Building the Nijhuis Lysander

[MThemadhatter]

Thanks Supermario, its starting to feel like I am getting somewhere now My list of jobs now goes

 

Paint Cowl

Finish Painting interior and cockpit (second cote)

Servo and RX installation

Cover tail feathers

Install Tail feathers

Make and install tail wheel

Sheet and detail tail

Closed loop linkages to tail

Install servos and linkages in wing

Spats and struts (struts half finished)

Check and fix any hanger rash, rough bits

Cover airframe

Paint

Fly

 

The spats I am dreading the quality of the cowl was not what I am used to, took a lot to make it look ok.

[rookie jim]

i just read max's post and then it hit me. all this relief at nearing completion and then you realise.

 

YOU HAVE TO FLY IT!!!!!  WELL YOU PRAY IT FLIES

not a question of if it flying well. just as long as it  flies somehow will do me.

 

Jim

[Hugh P]

Jim

As for the RX pack, I'm going for a 6v Hump pack (3+2) and I'm just about to mount it on F1 in the same place as the plan, the only difference is I'm going to cut a hole in F1 and make a lite ply box and put the battery END ON so that it is up against F2. This will give a slight adjustment for the Cof G, as the pack will be able to slide in & out.

I also plan to put a single sub C  (3200ma) clipped in with two 22mm pipe clip at the side for the glow and the SM Services Glow switch will be mounted on the side under a hatch. I do like to be able to get at things. I think the tank is going to have to be built in though.

With all that extra weight at the front I've decided to go down the Solartex route.

HughP

[rookie jim]

All,

made the fillets between the wing and canopy but they need final shaping and moving on to spats.

 

did i pay good money for these in the hope it would make life easier!?

 

the outline to trim to is very poorly marked and i suspect car filler paste will be needed. good job they will be painted, hopefully hiding any irregularities shall we call them.

 

Ce la vie

 

Jim

Edited By rookie jim on 28/07/2010 08:09:04

[Grahamd]

the outline to trim to is very poorly marked and i suspect car filler paste will be needed. good job they will be painted, hopefully hiding any irregularities shall we call them.

 

Yep, like my spats, what a load of pooh, no lines on mine except at the very top!!! made cutting them and getting them to mate a nightmare.

 

In the end I used the tried and tested (well it was many years back when ABS first windled its way into model kits) of CA and balsa dust, with a little baking powder. apply thick CA, fill with balsa dust, then sprinkle on baking powder. FIZZZZZZZ. Easy to sand and fills all manor of holes.

 

[MThemadhatter]

JIM

 

It might be worth trying the technique I used with my cowl. I used deep fill plastic primer on the cowl. I put a couple of coats on then sanded it back so that all but the filler in the dents had been removed. I then put a couple more coats on and sanded it back again ready for painting. This got rid of most of the small imperfections. The detail and panel lines I have added should mask the bigger ones . I did consider levelling them out using some Humbrol Model Filler and will probably have to do this with the spats. 

I am going to add as much detail as I can to the spats, I am also extremely glad I made my UC removable as this is going to help here lots. 

[Terry Whiting 1]

Graham,

 

The baking powder trick is a new one on me. I use the same system

but use 'mico balloons' a Deluxe Materials product. This is also good for

producing small fillets.

 

 

.

 

[rookie jim]

the vac pack spats really are very poor quality. the thickness isnt even uniform which makes joing together the two halves even more difficult: thats if the two halves of a spat  actually match each other to some degree.

 

very disappointed.

 

Jim

[Terry Whiting 1]

Jim,

 

If you have some good short bladed nail scissors use them,

 

Study  PAGE 29, this give a method of BUTT jointing, and adhering

the spat to the aluminium leg. Unbeknowing to each other, Mario

and I were working on the same idea.

 

Keep a swear box handy,while doing the job, and put a £ in it each

time a naughty word enters your head, by time you have finished the

spats you will have saved the cost of a Halifax

 

Sorry you guys done mine, but  I don't envey your job       

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 30/07/2010 10:16:12

[Tim Mackey]

[Terry Whiting 1]

I know what   was for Tim, but I had clicked EDIT POST before your

[Tim Mackey]

LOL

[Supermario]

Hi guys

For those who continue their buildings and want some more details

here goes a video from an Lysander thats doing the World Scale Championship in Polonia.

I hope you enjoy it.

Regards

Mário 

[Terry Whiting 1]

Mario,

 

I just had to see that  for the second time. What a fantastic  model,

 that is scale at it's very best.

I wonder how many hours that build took!

 

Terry

 

 

[Doug Ireland]

Any idea what it has up front, is radial the real thing or a mock up?

[MThemadhatter]

Looks and sounds like the real thing to me , something like this Petrol Radial one can only dream. Bet he had to change his underwear after that take off though  

 

Back to building, anyone know which paints to use for the roundels on my Canadian lizzi ? I looked at warbird colours but they are a touch pricey seeing as I only need a little bit.

