ROBERT SWAN Posted October 29, 2008 Share Posted October 29, 2008 Has anyone got any hints and tips for making WW2 a/c more realistic?I love to make mine look as though it has done some pretty hairy missions! Mind you with my flying it`s not difficult! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernie Posted October 30, 2008 Share Posted October 30, 2008 Hi RobertI agree totally about the hairy missions bit, There is nothing worse than an immaculate shiny warbird. I read that the cockpit of Von Richthofen's Triplane was held together with string and tape, so much so that other flyers refused to take it aloft.I think the first thing is to have a close look at pictures of a war weary veteran..Often all examples of a particular aircraft would stain in a similar way. For example the fokker E111 always seems to have an oil stain on the fabric below the cockpit. A very simple method of 'dirtying up' is to use graphite powder ( you can file this from a soft pencil) and rub it with a fingertip into the airframe where dirt is needed. Also artists suppliers sell coloured chalk 'conte crayons' spring to mind. these can be used where colour is required. If a gloss stain(eg for oil) is required, then oil colours can be used. Patches can also be added to simulate repairs. Finally, I understand that in WW1, cannibalisation (of the aircraft that is) was common. I had a fokker DV11 that had a top wing with one colour scheme, and one aileron with an other. Liked that!ernie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROBERT SWAN Posted October 31, 2008 Author Share Posted October 31, 2008 Thanks ErnieI do have lots of old books and pictures I`ll use them. The use of the crayons sounds good- I have not tried that one yet. One of the things I do with WW2 warbirds is to spray the whole thing with silver paint (not too thick) and then spray the normal colours over this and very carefully rub, with wet & dry, the areas that would be worn, it works a treat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernie Posted October 31, 2008 Share Posted October 31, 2008 Hi Robert, Really like the silver bit, There is yet another issue...Distance perspective........if you look at a full size, to see the whole thing, you need to be quite a distance away...To see the whole model you need to be pretty close. Because there is dust and dirt in the air, the colours on the full size seem to be slightly muted, so it might be worth giving the whole finished model a VERY light sprayed mist of light greyernie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROBERT SWAN Posted October 31, 2008 Author Share Posted October 31, 2008 Dear Enie,What a great idea, I have a WW2 FU4 Corsair almost done I will try that. You are right- if you look at colour photo`s of A/C it has just that "haziness".Thanks again Ernie, keep in touch.Regards Robbie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walts Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 I also tend to spray the silver base coat first. If weight is an issue I just spray where I know I'll be exposing it again. Apart from rubbing with W & D to represent scuffs, I also use the edge of a scapel blade to chip off chunks around leading edges and spinners to represent stone chips. Another thing I do that gives that dulled look you mention is to add a 'wash over the whole model once all else is done. this is a dirty solution of white spirit with just a brush full of blacks browns and blues added depending on what effect you are looking for. the solution looks just like old brush cleaner. It is applied to the model with a soft rag working in the direction of the air flow over the model. As the spirit evaporates the effect will become apparent. If you don't like it, or feel it's over done, just wipe it off with a clean rag soaked in white spirit and start again. It really looks good on models with detail, like inset panel lines or raised hatches etc. as it catches in these and leaves dirty streaks behind them much the same as a full size dirty warbird.Walts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernie Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 Hi Walts, I've heard about this. Do you use cellulose or acrylic under the white spirit? Also, I assume you can't use a cellulose wipe over enamel, without an almighty eruption.I suppose a big problem with all this is that you need bags of courage to try it.ernie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Walts Posted November 11, 2008 Share Posted November 11, 2008 Hi Ernie, I was rushing the post a bit as dinner was ready But the white spirit wash was just an example. You could use what ever thining medium the paint being used for the wash requires. My last couple of models have been finished in Warbirds colours paint which is water based with an additive to fuel proof it and set the paint. I have used white spirit washes over this with no problem. I've also used white spirit washes over spectrum which is thinners based i believe? I've heard of guy's using WBC's paint to do the wash as well...........which would obviously be thinned in water, but I haven't tried this one as i thought it would be too weak to leave any residue. I think I'd be worried about using a thinners based wash in case it caused problems with the underlying paint??? But I suppose the order of the day is to test on a mock up first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winchweight Posted November 12, 2008 Share Posted November 12, 2008 Scale model makers often use the salt chip method to get scratches and chips. They spray the model silver first. Once properly dry they wet the area to be weathered with water and sprinkle rock salt crystals on. Then they paint the next coats once the rock salt is dry. When all is done, they scrape the rock salt off again and this exposes the silver below is an eye pleasing manner.Also pastel chalks, ground up and brushed on work well. But you do have to seal everything with matt varnish or it will rub off.Very watered down acrylic paints, or even inks, can be washed over panel lines etc, and the excess rubbed off whilst wet with tissue or cotton buds leaving the wash in recesses etc.Light coats of black / brown with an airbrush for exhaust or gun residue. Light coats of Tamiya "Buff" over everything gives a muted, faded effect yet allows the detail to remain.Just a few thoughts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROBERT SWAN Posted November 13, 2008 Author Share Posted November 13, 2008 Wow,I did not think that my question would provoke such a detailed responce- thank you to everyone. I will go back to the Corsair with the thinners etc.. I am busy cleaning some "PARKZONE" aircraft to sell on sunday in Romsey at a bring & buy sale. I am selling them having satisfied myself that electric is the future for me as arthritus is slowing me down somewhat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The real Ron Truth Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 oil pastels are cheap and effective for gun ports, stains , footholds etccandle soot for flame areasboot polish for general engine grime. be adventurous!! go for it. Just remember to seal it all in with a fuel proofer! Just realised your only 10 miles from me over in Romsey... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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