Warbirds Replicas Focke-Wulf 190 Build Log

[Gordon McConnell]

Eric Robson and DaveB1 have already posted their excellent build experience of the Warbirds FW190 kit. I wondered whether it was worthwhile posting my build especially as Eric has built and flown his model in a record time! I figured that may be it is worth the effort if only to give another perspective to this Warbirds kit. 

I received my kit from Richard Wells before Christmas. Iwas just starting another Warbirds kit, a Hawker Hurricane but decided to pause that one to be able to join the winter build group of the FW190. 

 

Richard has designed this kit to try to encourage modellers to get into building their own model rather than buy a foam ARTF warbird. The model design is simple, easy to construct with no special skill required. It is hand launched and designed to have a realistic flight performance.

 

Opening the box reveals a well packed and comprehensive set of parts in this kit including laser cut ply and balsa parts, a set of veneered foam wings, a bundle of additional balsa strip and sheet needed to complete the model, ABS moulded cowling, clear canopy and a hardware pack. The laser cut parts are excellent quality as are the other components. 

A simple but useful plan is included however no instructions are provided other than a sheet identifying the laser cut parts. The build logs on this forum are therefore important to advise the less experienced modellers (like me) on the sequence of assembly. 

I set about identifying and marking all the parts from the information sheet to avoid getting confused later on.

 

 

[Gordon McConnell]

The first step was to bond the ply reinforcing onto the balsa fuselage sides, remembering to make a left and right pair and carefully aligning the doublers onto the fuselage sides, I used PVA but contact adhesive would be just as good.

 

[Gordon McConnell]

I then did a trial fit of the sides to the fuselage crutch and F1 and F2 formers to check the alignment. I had to slightly ease the vertical slots in the F1 and  F2 with a file to get an easy but tight fit of the fuselages sides through the slots. 

[Gordon McConnell]

Once happy with the fit, I dismantled the dry run and I glued the rear fuselage side doublers onto the fuselage sides with PVA.

 

[Gordon McConnell]

I then laid out all the parts to start assembling the fuselage. 

 

 

[Gordon McConnell]

The fuselage assembly is really self  jigging and a build jig is not necessary. However, I decided to be cautious and set up my jig to ensure the alignment of the fuselage and be on the safe side. It really was not necessary as the laser cut parts are so accurate that provided the F2 former is set at 90 deg to the fuselage crutch top surface datum and the side panels are aligned with it as well, it goes together very easily. I used PVA again for the joints. Plenty of clamps to hold it aligned while the glue dries. I did not glue on the F1 former just yet.

 

 

 

[Gordon McConnell]

After the glue had dried, I removed all the clamps and carefully aligned the F1 former to ensure it was parallel to the F2 in all axis. I then glued it in place on the fuselage sides.

 

The fuselage top sheeting need to have a small 10mm strip added to make up a small deficit in the canopy area. See Erics and Dave Bs posts to explain why it is necessary. I used some scrap material from the fuselage top sheeting. You can see them in the photo below.

 

I glued the formers F4  etc on the top of crutch making sure the they were at 90 deg to the crutch i.e. vertical. Once that was dry I check fitted the fuselage top sheets and did some slight trimming around the F3/4 former to ensure a good fit. PVA was again used and the whole lot pinned to ensure good joints. I added some small 1/8 balsa strips on the crutch to locate the top panels in alignment with the fuselage sides (see photo below).

 

 

I pinned on the top side panels and then added to aft spine on top allowed good time for the glue to set before removing them. 

 

 

 

Edited December 30, 2023 by Gordon McConnell

[Gordon McConnell]

Next was to add the stringers between F1 and F2 and trim them to length.  I also decided to add a reinforcing plate on the forward face of F2 in the area of the wing attachment dowel. Probably not necessary but just to be sure as it is a high load area. The F2 bottom reinforcing is then glued on top. The dowel hole is drilled through from F2. Note: the dowel is not glued in, only loosely in place to trial fit!!

 

 

 

[Gordon McConnell]

I have been quiet for some time due to the holidays and assembling a Clik21 for indoor flying. I am slowly getting back to the FW190 build. Ron Gray has started to post an excellent video series on the construction and has already overtaken me! I recommend everyone to follow the videos which are much more helpful than photos. I will continue to post some photos if only to have a record and perhaps show some areas where I got it wrong or could have done a better job. That may help some others avoid the same mistakes!

 

Well, the first mistake was to omit former F5 when I assembled the fuselage sides! This is a very important former as it supports the wing trailing edge nut plate to attach the wing. Fortunately, I could easily deflect the side panels to fit it afterwards. I used epoxy to get the strongest joint here as the loading is potentially high in a less than perfect landing, etc.

 

Having not installed the captive nut in the wing nut plate, I will pull this in with a bolt later. It would be easier to fit it before gluing in the nut plate.

 

 

[Gordon McConnell]

I then installed the balsa stringers and bottom plate between F1 and F2. I did initial shaping of the bottom plate to support the front cowl. 

I trimmed the ABS front cowl to shape. I found the easiest way to do this was to mark a pencil line around the cowl, taking care to have it parallel to the cowl lip. I supported my pencil at the correct height with some scrap ply offcuts and rotated the cowl around on the flat surface of my work bench. I then used a razor saw to carefully cut along the line and sanded the cut edge to remove any burrs from the saw.

 

 

[Steve Fox]

Hi there, just wondering how the build is going 

Cheers Steve NZ 

[Gordon McConnell]

Hi Steve, work has got in the way the last fortnight. Good news is that I have made some progress in the last few days.  

