Brian Hardwick Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Thanks for the photos Andy and to both you and Peter for your continuing support! I'm not a big fan of self-tapping screws and I've managed to find a solution that has worked very well indeed - but if anyone else cares to try and follow the same route then you do so at your own risk (see below)!. What I did was to create some captive nuts by the following procedure: with clearance holes already drilled and the engine mount held upside down, I inserted a long (50 mm at least) M3 caphead bolt from underneath then screwed a nut onto its end. Using a flat file as a support, I then lifted the head of the bolt with the end of the file until its head came up against the mount (and the nut was held high up and well away from the mount. I then used a blow-lamp to heat the nut until it glowed red, then removed the heat and gently lowered the bolt until the nut contacted the mount. Removing the file, the bolt was now hanging from the nut which, being hot, gently melted its way down into the under-side surface of the mount. I gave it some assistance by using a pair of pliers to pull the bolt down by its head until the nut was flush with the surface of the mount. The melted plastic effectively glues the nut in place - and hey presto, one captive nut! You have to be darned careful, though, where you're pointing the blow-lamp so as not to set light to the model or anything else in the workshop! Having done all four that way, I had to use a tap in the case of one of the nuts to clear a little bit of melted plastic that had got into the thread of the nut. Thanks for the photos Andy - looks like it must have been quite a wriggle to get the engine out so that you could sand the balsa cowl to shape when you were building her! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Shailer Posted February 27, 2013 Author Share Posted February 27, 2013 Hi Brian, wow! I got exhausted reading how you sorted that out!! but as long as it works thats all that matters, looking at pictures it does look like the engine is in there tight, but when I remove exhaust to get to the self tappers the engine slides in and out easy. Looking forward to seeing some pictures when completed. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 An interesting and unsual method of mounting. Not one that I would use but if it works, fine. My cut outs round the engine tend to be somehwat larger. but then, I am not a very neat modeller. I tend to work on the priniciple, "It looks good at 50 feet in the air!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Hardwick Posted May 14, 2013 Share Posted May 14, 2013 Hello again Andy and Peter, Well, it's taking some time (due to distractions such as frequent short notice trips abroad for work and having the keep the "boss" happy by decorating the hall stairs and landing over Easter - aaaaargh! horrible job!) but, desite all these, I'm much further on in the build now and find I need your advice again. I've built the main fuselage assembly and also the wing - I've just glued the two halves together and added R1c. The location of the aileron servos is not really dealt with on the plan or in the text, but I'm asssuming that each servo slides into the gap between R1c and R2 on each wing and needs some kind of plate adding into which to screw the mounting screws? The text instructs one pretty soon now to add the central sheeting (top and bottom, I assume). But, of course, once this is done the servo bay gets covered up - so, I assume that I need to install the servos now and leave the bottom central sheeting until the very end, just before covering and after I have correctly adjusted adjusted the servo arm positions and throws to ensure that I get the right amount of ailoron movement when I swing from one extreme to the other using the transmitter? If I'm correct about this, doesn't that also mean that, once the model is finished, I'll not be able to make any future adjustments of the servo arms and throws without removing the sheet to break into the servo bay once again? Thanks, as always, to both of you for your encouragement and support. Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Shailer Posted May 14, 2013 Author Share Posted May 14, 2013 Hi Brian, If I remember righty, on the plan Peter only uses one servo that is sat in the middle of the wing, Ive put some pictures on of how mine looks, the servo doesnt need to be corvered as it sits inside the fuss, and cant be seen once the wing is on, hope pics help, this is the underside of the wing. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted May 15, 2013 Share Posted May 15, 2013 Yes, Andy has shown it very well. I use a slightly different mounting system. There is a 1/8" ply plate in the top of the servo bay and then I use Radio Active Sero Mounting Brackets to hold the servo in place. The servo bay is not covered with sheet on the underside of the wing. The servo goes between R-1s. Hope that this solves your problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Hardwick Posted May 16, 2013 Share Posted May 16, 2013 Yes, that's cleared up the mystery very well - thanks again, as always, guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Shailer Posted February 17, 2014 Author Share Posted February 17, 2014 Hi Brian, Any update on your Bootlace?? Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Hardwick Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 Hello Andy, It's coming along very nicely thanks (though very slowly too - bet you thought I'd given up!). Since we had such a good summer last year I put the project on ice during the good weather months. I decided that, during the summer, I would concentrate on finally teaching myself to fly properly, using my E-Flite Apprentice electric powered trainer, so that I wouldn't have to always rely on my son for that!. I'm pleased to report that, with much practice, I succeeded and can now fly the thing reasonably well without mishap. I'm giving myself the target of achieving the same success with my IC-powered Sky-40 trainer (excellent Tony Nijhuis kit that I built a few years ago) this summer! Coming back to Bootlace, I've now completed the main fuselage and wing and am just about to make a start on the upper fuselage, so there's light at the end of the tunnel! I'm determined to finish it before this summer and I'll post some pictures in a few month's time when the job's done. It's taken such a lot of effort, though, that I'll definitely be admiring her on the ground for a good while before I let even my son take to the air with her! Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Shailer Posted February 22, 2014 Author Share Posted February 22, 2014 Well done Brian, keep up the good work, summer is only round the corner!! Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Hardwick Posted June 3, 2014 Share Posted June 3, 2014 Hey Andy - in case you thought that I'd given up again, this is just to let you know that I'm almost there and all that remains now is the covering and finishing. It took me a while to perfect the technique for moulding the canopy out of a lemonade bottle (well, ten bottles or so, so 20 litres of pop went down the drain) but managed it in the end and it looks great. Also, for any others interested, Sigma Signwriting that Peter used for the decals isn't in business any more, but Lee at Pyramid Models did a great job of these for me instead. I'll post some photos as soon as I'm done! Cheers, Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 Yes, sorry. Sigma Sign Writing went many years ago. I hope you didn't have to drink all that pop! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Shailer Posted June 5, 2014 Author Share Posted June 5, 2014 Hi Brian, Hi Peter, Glad to hear that your almost done Brian, cant wait to see some pictures, I took mine up again last week and still get nice comments from people that have not seen her before, on the flight line and when she is in the air! I use Model Markings now for all my decals and writing, very helpful chap, keep up the good work Brian. Andy Edited By Andy Shailer on 05/06/2014 23:25:44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Hardwick Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 Hello Peter, All ready to start covering - one final question. I'm attempting to duplicate your colour scheme because I really like it. You say in the article that the white and red colours were both from Solarfilm, while the yellow and black is from Solartrim. My inclination would have been to cover the whole model in white Solarfilm first, then to do all of the other colours, including the red out of Solartrim stuck on top of the Solarfilm, so that I can create nice straight lines. If I try to do, say, the fuselage half in white and half in red Solarfilm then I'm not sure how to get that lovely straight line along the interface between the two (even if I do the whole fuselage white then try to apply a red layer of Solarfilm over the top of it, it'll be still hard to get the straight line won't it - anyway, I'm not sure that two layers of Solarfilm work do they?). Any help you can offer will be much appreciated. Thanks, Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 It is not too hard to get a straight line when ironing Solarfilm to Solarfilm. I do prefer Supershrink Polyester myself. The secret is to use a low temperature on your iron and do not use a heat gun. Initial ironing down is done at the lowest temperature that will stick the film down. Then go over it a slightly higher temperature. THis is a knack. Should you be unfortunate enough to get a wavy line a narrow contrasting cheat line between the two colours works well. On the wing it is not a problem because you have the trim colours to cover any wandering.Actually if you look very carefully at the trim n the wings the lines are not as perfect as they should be. Anyway, following the above advice, give it a go. It is only by trying these things that you will develope the techniques needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Hardwick Posted June 20, 2014 Share Posted June 20, 2014 Thanks for the tips Peter, I'll have a go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Hardwick Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 Hello Peter and Andy, Well, finally, I finished the build! It only took me two years! As well as the image below, I have