Building the Nijhuis Lysander

[Jonners]

Mario, 'good to hear from you. I have to give a lot of credit to you and to 'Madhatter' for your posts here. I have referenced your photos time and again!

 

So thanks a lot, and your Lizzie is truly exceptional.

 

Nick

[Jonners]

Darryl,

 

Thanks for all the detail, some of it will help me. I also had a problem with the Aluminium and wound up with 1.5mm off cuts. So I also bent a 10 SWG wire U/C to the same profile and combined them - it's still a work in progress but I think strong enough. A long time ago I bought plans for a Lysander in the same scale - far more complex - but I dug it out and used that for an U/C guide.

 

What is a closed loop rudder?

 

B.t.w. - mine's electric, I copied the set up from another author in this thread, but it is now too big to spend the time finding him! (the search facility does diddly squat).

 

BR,

 

Nick

 

[Djay]

Hello Jonners.

 

closed loop is pull pull cables (wire fishing trace).one each side of the rudder, lightweight but very efficient, cables are not tight but just enough tension to stop them sagging.

make sure you plan wher to put batteries, switches etc before you complete the stringers and before covering, it makes it all easier to put together.

 

Darryl

[Jonners]

 

Thanks Darryl - yes the fusalage remains bare bones stage one while I figure out the plumbing!

 

To continue credit where credit's due, the electric set up I copied was that of:

 

Allan Bennett in his posting of 07/06/2010 11:15:59

 

Thanks Allan.

 

B.T.W. has anyone a summary of the recommended throws for the control surfaces?

 

Jonners

[Jonners]

Belay the last question it came up a few pages back:

 

They are on the first sheet of plans,

 

Elevator 13mm

Aileron 8mm

Rudder 20mm

 

[Keith Dance 2]

I am having trouble wireing the wings! 2xservo's and nav. lights. Can someone suggest a suitable way of doing this?

The ideal would be a multi plug fixed to the wing root and to a ply plate between the carbon spars but all the plugs I have tried from the glider community are too tight to get apart .

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Djay]

I just cut a slot in the wing inner rib, and a corresponding slot in the canopy and have y leads running up the frame to the slot. wires from the wing just plug into the Y leads.

 

Works well, you can hardly see the wires inside the canopy as the aircraft is so small.

 

having lots of problems taking mine off from a tarmac runway, but found that when weight was on the main wheels , the tyres were spreading and rubbing the inside top of the spats so causing the plane to flip onto its nose after doing multiple 180 turns at high speed.

solve it with smaller wheels, but it still turns hard right just at lift off,but once flying is very fast and nippy.

Crashed mine last week, when after flying for over 5 minutes I did a 180 to come back into wind over the runway ans it just flipped to the left and dived into the ground.

All the palstic bits were broken, but other than the frame where the stringers and solid wood join breaking loose, and the balsa intrernal sides cracking, it survived and is nearly back together again.

Darryl

[Allan Bennett]

Posted by Djay on 21/11/2011 13:24:24:
... Crashed mine last week, when after flying for over 5 minutes I did a 180 to come back into wind over the runway ans it just flipped to the left and dived into the ground. ...

 

Mine did exaclty that a while back, and I put it down to losing more speed than I thought on the final turns to the landing approach (depth- and speed-perception not so good at that point in the circuit), and causing a wing-tip stall. It's rebuilt now, but I've not had a good enough day to re-maiden it yet.

 

Thanks for the credit, Jonners. You'll probably need lead in the nose if you're using LiPos instead of A123s. Hope it goes well for you.

[Jonners]

 

I am now at the stage of dry running the basic workings of this model before covering and finishing. All seems in order except that with this set up it is actually very nose heavy. I wonder if Allan Bennett is reading this, does the motor and battery in the photo look anything like the ones you used?

(tried to embed a utube video but it didn't work.

This is the link   http://youtu.be/eCDzeToDc48)

 

 

Happy New Year!

Edited By Jonners on 28/12/2011 05:49:20

Edited By Jonners on 28/12/2011 05:52:32

Edited By Jonners on 28/12/2011 05:53:53

Edited By Jonners on 28/12/2011 05:54:33

[Jonners]

Covering now in progress. I am going for the prototype K1627 finished all over aluminium (cheating a bit here. Unfortunately I ran out of the cheap covering used on the fuselage and switched to Monokote on the wings. That rubbish does not shrink properly so I have scrapped the first attempt and will have to wait a few weeks before the next supply of functional covereing arrives!

[Len Martyn]

Hi All

I nead help please!

how did you get servo leads and plugs through those 8mm holes in the ribs with out enlarging them to 12mm ? good job you keep looking ahead on this build

Len

[Len Martyn]

Hi All

I nead help please!

how did you get servo leads and plugs through those 8mm holes in the ribs with out enlarging them to 12mm ? good job you keep looking ahead on this build

Len

[Allan Bennett]

Posted by Jonners on 28/12/2011 05:47:40:... I wonder if Allan Bennett is reading this, does the motor and battery in the photo look anything like the ones you used? ...

 

Sorry, I've just got back to this thread.