[Gordon McConnell]

I cut the propeller hole in the cowling using a set of compasses with a small blade. I cant remember the make of this tool but it is specifically for modelling and works a treat. Later on I realised I needed to make the hole bit bigger!  After some fettling of the nose cowl to get a good fit, I glued the nose cowl onto the plywood nose support. I used ZAP Plasti-zap with accelerator and clamped it carefully and let it set. It worked out well.

 

 

Edited January 30 by Gordon McConnell

[Gordon McConnell]

While that was drying, I turned my attention to the motor mounting. I am using a 4 Max 3547-800 motor. I carefully centred the motor mount on the motor mount plate and marked the four mounting holes and drilled them out to size. I have never tried to cut down a motor shaft before but Ron Gray's video post convinced me to have a try even although he did not show how he had done it!  I used a cutting disc on my Dremel and it was so much easier that I had anticipated. Thanks Ron.

I bolted on the motor using cap head bolts and stiff-nuts. Later on I decided to replace the stiff-nuts with captive nuts to make it easier to unbolt the motor for maintenance, if necessary.

 

[Gordon McConnell]

Next up was adding some balsa blocks on the aft face of F1 to attach the motor mounting. I had checked the needed position of the propeller flange relative to the cowling to give around 5mm clearance between the APC 12x6 propeller trailing edge and the cowl front lip and the cowl front lip. I then epoxied  in the motor mount at the correct height location to achieve the thrust line on the plan. I found that the top edge of the mount plate aligned perfectly with the top edge of the fuselage side panel. I also epoxied a balsa block behind the motor mounting plate. 

I did this before fitting the wrap around ply for the aft cowling as access is much easier at that stage. The photo shows the mounting after the ply wrap around was fitted.

[Gordon McConnell]

I checked the battery fitting inside the cowling. I may use an Overlander 4S 3900mAh battery and this just fitted and allowed the hatch to be closed.

[Gordon McConnell]

After a bit of trial fit and trimming, I glued the aft cowl ply onto the stringers and bottom plate. I held it all together with elastic bands and clips until it was set. I used PVA wood glue. 

When it was dry, I trial fitted the nose cowl. The wrap around ply on the aft cowl needed to be trimmed back flush with the forward face of F1. When that was done, the front cowl was a good fit to the aft cowl with almost perfect alignment. 

[Gordon McConnell]

That was when I realised that I had made a mistake in trimming the ABS battery access cover at the front end. It should come right up to the forward cowling aft edge with no gap. Guess who cut it back to the rear face of F1?

You can see that I glued in a little strip of plasticard on top of F1 to fill the gap. 

I have trimmed the top gun cover moulding to fit but I am going to leave it until later to glue it in place. 

 

[Gordon McConnell]

Some other little job. As others have done, I added some scrap balsa support to the cockpit sides where they splay out to join F2. 

 

Like wise, I also added a balsa top deck over the aft of the cockpit area to better support the cockpit side panels. I think this was faired in on the original aircraft.

I will add a pilot and instrument panel later before finishing the model.

 

[Gordon McConnell]

I decided to start the wing build as I will need the assembled wing to attach to the fuselage to be able to install the wing root fairing. Anyhow, a change is as good as a rest from the fuselage!

I bonded on the LE balsa strip, the wing tip block and the aileron cut out facing and held them in place with masking tape.

 

I used Gorilla Brown adhesive as it is friendly with foam. I was bit generous with the adhesive as the foam was not so smooth from my cutting efforts. This adhesive foams on contact with moisture during cure so it fills any voids in the bond line. It also oozes out of the joint! You can see the result. Fortunately, it come of easily with a knife and sands down smooth. 

 

Moral of the story: a little goes a long way! 

[Gordon McConnell]

I sanded the wing LE and tip to shape. Its probably the job I dislike the most but the result is always satisfying in the end! The wing tips are always the most difficult but it is a case of taking ones time and removing small amounts with checks all the time on the shape. I use a razor plane initially and then a Permagrit block followed by fine grade sandpaper.

[Gordon McConnell]

Next job was one I was looking forward to completing. After marking out the position of the servo boxes, I carefully cut the veneer and pealed it off to expose the foam. 

Ron Gray posted a great tip to remove the foam which is difficult to dig out with a knife. Ron uses an electric soldering gun with a loop of piano wire as a tip. I tried this for the first time and it was so easy! Melting out the slot for the servo cable was just one pass with the wire tip. Well worth the investment in a cheap soldering gun as I have a Warbirds Hurricane with a similar foam wing to build next. 😀 Thanks Ron.

 

 I bonded in the ply servo box and frame with Gorilla glue.

[Ron Gray]

I carry out the initial cuts of the wing tips with a floor board saw, gets rid of the majority of waste in a couple of minutes!

[Gordon McConnell]

Ron, I do have a floor board saw somewhere but I was too lazy to go and find it!!

[Gordon McConnell]

Slow progress over the last few weeks. I have completed the wing root fairings and filled and sanded them to shape. Also, I have attached the wing servos on their mounting plates with hardwood blocks and small wood screws. The servo wiring has been run in the slot cut in the lower wing surface. I have filled in the slot with some balsa strip as I think that is structurally more sound than leaving it open. The downside is that I would need to cut into it again if I ever have to replace the wiring. Servo replacement is possible as I have made a plug joint in the servo bay cavity.