Geoff Bradley Posted October 18, 2009 Author Share Posted October 18, 2009 I've tried a couple of office suppliers with no luck - must do some more hunting.I didn't think it a good idea to use the parafin on the RCME plans because they are printed both sides and it may be a little confusing to do. I'll have a search wider afield before deciding which avenue to take. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernie Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 Hi Geoff, try the yellow pages for architects printers ernie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Bradley Posted October 18, 2009 Author Share Posted October 18, 2009 Just had a look with no luck. However my good lady works for the local council and says she will contact the architects department to see if they can help.Fingers crossed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 Why not use a normal A3 copier and do thye plan in sections. Or you could even use your own PSC with your computer and copy on to A4 tracing paper. I often scan a 3 view, enlarge to the size I want and copy on to tracng paper to compare it with another 3 view in a different scale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olly P Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 Geoff, If you can get to Blackburn there is a print shop in the old coffee place (warehouse iirc) on Canterbury Street, very quick, good copiers.Edited By Olly P on 18/10/2009 19:24:43 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Bradley Posted October 20, 2009 Author Share Posted October 20, 2009 Thanks for all the suggestions - I pleased to say my good lady has done me proud and managed to get them copied Olly - Yes I do go to Blackburn but not very often - next time I'll seek out Canterbury Street. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Bradley Posted November 1, 2009 Author Share Posted November 1, 2009 I've been trying to find information with regard to spacing of Mylar hinges but with no success.I'm concerned about splitting the balsa if the spacing is too close - on the other hand I don't want to leave the hinge weak by having too few hinges.Can you advise me of the safest way to proceed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted November 1, 2009 Share Posted November 1, 2009 The hinges I used were Kavan but other poepl make them. Mylar with a bonded on tissue for the CA wick in. Four on the elevators and two on the rudder are fine. There is no great load on them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernie Posted November 1, 2009 Share Posted November 1, 2009 Hi Geoff, How I hate that job. I've got a 24" tailplane beside me, with 4 mylar hinges at about 6" centres. I find that a small line of vaseline, or wax crayon on the small exposed bit helps to keep it clear of CA Also, don't forget to pin them with cocktail sticks. If you're really careful; you can drill holes for the pin from below, but not pierce the top cover, then the making good is restricted to below Finally, from an aerodynamic point of view it is a good idea to seal the joint. I use Blenderm tape from the chemist for this. It's wonderful stuff with a multitude of uses ernie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Bradley Posted November 1, 2009 Author Share Posted November 1, 2009 Thanks for the prompt reply - do you mean four hinges in total on the elevators?Also I've read that using cocktail sticks through the hinge gives extra security - do you think this is a good idea ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Bradley Posted November 1, 2009 Author Share Posted November 1, 2009 Sorry Ernie I sent my previous message before I'd read yours about the cocktail sticks and Blenderm tape. Can you explain what you mean by 'seal the joint' - do you cover the whole area with the tape ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted November 1, 2009 Share Posted November 1, 2009 I have to say that when the model is a slow gentle one I don't bother pinning the proper CA hinges. Faster, hairy beasts, yes. Of course if you have the plain maylar plastic you do ned to pin them as the CA doesn't grip that type well. You could add a couple more hinges if you wanted to but mine are space at about 2" in from each end of each elevator. With the CA hinges there is little or no gap so sealing them doesn't make much difference. If you do decide to seal them make very sure that the tape doesn't restrict the travel of the control surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Bradley Posted November 1, 2009 Author Share Posted November 1, 2009 Flying fast,hairy beasts is a long way off for me so I'll see how my first attempt at fitting goes and then decide whether or not to use cocktail sticks or/and seal the joint..Thanks again for your help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ernie Posted November 1, 2009 Share Posted November 1, 2009 Hi Geoff It's not essential to seal the joint, but I think it makes the tailplane more efficient. The idea is to close the gap between the tailplane and elevator. I have stuck a length of insulation tape along the joint, and noticed the difference And yes, four hinges