created a photo album of the same name that you can have a look at. I have to say that I am truly delighted with the result of my labours - it looks even better "in the flesh" than it did in the photos in the original article all those years ago! I would like to thank first Peter for designing such a beautiful aeroplane (if ever a plane could be described as "sexy" this is it) and both Peter and Andy for all of the invaluable support offered during the build. Seriously, Andy, if it hadn't been for your regular words of encouragement I'm not sure that I'd have got to the end, so thanks again. As I have put so many man-hours into the build, I'm sorry to say that for a year or so at least, she's going to remain strictly ornamental. Maybe next season, I'll join a local club or something and get an experienced flyer to take her up for me. Out of interest, whereabouts are you located Andy? If it's close enough to Manchester, maybe I'll come and watch you fly yours first! Anyway, thanks again to both of you. Best wishes, Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted July 30, 2014 Share Posted July 30, 2014 Well done Brian. You have done a really nice job on her. You did a nice job on the colour scheme. I hope that you can get her test flown soon. Have fun. Just realised. THis is my 5000th post! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Shailer Posted July 30, 2014 Author Share Posted July 30, 2014 Brian, that looks absolutely fantastic, brilliant and very well done, Bootlace is great plane to fly, I will pm you as I have family very near Manchester. Right that's Bootlace finished so what's next Brian!! Keep up the good work Sir Peter Miller. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Shailer Posted August 7, 2014 Author Share Posted August 7, 2014 Hi Brian, I've sent you a pm, hopefully speak soon. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Peacock 2 Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Hi, everybody. may i take this opportunity to put my ten pennorth in? The Bootlace was never intended to be a replica of any real aircraft. It was my attempt, (and the text with the plan explains this), to produce a beginners trainer, a la D.B., but one that didn't actually "look" like a trainer, and immediately brand you as a novice, when you walked into the field with it. The plan was, (as were most of my so called "designs" simply drawn on the back of someone else's succesful plan. This one was drawn on the back of a D.B. design, kitted by Peter Gardener of Aviette kits, called the Senator. All the major dimensions, and angles, remained unchanged, but the outline was altered to credate a more advanced appearance, similar to many of the racing planes of the period. (I.E. definitely NOT a beginners model!) It worked, as most of my buddies at the time, told me that the design was far too advanced for my flying skills of that period. However, it was successfully flown single channel, on more than one occassion, proving the point.. The final notes in the accompanying article state that the name Bootlace, came about by the fact that that it looked a little like a Shoestring, but wasn't quite so pretty! So! There isn't, and never was, any effort to base it on the real Shoestring, or any other real aircraft, just to create the appearance of a pylon racer. Hope this clears it all up. Thanks, Ian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted February 23, 2016 Share Posted February 23, 2016 Hi Ian. I still have your Miss Tangerine. It hasn't been flown for many years but is all there and one day may fly again. There are photos of it earlier in this thread, taken back in the very early eighties. It does look a lot like your Bootlace and I wonder if you used the same basic design for both, or were they just similar to each other? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted February 24, 2016 Share Posted February 24, 2016 Ian Are you making reference to the Bootlace that was published in RCM&E some 20 or so years ago? If so, you have my sincere congratulations on a good looking, easy to build and fly model/design. The Bootlace and your Spitfire and 109 have had a major impact on the design, along with the general features of PM models, that i have used on my own models. Many times I have thought, is any of this model my own design, as I have borrowed most features and details. I have used the balsa/ply doubler in conjunction with impact adhesive to roll a contoured side a good few times now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Stevenson Posted April 17, 2018 Share Posted April 17, 2018 Peter I picked up a beautifully built and covered Bootlace at our swap meet. It would be much appreciated if you would advise me of the CG point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 18, 2018 Share Posted April 18, 2018 Hi Derek Basically I use a standard CG point of 25% of the root chord. So just measure the wing at the root and the CG is 1/4 of that distance back from the leading edge. Sorry if I have made that sound too basic but I have found that the occasional person doesn't quite get that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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