 

Your battery pack looks like it's the same configuration as mine. Where are you mounting it to get the model nose-heavy? I've created a liteply motor "box" in front of the original firewall, and then radial-mounted my motor directly to it. The box, i.e. immediately behind the motor, is where my battery goes. There's a photo of it somewhere on an earlier page in this thread, I think.

 

I can't read the numbers on your motor, but it looks like my 2826/12.

 

I've found the photo ...

 

 

Edited By Allan Bennett on 01/02/2012 20:07:08

Edited By Allan Bennett on 01/02/2012 20:09:28

Edited By Allan Bennett on 01/02/2012 20:10:13

[Allan Bennett]

Len, I don't know exactly what size in mm, but if I want my servo leads to go through holes smaller than the plugs I sometimes take the plastic plug off the pins, then thread the wire through, then reinstall the plastic plug. If you do it carefully by prying up the little plastic tangs that retain the pins, using the point of a hobby knife, you'll do no damage. Just make sure you install the pins back in the right order!

[Jonners]

Thanks Allan. I am using the adjustable engine mounting supplied by AXI. My battery goes into the fuselage from a slot I cut in F1 below and between the engine mount, the battery position is therefore adjustable along the fuselage floor pan. If I set it far enough back, I expect I can get the CoG right, I was just not expecting to have to do so as I was planning to get as much nose ballast from the battery as possible.

 

Len, I enlarged the holes to a suitable oval shaped access.

 

Cheers, Nick

[Keith Dance 2]

Much earlier on in this thread there was a discussion about the purpose of the window at the base of the fin.

I have located a cutaway drawing published in Flight magazine that shows inside a set of balance weights that are round and approximatly 9" diameter. They look as though they may be counterbalancing the moving tail or maybe just altering the CofG.

Further to this on the right hand side adjacent to the fuel tank (at the CofG ?) are three rods called balance weight pegs. As these are on the CofG I surmise they could be interchanged with those at the back perhaps if no crew is carried in the back seat?

Just thought you might be interested.

[Stephen O'Neill]

I have recently purchased a TN Lysander kit and will start building at the end of the summer. I have seen some very good information on this forum so I am hoping there will be enough experience amongst you to be able to advise on the choice of engine. Is the RCV 60 too heavy, as it weighs in just over 600 grms with the silencer?

Thanks in advance

[rookie jim]

Hi Stephen,

welcome to the forum.I used an SC 52 fourstroke in mine. However i cant say whether it was the right choice or not. I havent flown it yet. I was waiting to get my A cert then get it maidened. Done the former but the weather hasnt been helpful with the latter.

jim

Edited By rookie jim on 21/07/2012 23:54:11

[Djay]

Hello Stephen.

The RCV 60 will be to long to fit the nose of the Lysander without modifying the bulkhead.

I have a SC 52 fs in mine and it flies much to fast. Though due to its thin wing and short fuse it has to be flown faster than I would like to stop it stalling. It is more like a sports model than a scale model.

Ground clearance for the prop on the 60 may be an issue as well.

Enjoy the build.

Darryl

[Stephen O'Neill]

Thanks for all of that gents. Well Darryl, that rules out the RCV. I did notice on Tony Nijhuis' video clip that the plane was flying quite fast and I believe he was using the equivalent of the ASP 52 FS. I had contemplated using the Saito 56 which is similar in output but 45 grms lighter and so I understand that weight would have to be added to achieve the correct balance. I am just thinking aloud here but would it be feasable to use a Saito 40 which would hopefully help the plane to fly a little slower but then another 150grms would have to be added to make up the right weight.

[Djay]

I dont think adding the weight will be an issue, just plan out all the radio gear, tank etc as far forward as you can.

I made my cockpit floors removable in 3 sections, and access everything from the top after removing the screwed down canopy.I have no hatches underneath. this makes it easier to locate everything.

A mini servo on the firewall or glued to the side of the engine mount for the throttle will help as well.

Plus a small 6-8 oz fuel tank is all that is required.

If I remember I added weight to the tail on mine, will have to check as I cannt remember.

Darryl

[Stephen O'Neill]

Thanks for that Darryl. I will be ordering an engine soon for the Lysander. Do you think the Saito 40 (0.6HP) will be sufficient?

[Djay]

Hello Stephen.

difficult to say, it depends how heavy you make it.

I would personally not go below a 45 size 4st and max 52.

Darryl

[Stephen O'Neill]

Thanks Darryl, I dont want to come across as reinventing the wheel because my lack of knowledge and experience on the subject has me asking these questions. It looks as though no one is manufacturing 4-stroke engines in the range between 45 and 52 so I would say the safe bet is to go for what already has been tried and tested and just go easy on the throttle. The ASP 52 is certainly great value for money with an output of 0.95 hp and the closest contender is the Saito 56 which believe it or not is slightly lower at 0.9 hp.

Thanks again Darryl for your help.

[MThemadhatter]

I put a saito 62 in mine because that is what I had. This is actually lighter than the 56 but more power and the same size, watch the video of how mine flys with that.

 

Its swinging 13x6 prop and personally I would not go below 50 size as you can never have to much power with a scale model like this to get you out of trouble especially if the build comes out heavy.

Edited By Chris Bott - Moderator on 22/10/2012 13:35:31