cut the horn off, it's harder to undo it later. If anyone has some experience on the behaviour with a horn balanced rudder, let me know 😁 Hi Anton Well that's the way I built it. Also, I have a HobbyKing Hummer and a Max Thrust Riot which both have balanced rudders and fly without any adverse issues. Also, the fin wasn't very strong in torsion so I added triangular fillets between the base and the leading and trailing edges which made a big improvement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anton Webers Posted May 10, 2020 Share Posted May 10, 2020 Hi Shaun, Oh, I thought you cut it off vertically judging from your post last time. Do you mean fillets between the horizontal and vertical stabilizer? Yes, they are not yet ready. I need to get some more coarse sandpaper first, I only have super fine one left. By the way, the slot in the end part of the trail as well as in the wing end part been the wing and the aileron look a lot like slots for some fabric hinges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Walsh Posted May 10, 2020 Author Share Posted May 10, 2020 Posted by Anton Webers on 10/05/2020 16:17:47: Hi Shaun, Oh, I thought you cut it off vertically judging from your post last time. Do you mean fillets between the horizontal and vertical stabilizer? Yes, they are not yet ready. I need to get some more coarse sandpaper first, I only have super fine one left. By the way, the slot in the end part of the trail as well as in the wing end part been the wing and the aileron look a lot like slots for some fabric hinges. No, at first I was going to cut it vertically but looked at the full size space walker and realised that it was a balanced rudder. The fillets I was talking about are not the ones between the fin and tailplane. If you look at the fin, the join between the leading edge and the base (the balsa/ply laminate part that goes through the tailplane) is quite weak so I added a triangular fillet to strengthen it, same with the trailing edge joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anton Webers Posted May 10, 2020 Share Posted May 10, 2020 Ah OK. Yes, maybe a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Walsh Posted May 10, 2020 Author Share Posted May 10, 2020 Have just started covering the fuselage with the supplied film. The fuselage bottom aft of the wing is a bit too flexible, as the film shrinks it pulls the fuselage sides in a little. It is only a small amount so I will live with it, however, if I was building another one I would reinforce the fuselage bottom either by adding a balsa doubler between the formers or adding extra cross braced half way between the formers. Anton, you may want to consider this before you begin covering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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