building boards and plastic over plans ?

[Paul Jones 1]

I've a lot to learn (that goes for most subjects by the way) but we've got my dad his first model with a little help from the Leeds model shop and the guys on this site. We've received most of what we need to start the build, but I have a question about building on the plan.

My brother, who now lives in Australia flew RC planes for many years, although, like myself, we've been out of it for a long time now.

Just wanted to double check a couple of things with you :

1, we need some form of building board, something we can pin into, is there a usual DIY solution to this, do we buy a large cork board and fix it over out building table ? or is there something commercially available ?

2, My brother said that he used to put plastic over his plan ? again, I've not a clue, please let me know how we build on top of the plan

sorry to be a bit dumb, I'll check out some YouTube videos while perhaps anyone wants to reply to this thread

many thanks

Paul J

[Stephen Belshaw]

Plasterboard makes a good building board, takes pins, flat and true and cheap as chips. I buy it in 2M x 600mm size.

I have bought the "plan protector" stuff from SLEC and Sarik, very cheap.

[Paul Jones 1]

thank you sir, great advice

[kc]

Plasterboard is great for building. Plans can be covered in any thin polythene sheet even opened out clear plastic bags which can be overlapped if they are not large enough.

Note that some people have th plans copied and build only on the copy which can be cut up into the various sections   -fuselage, wing etc.   You might also copy the plans in sections with an A4 printer and sellotape together.   Fuselage only takes 2 or 3 A4 sheets for moderate size models.

Edited By kc on 01/05/2020 18:53:14

[Paul Jones 1]

thank you, just ordered the SLEC plan protector film, was £6 including postage, so not so bad, enough to build several models I think

[Ronaldo]

Hi Paul. Assuming you have a solid level and true building surface. Either a work bench, table, or even a light plain surface hollow cored door which also makes a good true flat surface, then my choice of pin board is a sheet of plasterboard from any DIY supplier. Cheap, can easily be cut to size using a 'Stanley' type knife, they take pins very well, when one side gets well used, they can be turned over for a fresh clean surface and used again.

As for covering, I've used the clear plastic from the backing of solarfilm and solartex which I have saved over the years, but sadly not in production any longer. Some have recommended cling film, but never tried it myself. I guess any large sheets of plastic sheeting would work if not too thick and lays reasonably flat.

Hope this helps. good luck

[Robin Etherton]

Hi

Rub a candle over the plan. Nothing sticks to it and its cheap.

[John Wagg]

Quite often the plan only shows one wing half (left or right). This can involve turning the plan over and copying the wing through to the other side.

I have just had to do this on my latest build. We do have a large glass table that I have put a bright lamp under. So that, with the plan reversed on top, the light shines through and you can copy through.

This time though I just sellotaped the plan to the patio window and copied through for the other wing side. ( a sunny day helps.)

I have used all sorts of base board which is easy to press pins into. I have also used an old door, bench and currently a picnic table to support the building board.

As mentioned above, I just use some see-though plastic sheet to stop sticking to the plan or sometimes in-between when you have to fabricate the fuselage halves over each other.

[Geoff S]

I've been converted to using a sheet of 1.5mm steel and magnetic building blocks. It really is so much easier than using pins and doesn't fill the plan with holes. Of course you still need a flat surface but there's no need to bother about being able to stick pins in it. I cover the plan with cling film from several odd rolls I've acquired over the years.

I occasionally use pins to hold balsa parts together just as I still use and need various clamps but the magnetic right angled triangular beech blocks hold the main structure.

Geoff