on the whole length. As the renowned Peter M says, there is not a lot of stress Cocktail sticks are a belt and braces job, but remember that an elevator coming adrift means a bin bag I'd never take a chance on such a critical area ernie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Bradley Posted November 12, 2009 Author Share Posted November 12, 2009 Peter - HEEEELP I'm about to fit the wing tips but can't figure it out.I've cut the spars slightly longer than on the plan until I am happy with how to proceed but I have come across two problems. Firstly the tip needs to be twisted in order to contact with the front spar - if the tip is not to be twisted it seems the front spar needs to be longer than the back spar because it is further from the underside of the wing (hope that makes sense) On the plan the spars are shown almost the same length. Secondly the tip it intersects the training edge well within the form shown on the plan. I'm not confident enough to decide what to do but feel I should lengthen the front spar so the tip does not twist and to just blend the tip irrespective of the plan. Your advice would be gratefully appreciated. Edited By Geoff Bradley on 12/11/2009 21:39:05 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 Not quite sure what you mean but never mind. It is very simple really. The tip is just a flat sheet of wood angled up from the boittom of the rib. IT can be made as a rectangle. it is then shaped so that in end view it is the same shape as the rib and the top of the wing is flat right out to the tip. The spars are not important, you could cut them off flush with the end rib and then make up sheet gussets to support the tip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Bradley Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 Thanks again for the prompt reply. I was trying to achieve the form shown on the plan which I now realise is not as critical as I thought. I've now ignored the form and set the tip at the angle shown on the plan (waiting for the sticky stuff to dry)I may add a couple of sheet gussets just inside the leading and trailing edge for an extra bit of extra strength. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted November 13, 2009 Share Posted November 13, 2009 The shape was as drawn on the original MAN drawing. But you can't really get that shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Bradley Posted November 13, 2009 Author Share Posted November 13, 2009 Finally managed it plus some more pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Bradley Posted December 6, 2009 Author Share Posted December 6, 2009 PeterI'm just about to fit the fairing/skid assembly and would like a little advice.From the plan it looks as if the 16swg skid is glued into a tube and then held with the 1/8" ply plate. However there is an instruction - 'hard 1/16" sheet butt plate to' which I do not understand. Can you help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted December 6, 2009 Share Posted December 6, 2009 I don't understand the "Hard 1/16" sheet butplate to" either. They seem to have left out my little sketch of the tail skid. You bend the skid up and bend a tight, long "U" on the end, THis slides into a piece of flattened brass tube. Then there should be two screws that go through the tube and between the legs of the "U" and into the ply plate. THis is probably the simplest and most effective way of fitting a tailskid oir tailwheel, If you still have the RCM&E with Miss Demeanor in it it shows it a little more clearly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Bradley Posted December 6, 2009 Author Share Posted December 6, 2009 Unfortunately I haven't got the plans for Miss Demeanor but your description is easy to understand.Thanks once again.Have you written any books about building techniques I've done net search but couldn't find anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 There are four books. "Designing" Model Aircraft. Which does what the title says. "High Flying on a low Budget" Which is all about ecenonmy modelling. "Essential Tips and techniques Vols 1 and 2." These do give some building techniques. All published by Traplet Publications. (Note) I don't get royalties so am not plugging them for that reason! I also have a three part series on building from plans coming out starting in the Feb issue unless it gets put back again.Edited By Peter Miller on 07/12/2009 08:30:57 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Bradley Posted December 7, 2009 Author Share Posted December 7, 2009 Would you believe it - I've just got home from work to find the 'BMFA NEWS' on the doormat with a Traplet catalogue. 'Essential Tips and techniques Vols 1 and 2' are in there on special offer. They will be in Santas sack. Also looking forward to your new three part series - there should be more building articles in the magazine as it might stir up more building interest. Too many RTF and ARTF for my liking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 Good luck with Santa. Don't ask my opinion of ARTFs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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