[Terry Whiting 1]

Doug,

 

From what I could see, I think it either a 5 cylinder Moki, or a 5 Mackay.

Megga bucks, and out of my league, but what a beautiful sound.   

[Supermario]

Hi guys

I'm not sure but seems to me that is a Moki 215 cm3 or a Ballack ( very good tcheck motor), because the guy is from Russia or any country near.

Infortunatelly I heard that this plan crashes during the Scale Championship and that is a terrible lost.

Like Max said I think the plane flyes really good but the pilot was very nervous, we notice that in the take off. Maybe the plane were needing large trimming, but that jump was strange.

Regards

Mário

[Terry Whiting 1]

What a tragic loss, the guy must be totally devastated.

 

I personally thought the flight looked a little problematic in pitch,

whether this was due to a lack of elevator expotential, or balance

we will never know.

But I wonder if that little lift of the tail by the pilot in his preparation

was an indication he was just a little concerned with tail weight ! ?

Edited By Terry Whiting 1 on 12/08/2010 08:50:27

[MThemadhatter]

A couple more update pictures of bits and pieces I have been doing. Lost of fiddly and time consuming bits and prep.

 

I have all the bits and pieces for the rest of the cockpit ready, but I decided to put these in after I have done  the control rods, closed loop and radio install as it gives you much more room to work in. Have decided to cover with yellow solatex and then paint the black stripes on. I did a test on yellow and black and painting yellow onto black took to much paint. The platform that the rx sits on is held in place by screws, using servo grommets to de-couple it and is removable to access the rudder and elevator servos.

 

[Supermario]

Hi Max

Looks great.

Soon it will be airborne.

Continue with the good work

Regards

Mário

[Terry Whiting 1]

The winning line is in sight Max, and you are doing a grand job.

When painting it's usually dark over light.

 

 By the way, what size prop are you using there, it looks rather a

 big beast,   13" ???

 

Terry.  

[MThemadhatter]

Thanks for the encouragement guys. The prop is a 12x6 MA, not sure if I will use it though I might put a 13x6 2 blade on or 12x7. All depends on how it flys. 

[rookie jim]

hi all,

just got back from a holiday but have kept an eye on the forum while away (is that sad or what. do i need to get a life?)( and the halifax build too. glad your bits have arrived mario). now started on lizzie again and found that one flap and one aileron need redoing. i had made the 45 degree chamfer on their leading edges the wrong way round. i hadnt  thought to much about it until i came to match up to the wing. whoops.

 

still managed to get le off ok and will fit a new one over weekend.

 

the spats are still in one piece after being left for two weeks so i will finish sanding the join over the next few days. i must say the car bumper plastic repair paste did a good job.

 

my next problem is when i fix spats to the undercarriage whats the best way to support them. do they need some balsa or foam to make sure they dont move because the only thing holding them in position is the screw/bolt near the fuz. i thought perhaps some support near the bend in the undercarriage leg.

 

in the end i decided to fit a dummy radial so lms has ordered a top flite one although they couldnt see it in the catalogue. then i look on TN website and find its discontinued but the yhave sourced an alternaticve. wonder whether i will get the top flite one or have to get the TN one. hope its better than the other vac items if i  do have to go down that route.

 

jim

Edited By rookie jim on 15/08/2010 11:29:17

[Grahamd]

Plodding on with mine.

 

Instead of a balsa block at the back, I've used blue foam (hollowed), and flared it into the fuz

 

Made and installed the tailwheel

 

Installed the wing supports

 

Installed Rudder and Elevator servos (using snake for rudder and push rod (dual ended) for the elevators, as muggins here forgot to install the coupling rod, doh

Spats are installed (as per Marios technique, but using wickes mastik)

 

 

Pilot and dash installed

 

 

As I'm going electric (largest one todate), I'm going to use A123 cells, so I can mount them as far forward as possible. Nearly died when I tried to source them as individual cells, in the end I got one of these off Flea-Bay

 

Contains 10 X 3.3Volts cells @ 2.2Amps each

 

Now I'm in the testing stage with the engine, ESC and batteries, so far I've settled for 6 cells (picture shows 5), and installed a balance lead as my charger (Fusion Palladin) includes a balancer that supports Lifo cells).

 

Boy does this combination humm. I can run it full bore for almost 10 minutes without anything getting hot (and that includes a test 12.5X8 3-blade Graupner prop (gonna change that for a 14X7 2-blade).

 

Unfortunately the  watt meter I purchased at Cosford was dead out of the box, but the replacement is in the post so I should soon be able to quote some actual figures.

 

If anyone wants to watch (HEAR) it heres a link to youtube

Edited By Grahamd on 15/08/2010 11:59:46