John Wagg

Hot glue worked on mine :-

Photo ? I made one, when I wera lad, from instructions in "Boys Own" magazine. Basically a piece of plywood in boomerang shape. Leading edge rounded and tapered to rear. Each arm opposite foil section. Flew a treat.😊 Do a Google.

Is the sticky vale the exhaust? Possibly a carbon (?) build up.

I haven't come across any "stabilized" FASST receivers. There are stabilisers though that will work with any receiver. A few stabilizer/gyro's that I know of :- FMS Reflex. Hobbyeagle. Radiolink Byme. And possibly others.

13.8v is the standard 12v lead/acid car battery when fully charged.

Insurance ? If there was to be an "incident" then probably the insurance company would not pay-out. In that case the club (committee or organisers) would personally be liable for any claim and would be for hundreds of thousands of pounds. If your description, and what others are saying, the flying could be described as reckless. Especially with loose dogs and seemingly no control on the flightline. The organisers really need to understand that in the case of personal injury, or worse, then they could be liable and end up in court.

I did wonder if very thin 'superglue' would do the job. ? Getting it to seep around the inserts is the requirements without it going to other places.

I have two SC30FS engines. One with good and one with poor compression. Both run fine but the low compression one needs an electric starter to fire it up. Is there a way of proving it is the valve inserts that are the cause? I did wonder if there was something that you could dribble around the inserts or some other method to make them seal.

Not knowing the complete set-up, and presuming the other models are 'elevons', can you copy the settings over from one of the good models. Scrap the model settings that don't work. Another thought, if possible, to try a receiver from one of the good models ?

I made some ply wheels years back. 1/16" (2mm) for the outer discs but I don't remember what I used for the inner. No reason not to use balsa. Neoprene tube for the tire, bonded with superglue as per Cliffs video. Discs cut out using large hole saws. I have also used small toy pram wheels and some are available on Ebay.

http://www.toprchobby.com/Admin/Others/DownloadsPage.aspx?nid=3&id=369&tag=0&ref=prod_view&t=dcb6a19cad14f024 Page 15 of the manual, for one of the typical small models, shows where to connect an S-Bus satellite receiver. What I can't see is the polarity for the connecting plug. The supply to the S-Bus receiver will come through this so has to be right. (Something just come to mind - these planes run off a 1S battery so the Rx has to work down to about 3.5 volts.) The switches for the Gyro and Calibration will need sorting as will the motor kill switch. The Grayson Hobby video above mentions these but not in enough detail for me. We have a variety of similar models in our club and good fun from them. Generally we dispense with the undercarriage. We hand launch in Beginner mode and then switch to Mid mode for general flying. Very twitchy in Expert mode. Landing is done in the long grass so as not to pop-off the prop. I don't bother with the "flip / return" switches. Mine will do a loop anyway if the speed is high enough. I'm the only one who doesn't use the included transmitter for the reasons mentioned above. All the other guys use the Tx that comes in the box.

I have a Volantex 400mm T28 plane working with a Radiomaster TX16S. Initially this worked with just V761 protocol. Now, since updating the Multi-Module, the TOPRC protocol has appeared and the T28 works with that as well. No S-Bus needed and as far as I can see there is no way of fitting an extra S-Bus Rx. I also have OMPHOBBY S720 720mm model and that will also link to my Radiomaster but I was a bit dubious about the range. Now this does have a receiver which will accept a DCM or S-Bus Rx so I fitted a FRSKY R-XSR receiver. Works well. My reason for using the TX16S is I fly Mode 1 and the transmitters that came with both the above models only come in Mode 2 styles. It sounds like the TOPRC models are similar so, if you want to fit an RX that matches your transmitter, there should be something available. I would just point out though that a satellite receiver has to be small enough to fit in the available space. The Radiolink R8SM does look very small. 👍 The next complication is getting matching plugs on the connecting lead between the two receivers.

Query - if the model uses S-Bus then won't any S-Bus receivers work ? It doesn't have to be Futaba. ?

I thought all modern Jumpers / Radiomaster's etc' came with Edge-Tx ?

A finger over the the end of the exhaust while turning the engine over is usually good enough to prime. The back pressure down the exhaust tube to tank should "pump" fuel to the carb'.

Much appreciated Mike. - again.👍 Receiver flashed and code produced. Just need to obtain the activation code now. Thankyou. John

I have just received a new FRSKY "X6R" receiver but it is on FCC firmware. Really it should be on EU/LBT so I might as well convert it to "UNI" firmware. Any chance some one could verify which 'frk' file is currently the up to date one. My understanding is it is - uni_X8R_v80.frk (Info' says to use the X8R is for the X6R.) Thanks in advance. John

Roll control - pin 1. = Aileron servo or rudder servo Pitch control - pin 2 = Elevator servo. ESC (power) - pin 3 = Throttle Yaw control - pin 4 = Rudder servo. (Not if plugged into pin 1.) S.Bus input - pin 5. Radiolink PDF :- https://radiolink.com.cn/doce/UploadFile/ProductFile/BymeAManual.pdf If using a non-Radiolink Tx :- - A switch will need programming to select whether you want stabilisation in or out. - The Byme-A will need its attitude calibration setting. Explained at the end of the PDF. As mentioned above there was quite a discussion in the previous thread. Personally I've no idea how the model will be affected. Mainly because rudder will cause yaw before the "roll" is initiated. Be fun to find out. 👀 😉

P.S. To late for an edit. - The side roundels I cheated and bought stick on ones from Ebay. The rudder stripes I did paint but they were easy.

Sorry, I haven't done Solarfilm roundels but have done stars. Probably a lot easier but did use heat and an iron. On my Morane I painted the roundels following Cliff Harvey's method :- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lnVcT90G2ls I didn't have Frog tape so used electricians tape cut into strips. I used acrylic paints from a local shop which are quite cheap but did a good job. https://www.theworks.co.uk/p/acrylic-paint/crawford-and-black-yellow-acrylic-paint-200ml/5052089334250.html (Other makes available but not sure about availability in France.)

Could you make some out of Solarfilm ? Yellow and Blue circles. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Roundel_of_Ukraine.svg

I bought my acrylic paints from the Works shop. I thought very economical :- https://www.theworks.co.uk/p/acrylic-paint/crawford-and-black-white-acrylic-paint-200ml/5052089333475.html

I don't know if this helps :- I used red, white and blue acrylics for the wing roundels and rudder stripes on silver Oratex. The red on the body is aerosol car spray paint. This I again used red aerosol car spray paint from the local car accessory shop. On natural Oratex. I think Oratex is fuel proof but the painted parts won't be.

On my Radiomaster there is a Throttle trim setting which alters the way the trim functions. Basically it allows the trimming of the throttle but doesn't alter the fully open end point. Go into model set up (MDL button) 1st screen - scroll down and press "Throttle" box. Source = 'Thr'. Trim idle only = On Trim switch = 'Thr' Now when operating the trim there is no "Trim Centre" voice. You will still get the max' and min' voice. I also think I had a similar function on my Taranis and is probably on other makes as well