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Which Airbrush and Compressor


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I would re-iterate what Doc Marten says: it's a big subject demanding a fair amount of research.

For the record, and not because I am an expert at spray painting, for my S6b, I used a FastMover mini HVLP spray gun (left below) for the priming coats and a Sata minijet 4400 B HVLP gun (right below) for the KlassKote colour coats. I also used an Airmaster 50 L compressor.

myairguns_april2020.jpg

The FastMover is very good value and does an adequate job. The Sata is a "Rolls Royce" that does a superb job, but is about ten times more expensive. The FastMover is a cheap imitation of the Sata and other high end makes such as Iwata. MyFastMover already needs a sealing washer replaced after only about half a dozen uses - you get what you pay for.

I agree that finishing a plane requires a lot of patience, but all the patience and tedium is in the endless sanding and preparation. Whereas the spraying of paints is actually very quick and rather easy - almost nerve-rackingly so. Typically it takes less than five minutes to spray on about 120 mL of paint, which is the typical amount I do in one go.

One thing that does have to be done slowly and carefully is the masking off of everything you don't want painted - including (in my case) the outside of my house, because I do the spraying out of doors behind a buttress in the walls. Another thing that takes longer than the spraying itself is the thorough cleaning of the spray gun afterwards, which is important if you have invested in an expensive one!

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Best advice I was given years ago was to buy a compressor with the biggest CFM output that you can afford / have room for. There is nothing worse than half through a job having to stop and wait for the pressure to recover.

All the other advice is relevant and a bit of research is important.

For general spraying of models and small bits I use a gravity fed car touch up gun. This will spray primers ,cellulose and acrylic base coats and clear coat. With water based paint taking over it advisable to buy a gun that is water based paint compatible ie stainless steel parts that don't rust.

For detailing I have an Aerograph air brush . I acquired a Clarke airbrush but can best describe it rubbish. So buy carefully or buy twice.

Good luck and keep us updated.

Edited By Engine Doctor on 08/07/2020 14:32:22

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Phil, it was onto a glasscloth/PolyC base, primer rubbed right back, then a couple of coats of Solarlac. I sold it on to a club member a couple of years ago and I still see it up the field now and then.

I would give serious thought to using water based paints now, sprayed Solarlac gets everywhere, needs to be thinned just so depending on the weather on the day and is hell to clean up, not to mention the nasty fumes! On the positive side it is completely fuel proof for the 5% fuel I used and matches (matched?) the film colours.

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Posted by Phil B on 08/07/2020 16:20:43:

Bob, did the Solarlac spray over grey primer onto the original covering film? What prep is needed first?

Solarlac will spray onto Solarfilm but you really need to prep the film with Solarlac Prymol to give proper adhesion . work well on Lightspan etc.

Beware Prymol doesn't work very well with polyester based film coverings like HK or Pro-film . Anything else like glassed surfaces then a primer is a wise move but go lightly as primer is heavy. Rub down and only leave the thinnest lightest coat. Having said all of that Solarlac is dissapearing fast and there are plenty of other paints available . If its a hard to get colour then a trip to a car paint factor can mix something up for you in water based , polyester or cellulose

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