Jump to content

B.26 Martin Marauder build from plans,for twin electric power


Recommended Posts

Thanks Danny, that looks perfect. I saw this user review on HK and my model will be heavier than this by around one pound.
 
"This motor is incredible. Very powerful and efficient. Performs best on an APC 10X5 (~1.1kg thrust at 25 Amps) or 10X7 (~1.3kg thrust at 27 Amps). Usually I'm critical about rating these, but this one I have no complaints. Expect efficiencies around 75-80%. I fly two on a 3.5 pound P-38 with 3 blade 9X7 master airscrew props. I have impressive power pulling 50 Amps between both motors."

My props although 4 bladers should be ok if I pitch down to the lower settings as some have, and amp draw should be good. (lol,I hope)


I will be getting my new shaft soon, and as soon as the ES motor is rebuilt, I'll put it on my wattmeter and see how things go.
I haven't the cash to buy those from HK right now, but will be a good backup should I need to at some point in the future.


Thanks for your time in looking to help me out, much appreciated.

Matt
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Advert


Danny, what about THIS motor?
 
I have decided to change my retracts with more powerful electric units from Hobby King, they will be simpler to install, and should close my gear doors with ease-well, that's the theory.
 
In the meantime (today) am going to attempt to change the broken shaft in my motor using the replacement 4mm shaft I got from Micron, here goes! (Never tried it before)
 
Matt
 
PS, the Lightning has sold to a Swiss modeller, who offered me £180 for it, so am happy about that, but sad to see her fly away...oh well, I could always build a bigger one someday...

Edited By Matt Halton on 22/02/2011 10:57:17

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for that Danny, I attempted a shaft change today, and succeeded!
 
Undid the grubscrew at the base end of the shaft easily enough, but then the fun began!
I could not shift the end of the broken shaft out of the backplate, so used a small vice, geez it is so tough to move this press fitted shaft (obviously intentional) but had to use a LOT of force to remove it.

I used a small screw just smaller than my shaft size, and pressed it out, replacement was still tricky, but a lot simpler, just gave a 1/4 turn, rotated the motor a bit, another 1/4 and so on until it was pushed all the way home.

Was a but disturbed to find that the motor felt rough when spinning by hand..then found the cause, the backplate reddy coloured head had came loose from the chrome band holding the magnets in.

It had some white stuff, some kind of glue holding it there, anyone have any idea what type of glue that is please?

So, once the backplate was pushed into position again, it turned smoothly like new.

I have used a collar to retain the shaft after filing a small flat in the shaft with my dremel tool.

As I received the motor with the shaft broken flush with the can, obviously there was no collar (which I now have) but no thrust washer. I am right in thinking I will need one, any input please guys? Is so, what can I use?

Am pretty pleased though I changed a mainshaft on my own, so now I can start modifying the B-26 nacelles to take them.
So, no worries about finding another motor....yet! (Must admit,am very surprised at myself, I never though this would have been achieved using simple home tools!)
New one in, old one out.
Just after fitting new shaft.
Done!
Link to comment
Share on other sites





Looks a bit agricultural, but should work fine.

I made a new mount from scrap aluminium today, it's 1/16th thick, but with some fiddling around, managed to set it up right.

I used to old motor mount ply box to screw the arms of the mount onto.
Am thinking of making a pair of additional 'L' shaped pieces to put under the allen heads and screw to the bulkhead using self tappers for additional support. Any other input regarding mount supporting welcome.

So, that's one made, the second has been marked and cut, just needs bending and appropiate holes drilling in the front of the mount and sides...not as fast and simple to make as it appears!

HK electric retracts should be here any day now, so will change over with the mechanicals, they work fine, but lack the grunt to open and close the doors, really cheap at around $7.50 each!
 
Cheers
 
Matt
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Evening all!
 
Today, for the first time ever, after I finished up soldering leads on the othe ESC, I got her to taxy in the garden, and did some full power tests.
She sure has some grunt now!
Not put my wattmeter on yet, but I think it's safe to say these motors won't be burning out in a hurry, and the E-Flite 30 amp PRO ESC's are just peach, barely lukewarm ESC's and motors after full power runs.

Didn't put the cowls on for this check as I wanted to be sure the motors weren't getting too hot. I have to still disable the brake on the ESC's, but before I do, is the brake better for twins (I'm thinking if one motor fails, does freewheeling produce more drag, or is it better braked?)

Also, removed the internal rudder link, as it was way down on enough power to use the rudder effectively, so have installed a rudder servo under the upper rear turret, but now have an ugly external horn and linkage, but far better to save the plane than look pretty.

Glued the turret on finally (won't lose this one again! lol)

I did have one issue, the nosegear collapsed on one run, it wasn't locked fully. No real damage except a very small amount of prop tip damage, and a dent under the fuse where the radar 'football' took all the force, went backwards and made a small pointy dent which I will have to make good again.
Oh well, could have been worse!

Another thing, the nosegear was bending a little left and right at times, I'm wondering now if it will cope with normal flight operations?

I have made a small video in HD on my Galaxy S Android phone, I hope you guys like it!

We seem to be creeping nearer and nearer to the first bombing mission!

Here's the short video clip, don't forget to watch in HD/Fullscreen. Please note, the elevators still need some adjustment, and video was recorded before the rudder mod.
 
Cheers
 
Matt
Link to comment
Share on other sites

They are my special YouTube socks Tim, I only get em out for special occasions, am glad someone has noticed them at last!
 
Yeah, those wheels are super squeaky, should have WD 40'd her axles, I thought it was birds singing at first....!
 
 
Well, I'm happy it's all done power system wise,at long last!
 
Tomorrow I'm revisiting gear door actuation by other means...oh nooooo!!!!
 
Cheers
 
Matt
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey, I have a new DX-7 I want to use in this model, but brown outs are scaring me silly, I have read quite a bit about the subject.
 
Anyone got any tips for me? I was told about a unit that Al's hobbies sell designed to ensure there is always enough current to avoid brown outs. Do you think this, with 10 servos would be ok, I have an 8 amp external BEC I plan to use.
 
 
Spektrum experts please chime in!
 
Thanks
 
Matt

Edited By Matt Halton on 10/03/2011 17:23:07

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The device is nothing more than a capacitor and was designed for the car boys - useless on an aircraft according to spektrum themselves.
My advice FWIW is to use a good full range receiver such as the AR7000 /9000, ( ensuring its QC enabled ) a good UBEC set to 6v ( which you have ) and ensure that the receiver(s) are correctly installed and orientated at 90 degees to one another. Obviously do a couple of range tests, with motors running, and turn the model through all possible angles when checking.
I have never suffered a brown out in the 5 years I have had my spektrum set.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

Hi David,

Welcome to the forum!

Now, I don't normally make a point of directing folk elsewhere but I'm not sure that Matt is a frequent visitor here now - unless he lurks in the background or has bookmarked this thread to attract his attentionsmile

I haven't seen him active here since back in March but he's a frequent contributor over on RCG. It might be worth contacting him through his blog over there....

Y'all come back and visit us sometime........wink 2

Pete

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...