August Edition CAP 21 Plans

[Peter Miller]

You could always make your own canopy. It really is quite easy. The hardest part is making the pattern. Alternatively Steve Davis of Vortex-Vacform could make you the pattern and canopy.

Was it you asking him about a bigger canopy the other day? 

[Jimbo565]

Peter

It was me,he's on the job looking through his patterns to see if he has anything suitable,he also has someone checking internet for commercial availability.

If we have no luck i'll have to try your method with the pop bottle and heat gun, or Steve may get the job if the pension hits the bank in time.

[Jimbo565]

Martin

Checked out the Capiche and they all seem to be around the 50" mark,too small.

The 20% increase makes the canopy around  260 long x 125 wide x 110 high.

At the moment it looks like Mr vortex will get the job,i feel sure if itry Peter's method i'll end up with something like a melted  wellie.

Jim

[Peter Miller]

You would need a gallon pop bottle or water bottle and they have ribs which show up. I know.

I make the pattern in pine, laminated to size and shaped with a power plane and surform and sandpaper and lots of sweat and then drape mould the canopy. Mr Vortex would make a much much better job of it. Well worth the money.

[Jimbo565]

I'm inclined to agree with you,not worth spoiling the job.

Got the fuz nearly completed,all built with lite ply including formers,just needs front and rear decking to complete.It only weighs 12 oz. at present.

Steve Davis should cut you in at 2% for the increase in business.( haha)

[Peter Miller]

Steve kindly provided me with the canopies for my next model. Which is kind of him.

[Howard Heffer]

Hi Chaps. Wow loving this thread, really is quite diverse. I have a few questions about your plan though Peter!

 I am currently making my first wing, and have a few question about the aileron servo mounting bays.  I see that your have created a small bay/box out of 2 sections of 1/8" Balsa.  The forward bay wall is clearly made from the dihedral brace and the fuselage wall is non-existant due to the cutaway R1 fomer. 

 My question is about the 1/8" Liteply servo mount.  Is this placed on top of the bay walls so that the servo drops through a hole in the mounting plate, or is the servo mounted in some other way?  It mentions radio active servo mounts are used, but radio active make man servo mounts - perhaps you could supply a direct link the the mounting you recommend.  This would probably explain my query!

 All in all though, I have very much enjoyed making the model while I have had the flu!

And to yourself and any of the other readers, I would like to run this as an electric setup.  Perhaps some of you may give me some ideas as the the sort of components I will need to achieve similar performance of an SC25 engine in electric format.   makes and models of motors and electronics would be appreciated.  Also any recommendation on servos would be appreciated!

 Many thanks

 Howard

[Peter Miller]

The Liteply plate sits in the bottom of the aileron servo bay. The servos are fitted using the brackets as seen at this site

 http://www.radioactivemfg.com/Catalogue/p6.htm#CA190

The model really needs a .32 for maximum performance. Especially for knife edge.

Speaking personally I haven't a clue what electric gubbins you would need.

Nick Attridge tells me that, alhtough masses of canopies have been sold, no one has enquired about the sets of lettering available from him as used on my own model. They really make all the difference and are scale. Note, they do not include the Total logo.

You can get in touch with Nick at [email protected]

[Howard Heffer]

Cool, well I will look for a .32 electric equivalent.  Initial research suggests something in the region of 450W.  More Research Required.

 I see now how the servos are mounted, which servos do you use peter? good enough for you, good enough for me!

I had another little look at the plans, and I notice at this late stage that the rear of the wing from about R3 - R11 is only covered by the heat shrink covering and not balsa as well. 

 Am I correct in my discovery?  This seems to lie quite well with the fact that these are the only ribs with cap strips!!

[Peter Miller]

I use Supertec standard servos from J.Perkins but any standard servo is fine. I also have some Futaba and Hitec.

Yes, the capstripped area is covered with heat shrink film. It is much lighter that way.

I use Solarfilm Supershrink Polyester as I find that this one is the best.

[Martin McIntosh]

Howard, I too am attempting an electric set up on this model. I have a 600W (max) motor which successfully powers a Limbo Dancer on 3s Lipo and 14x8 EAT wooden prop but punishes the 20C 2200mAh pack despite an 11min flight time. Better on 3900mAh 3s. Will try it on APC 14x7 electric prop. My model is near the covering stage and have modified it somewhat by using 1 1/64 ply doublers and mainly balsa formers hollowed to the bare essentials: also a homespun glass cowl which will make conversion back to i/c simple. I have increased the aileron area as a matter of personal choice and made them built-up. I shall be using two mini digi servos in the wing and JR591`s on rud/ele. The basic airframe weight so far is 19oz with no covering or hardware, but I expect the flying weight to be as quoted. Probable covering will be Solarfilm polyester-if I can find somewhere which stocks it.

[Peter Miller]

Hi Martin,

Tell me, how much does your set up cost including brushless motor, ESC, Lipos and charger?

