John Sheehy Posted January 3, 2009 Share Posted January 3, 2009 Hi all,I've just bought a Twinstar 2 and I've tried painting it with Pelican Plaka waterbased paint. When I tried to mask it to create my planned scheme I found the paint came off with the masking tape. Someone suggested that a releasing agent might have been used in the moulding process. Any ideas? If I start sanding it down I can see a heap of trouble with missed bits and such. Also it might affect the strength of the plane. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 JohnI have used "Rotring" ink and "FW" acrylic artists ink on Depron with no trouble. Although I tend to loose mask and i tend to not mind soft edges, sometime I will lift the mask to get a feather edge.I do have some Pelikan "Plaka", the problem with it, is that it requires a lot of thinning, to spray. I should say i tend to airbrush or spray.Felt tips seem to work well on depron, for thin lines etc.I think the only thing to be wary of are solvents (other than water). I recently bought some cavity closer, which was "Blue Foam" the Dupont stuff. The fabricators seemed to have used impact adhesive to attach the fastenings to the foam. So I used some Evo-stick for my modelling purposes with the of cuts. It just melted. Seems they (manufactures) used hot glue.Erfolg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Sheehy Posted January 5, 2009 Author Share Posted January 5, 2009 Hi Erfolg, I think acrylic is my choice for the next elapor project. I don't know if depron is similar to elapor but the message seems to be to try it on a spare piece first. As there is no undercarrage on the Twinstar I don't think the colour scheme will stay pristine for long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Lewzey Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 I used acrylics from an art shop for my funjet. If the paint job is a mess, my advice would be to lightly sand down and re paint. i found that watering the paint down slightly made it go further and two coats gave a good finish. Lines onto other surfaces weren't a problem, the watered down paint held the line perfectly without masking. i brushed the paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Sheehy Posted January 6, 2009 Author Share Posted January 6, 2009 Too late now but I'll certainly use acrylic next time.Thanks everyone for your input.John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 JonathanI to have used art shop paints in tubes. Namely, Windsor & Newton , and Rowney, all amateur grade, thinned down with water for spraying.However the liquid form and inks are far more conveinant, and sucess is assured, as they need no modification, to use.Although artists think there paints are expensive, compared to modelling paints they are cheap. Secondly artists are very demanding with regard to quality, so amateur paints are probably of higher quality than most model market paints. The only debatable issue is that these paints are intended for use on, canvas, artists paper, art boards and treated wood substrates. In practice they work fine on most surfaces that we use, particularly when prepared. That is, wood filled and smoothed, plastic type surfaces keyed.Erfolg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralph Yeates Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 I use wicks house hold paint not that good tends to lift a bit but at £5 for half a litre cheap as chips and when it's high in the sky I can see it clearly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 RalphI am sure that there is nothing wrong per say with household paints, particularly for houses.For light weight foam models there may be a few issues. The first is that they tend to weigh quite a bit, so may need to be thinned a lot. The second is that, the base may contain solvents which attack the foam (or this weeks favourite word, substrate), particularly if a solvent thinner is used.Art paints are generally produced to very high standards, having been ground to very fine particulate size, also as they do not need to withstand the vagories of the outside weather, they do not contain additional materials to resist heat/cold and rain or fillers. The colour fastness of art paints can be very good also. Covering power is also quite good in the opague inks. The use of traslucent inks is often used to produce the interesting effects seen on both models and art work, so to can be useful.For our use liquid art paints and inks can be very useful.As an aside, I use emulsion as a base on canvass and board, instead of art primer, as it works well and is substantiolly cheaper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Lewzey Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 I was advised to use acrylics on another thread. I used the paints i did because they were what was in the cupboard at the time. Soon i will be investing in an airbrush fro my fw190 and zero so i shall shop around for paints a bit more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Claridge Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 john after painting your twin star cut up a two litre coke bottle and use half of it to fit the underbelly of the plane idid this and the plane did a take of from rough tarmac in 15feet much to my surprise the bottle side was held on with sellotape and lasted till the planes death dive six months later regards phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Sheehy Posted January 7, 2009 Author Share Posted January 7, 2009 Great Idea Phil, I've been looking for a tape that wouldn't look too bad but that sounds perfect. I'm also going to change props from 8/4 to 7/5 (I've gone brushless), so ROG will be a real possibility.Thanks for the tip.John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Lloyd Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 I've just used Johnstones Quick-Drying Satin (It's acrylic) - intended for wood and metal - on an EPP model (similar to elapor). I rubbed down first with a 'between coats' sanding pad to remove the release agent, and it seems to have taken very well. It's a cheap Windrider Fox glider, and I wanted to hide the internal gubbins I could see when the model is backlit. I brushed it on - and it doesn't look like I applied it with a broom! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 I was just thinking about, non art paints and wondered if any one has tried any of the "quick pot" type paint samplers. These are cheap, come in a wide variety of colours. Although they are described as emulsion paints, it tells us little beyond they are water solubile. Typically there will be fillers to provide thickness, binder to hold things together, solvent, in this case water, additives to aid flow and the all important pigment.Although cheaper than the art shop acrylics, I guess they will weigh more. I would think there still could be a place for them.What is your opinion?Erfolg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Lloyd Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 Flying slope gliders, weight is not quite the same issue as it would be for a leccy park model. I think tester pots will be fine - go for it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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