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Fw Ta 152


david tilbury
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New elevators finished, much happier with these as the the pair are 25g lighter....smiley1.gif...and the shape is better....it was more about the balance part of the elevator and how it curved into the recess in the tailplane...

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Edited by david tilbury
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Good observation on the curve there David.   Might just go check on mine; though they are done and dusted with stitches and pinked tape, so won’t be starting them over.  What covering material are you using. I used some Oratex but wasn’t convinced it is as light as some other options might have  been.

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Supercharger finished......had to make 2 as the first was a tad on the big side.....always a problem when you don't have drawings to work from and you are eyeballing photos.

 
Anyway needs a couple of coats of primer and then welds adding....
 
Anyone building a 1:4.5 or 1:4 the larger one might work for you....

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Edited by david tilbury
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Glad you posted this Dave as I am interested in how you plan to operate the rudder. When I constructed mine I looked at/measured the fin post and rudder leading edge (22mm) and considered it too narrow for a reliable hidden closed loop to operate. So I fitted a small external horn and minimalistic shrouds for the exiting pull pull wires. I note however, unsurprisingly  for F4C this will loose static points. Have you hidden a closed loop for rudder actuation before with such a narrow distance between the wire attachment points?

 

Tape on the elevators and rudder looks great.

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Hi Nick,

 

I've hidden the closed loop, no externals.....did this both my A8 and D9....seem to have enough rudder with the tailwheel on the ground for turning etc.

I don't use rudder in flight at all......landings/take offs fine with internal as well.......hope that helps.....can post a picture if you want?

 

cheers

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Great. Thanks very much David, good to know such a narrow attachment works ok. No photo needed as I can easily redo my arrangement to hide it. On the job list for tomorrow. 
Old habits die hard for me from my large sailplane days, so I still use a little coordinating of rudder with aileron when commencing turns, unless at full chat. 

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On 06/03/2023 at 14:05, Jon - Laser Engines said:

I think the cheating comment was aimed at me. I caused upset on another thread by suggesting some would rather cheat their way round a problem rather than take the time to learn a skill to get around the same problem. The over use of technical aids was part of the debate as they can be used to mask lacklustre flying skills.

 

However using these technical tools to create something is not cheating. You have to do the research, learn the tools, use the tools to create the models etc so where is the problem? 

 

Not to reopen the debate, but I think a lot of people agreed with you. It is important to learn to fly a RC plane and develop the necessary muscle memory to twiddle the sticks in response to changes in the plane. Things like gyros hamper the learning process. Once you have learnt, of course, it it different- some full-size as well as model planes would be unflyable without computers or gyros.Even the humble Stuka had some sort of aid to help pull it out of a dive all those years ago, I believe.

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Completed the CAD this morning for the rudder light housing.....just a few more parts to build before i can start the print, probably next week...
 
So moved onto the block pattern for the rear of the canopy......again looking at the photos i have i made some small changes to the clear vac form of the canopy i have, i'll probably remove the rear section from the clear vac and
glue somehow together the middle section.....made the pattern from some light model lab board that i have left over from my working days.

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Edited by david tilbury
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I love the idea of saving weight, a phone call the other day to John Carpenter about wing tubes has now saved over half the weight of them by switching to carbon.....ok there's a price but the combined ali tubes were nearly 400g now they weigh 120g....in hindsight, probably i should have built the wing as a 2 piece rather than 3 but the 2 piece would have presented it's own problems.....a one piece at 114" is a no go.....

 
Trimmed the rear canopy deck which looks fine.....also talked to my local model shop about laser cutting the flap ribs from 2mm light ply but that seems a problem, doesn't cut well so will make them by hand....something to do with the resin the plys made from....you laser cutters will know.
 
Have a good weekend

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Edited by david tilbury
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3 hours ago, david tilbury said:

also talked to my local model shop about laser cutting the flap ribs from 2mm light ply but that seems a problem, doesn't cut well so will make them by hand....something to do with the resin the plys made from....you laser cutters will know.

Not too sure what they are on about, I cut a dozen of these for my daughter (she's going to make them into earrings as part of her Handmade Florist business!). They are laser cut from 1.6mm ply, and before anyone asks, no, I didn't cut my finger whilst doing them, that was a rather nasty prop strike!!!!!

 

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Edited by Ron Gray
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Thanks Ron....in the end i went for CNC cut as i want a good glue edge.....Slec did a great price.

 

Ailerons today......used the first laser cut outers as my guide to get the ribs the correct shape......sandwich the 2 ply sides to the exiting balsa ribs and clamped then inserted ribs to fit.....needed about 5 over the distance to get an idea of the shapes, then cut them all apart from the first rib in balsa.....this way i got the washout correct as well.....now will glue the sandwich/ribs together with white glue......also made a cut for the horn which is more or less in the middle of the aileron and sticks below the surface unlike the Fw 190 series.

 
Once dry i'll shape the waste sticking out of the sandwich and cap with 3/16 balsa.......the wing tip end will need some extra work doing to it.....
 
Also as far as i can tell there are no external trim tabs like the Fw 190....as it has a more conventional internal type 
 
some extra photos as well below

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Edited by david tilbury
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Ailerons finished, scale hinge points......need to make the horns now.....cut the wing as well today and lined with 1/4 balsa sheet, my internal hinge blocks will go against this, worked out the pivot point for the hinge......works well

giving me the 3/4" movement required.

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Edited by david tilbury
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Some more on the aileron installation.

 
Ali tube extensions are required to give more support to the robart hinge.....have done this on another plane without any problems......the tube in the wing will be blocked in to give strength.
 
2mm light ply caps top and bottom....the top one has a 1/32" ply shroud.....to make the rebate i made a simple jig on my bench drill.....set the milling cutter to depth and passed the light ply along the 2mm guide.....a top piece is just taped over the edge so it can't lift while passing
 
Everything now lines up....also had a grey matter debate on the shape of the wing tip......seen about 3 versions but i feel the one i have is pretty close to a photo i found......under a large magnifying glass....smiley36.gifsmiley36.gifsmiley36.gif
 
Now complete the other to the same stage....

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Edited by david tilbury
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So went for a mini metal geared servo for the ailerons.....installed the servo mount.....needed some minor trimming of the webbing sheet on the wing spar but nothing to be worried about....
 
Once i've got the flap ribs and completed them i can close the underside with 1/8" balsa.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks Martian.....:-)

 

Up-date......outer panels covered.....shaped and sanded leading edge.....all looks ok...servo bays for the outer flaps nearly complete......wing tips need adding...

 
On another thread big discussion on how to install 4 servos on the individual flaps.....won't go on here about it...but all interesting ideas....
 
By the way using my X20 Frsky on this one....lots to play with on the servo setup side and a dual band receiver.....900 and 2.4 combined...
 
The total weight of the wooden parts so far just under 12lbs.....still the wing fairings to do and some sheeting on the center panel but very pleased with that

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Edited by david tilbury
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Looking very good indeed, David. I guess if you have plenty of channels available on your receiver and transmitter then its just a matter of individually fine tuning each flap servo. For my Sea Fury I had just 9 channels available on my old DX9,  so used just one for all 4 flap servos through a JR Matchbox. Takes a bit of fiddling to get them all synchronised and reminded me of adjusting servo travel on my old Fleet radio gear a rather long time ago.

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