[Martin McIntosh]

Peter, I bought wisely on ebay and ended up with 2x 2200 3s1p lipos, 2x 60A esc`s and 2x 600W motors for around the price of an OS32SX, but these are intended for the outboard motors of my Lanc. and at the moment are just experimental in other models to get the feel of them and try different props etc: your Cap is just right for this, not that I would not have built it anyway because I can get more than enough power from an OS25FX piped - but that would have to be built inside to get it to look right. Certainly I would recommend the i/c set up for anyone intending to build this model as I have had similar in the past, but then I am not averse to trying out this funny newfangled technology. Not looking for a mind boggling performance. Will keep you posted as to the results. Martin Mc.

[Peter Miller]

Martin. I use SC 32s, much cheaper and I feel just as good for my purposes.

In the past I have desinged models for electric power...before brushless motors but I still prefer real engines. I have seen impressive electric models, we even have some in the club although on the small side.

I suppose I just like engines. If some magazine was to set me up with all the gear I would try it but not at my own expense.

At the moment, when the currewnt model is finished one of my options is a twin. Now engine powered twins are pure, undiluted adrenalin.

The other option is a big scale powered glider. My last electric design was for one, I didn't build it a club member did, (Only took him three years) I might do a bigger version for a four stroke.

[Martin McIntosh]

Peter, you are preaching to a converted, dyed in the wool petrol head but I do like to dabble in other things, besides, there are three days a week when we are not allowed to fly i/c at my site. Also I have decided to change the outer motors of my nearly completed Lanc to electric to give power in reserve and hopefully peace of mind that if all else fails at least they will still be running. So as I said - it is a test bed. Martin Mc.

[Andrew Dickinson]

Peter i have just got hold of an old issue featuring the cap 21 plans and was thinking of building it over christmas can you give me details of what wood i need to buy to please, this would help me no end .

Thanks andy

[Peter Miller]

Hi Andy. It is very hard for me to say because I keep a big stock of wood and just take it as I need it. I suppose I should kkep a check on it but by the time they have compressed my drawings down to two sides of an A1 sheet there isn't a lot of room left.

If you will send me you email address I will send you the text of an article I wrote on how to estimate the wood needed for a model. IT would take too long to go into it here.

[Jimbo565]

Hi Andy,

I hope this helps,having recently completed the Cap 21  and the Miss lizzy the overall cost of each model is around the £100 mark.

The nice thing about building from plans is you can limit your spending,you spread the cost over a few weeks then the wallet doesn't hurt too much.

I normally look at the Fuz parts and make a list,balsa,ply etc. and then off to the model shop and then later on you can do the same for the wing.

Jim

[Peter Miller]

Buy your wood from SLEC and you will save a fortune. They are less that 2/3rds the cost of shop bought wood and they will select the wood to your specification. Better quality too.

[Andrew Dickinson]

Hi peter thanks for the reply.  My e-mail address is [email protected]

I am just finishing my wot 4 and ready to cover and install the radio and stuff, but how should i mount and secure the tank. any ideas?  sorry i konw its not your plan but none of the books or plan instructions tell you how to do these bits.

still learning   thanks again andy

[Peter Miller]

MY own system for tank mounting is this. I coat the neck of the tank with Silicone Gasket, Solvol do a good one in a tube. This seals the tank to the former but can be removed easly, it isn't like bath sealant. Any good motorists shop should stock it or a similar item. This stops fuel seepage into the fuselage. IT isn't essential.

If the tank needs support in the fuselage I use bubblewrap stuffed all round it to stop it flopping around.

I also use the small bubble wrap to wrap round my receivers. DO NOT hold it with elastic bands as they squeeeze the air out of it.

I dodn't use bubblewrap with the Spektrum Rxs as the aerails need to be extended.

[Peter Watts]

Just started the CAP21.

Can anyone advise what side and down thrust is required when using the SC32?

Nothing is shown on the plan but some must be required.

[Martin McIntosh]

PW, fledged mine for the first time yesterday with an electric set-up. No downthrust but 1.5deg right thrust added. Pleased to say that no detectable faults were found. One of those rare models which flew straight from the board. Used a 14x7 APC leccy prop but can go up to a 14x11 which may need more right thrust Tried loops, outsides, four points, slows, stall turns, upright and inverted spins and no rudder coupling or veering off was found. The cg seems to be spot on and not even one click of elevator trim was required, so go with the small ammount of sidethrust. I have never found a model which does not need some. MM.

[Peter Miller]

To be honest I set all my designs up with no side thrust and no other off sets. Even my high wing Rhapsody does not have any down thrust and that one will climb vertically out of sight on the SC 32 with no problems at all.

I can see that Martin might need a little side thrust because he is using a comparatively big prop which will create more torque reaction. The 10 X 6s that I use don't really need it.

Probably a pattern flyer setting one up to achieve perfection would want to fine tune the thrust lines but I am not as good as that by a long shot.

[Martin McIntosh]

Sorry Pete, I fly pattern.