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Building the Nijhuis Lysander


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Hey Terry don't frighten me like thatlaugh I just went and checked it just in case.

Yep it does have the required 40mm , it also has the washout built in which does not help the visual from certain angles, but I do appreciate you asking. Bit late in the build if I had forgotten eh.........

Things still progressing slowly, fitting flaps and ailerons, the little things seem to take the longest.

Cheers

Clive

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Hi Clive, sorry for the fright, but I'm pleased I was wrong. I was in the build when the blog first started, (2009( and was surprised the blog was still up and running. Mine was scratch built from the magazine free plan, my only purchase was the plastics, other than the cowl in my view the canopy and spats were second rate, causing problems for many builders. I built mine as electric but never did fly the model as I was offered a price I just couldn't refuse., If you wish to see my Lizy, look in "my photos" page 2. I finished mine as the Old Warden Lysander.

Terry

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Just had a look at your aircraft,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,I think I should take up golfwink

I have all those Lizzy pics on my computer, I very nearly copied your design, very inventive.

As I am getting on in years I tend to build quicker so I get to fly it before I cannot see itlaugh

Cheers

Clive

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Clive I must say there is nothing wrong with your building. The Lysander's nose removal was what I thought the easiest means for changing the battery. One locking screw beneath the cowl is all that is required. There are no hatches under the fuselage, if need be to gain access to the RX and servos the cockpit/ canopy and it's floor is removable.

I'm as yourself knocking on in years, I have a daughter, grandson and grandaughter, also two great grand children living down under in dear old Aus. Hope it's good flying weather!

Terry

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Terry, I have 3 kids, none married etc but I started my family when I was fourty so we are about the same only differentsmiley

My cockpit floor is removeable and so is the front part of the canopy held in by a sliding latch.

I would have done a few things differently if I had spent more time thinking about it before building.

Ah well as long as it fies and does not destroy itself on the maiden I'll be happy.

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Thanks for the good wishes Terry.

Its not finished yet , quite a bit of little stuff to finish off and the motor has not arrived yet.

I did a weight session with all the bits and estimated part weight and it was around 7-7.7 lbs, I don't know where TN got 6lbs from even using an IC motor. I don't think the extra weight should worry it though, only time will tell.

Clive

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Hmmm .. mine's 5lb 12oz ready to fly, with AXI2826 motor and 5S A123 battery. Wing loading may be an issue, for mine crashed after a few flights due to wingtip stall. I'm waiting for nice sunny calm weather to re-maiden it. I think you said earlier that you've built in some washout, which should help.

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Morning Allan, I'm hopeing that my calculations may have been wrong, I will assemble it as soon as the motor is fitted. I would like a nice supprisesmiley If not I don't know where the extra weight has come from!!!!

I hope all goes well with the re-maiden.

Clive

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Nice to see that some of the “2009ers” like Terry and Allan still share the forum long after they finished their Lysander. Terry it’s a pity I didn’t see the way you did the removable nose in time, I would have copied you. Did you have a problem with the C.G. due to the battery? My battery is located right behind the fire wall and quite heavy (580 grams).

Clive, I still don’t know the final weight but I am sure mine will be well over 6 pounds too.

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Johan,

Yes I did have a balance problem as the Lipos being 16cm in length are a disadvantage. I think Allan's route with the A123 type battery was the way to go for electric. If I remember rightly Allan made a battery box on the firewall which would limit or even cancel out exrta ballast requirements.

The reason I didn't use A123' s was because I didn't wish to accumulate another type of battery as I have lipos in plenty. Even Allans at 5.75lb gives a wing loading of 32.8 oz per squ foot, so I say any model near the 7lb mark do not slow that model down on finals.

Terry

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Something to do with the three photos side-by-side a couple of posts up. I seem to recall one of the mods saying you need to put spaces between photos so they will line up vertically -- pity the web site sofware can't manage that for you.

Anyway, gripe over, yes my battery bay extends slightly forward of the firewall (picture on p39), and the A123 pack means I need no extra ballast. My model is covered in Solite or Solarfilm (can't remember which) -- I know it's shiny, but I didn't want to go to the extra weight of Solartex or some other matt type covering. Also, mine is the all-black Shuttleworth colours, so no paint was needed apart from roundels and letters.

My crash was on final turn to a landing approach, so I presume that, due to it's orientation and distance, I had slowed down more than I thought, and the left turn was the final straw that precipitated the tip stall. I've resolved to keep the speed up a little on my next flight.

Edited By Allan Bennett on 04/04/2013 08:54:31

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What I want to know is where the extra weight has come from?

battery is 450gms

motor is375gms

My wheels are quite heavy but the aircraft is so close to the c of g it does not matter.

Very light paint work,,,,,,,,,HS225mg servos, unless the wood used is heavier but 1.25lbs is a lot heavier.

Got me stumped.....................

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I did use solartex but that should not add 1.25 lbs surely...hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

I learned a long time ago not to loose speed until on final, were you using flaps, I deploy flaps on downwind leg and adjust speed for them further no change until on final + I usually do a decending turn onto final to keep the speed.

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No, I don't think I was using flaps at the time, as my previous few landings didn't seem to need them. But I have decided to use them next time, getting used to them 3 mistakes high before I deploy them on or before the downwind landing approach leg. So, roll on a nice, warm, sunny day -- I hate assembling models and then maidening them on nasty cold days!

Looking even further into the future, my 5S A123 packs, which I use in three different models, are getting quite old now, so I've been researching suitable replacements. I can get a 4S 3900mAh LiPo that'll fit the same battery box and have almost exactly the same weight. May need a slightly different prop to get the right amps/power.

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Allen,

I learned from Terry you located your battery box at the fire wall, and from what you told us your original A123 was a little under 400g. I still will have to find out if I can use my heavy Hyperion 4200mAh 5S (580g), if not I think I will go for your Thunder Power suggestion.

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I don't think it's worth spending a lot of money on a new battery for the sake of a hundred grammes. If the c of g is too far forward with a 580g battery, it won't need much ballast at the rear to get it right.

Remember, the Thunder Power battery I linked is 4S LiPo, not 5S: The 5S equivalent is 448g. For me, 4S LiPo is probably equivalent to 5S A123, with probably a small change to the prop size to get the maximum amps right.

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