Peewhit Posted February 5, 2013 Author Share Posted February 5, 2013 The plastic clevices will provide a weak point which will break in the event of any mishap, thus saving the servos from damage. Or, if you want to go the whole hog Edited By Peewhit on 05/02/2013 22:45:37 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt How Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 hi all, having own my typhoon for a year now .its my first model up and last down. ballasted in a good blow it is a missile, we flew at firle nr eastbourne last sun and it flew faultless again, the typhoon is my first mouldie and im glad i picked this model, there are 20mm ballast kits on ebay, i was flying with 14 oz,, it was a good balance between speed and agility. cant recommend this model enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hydeflyer Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 Yes I realise, in retrospect, that the servos could have been pushed further back (actually forward but I know what you mean), which would have allowed a slightly longer push rod. But as with everything in life, hindsight is a wonderful thing and when it's all new, these things are not clear. I kind of expected with a model that's been around for a few years now, that better fittings would be supplied, as like me, not everyone has a stock of these sort of bits on the shelf. If I was doing it again I would use 4 of the HS125 instead of using HS82 for the flaps (for the sake of saving £16) as these are thin enough to be pushed under the wing skin and fit the supplied mounts. But you'd never get at the covered screw without cutting a slot in the wing skin! As for epoxying them in, I have done for the flaps but used the mounts for the ailerons. However the mounts are epoxied in, so much the same in reality. Hey Ho.. the joys of modelling! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peewhit Posted February 6, 2013 Author Share Posted February 6, 2013 Yes the Typhoon has been around for a few years. Mine is now three years old and although I have some bigger and faster mouldies, I nearly always fly the Typhoon beacause it is so agile and just great fun. Hydeflyer, for a first mouldie build, you seem to have done a cracking job. What have you set the C of G at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hydeflyer Posted February 6, 2013 Share Posted February 6, 2013 I've set the C of G at 85mm to start, although I know Peter and others fly it at 90mm+. However I have always been advised to have the balance more forward for inexperienced pilots like me and adjust it aft as required. Time will tell! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peewhit Posted February 6, 2013 Author Share Posted February 6, 2013 It will fly fine at 85mm and be nicely stable. Move it back when you get a bit of confidence and it becomes a very different plane - much more agile. 97mm is about spot on for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck erdahl Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 Posted by Hydeflyer on 05/02/2013 16:16:45: I've finally finished the Typhoon fit out. What a job it was for a relative novice where mouldies are concerned! Several issues as follows: The supplied M2 clevises are too long, even with a minimal length of threaded M2 rod and the clevises back to back. For the flaps I had to cut about 2mm off the threaded tube and use only the threaded portion of rod, about 20mm long. In any case only 6 clevis are supplied and with 2 for each wing servo and 2 for the fuz, there aren't enough. So I ended up using a cheap and cheerful shorter plastic clevis to connect to the control horn. Try as I might I couldn't then get free movement of the push rod without filing out a little bit of the T/E wing rib. Ouch! The metal clevis' then have to be ground into an arc on the lower surface to clear the servo hub to get sufficient travel for (almost) 90 deg flap. Here's a few piccies. Apologies for quality.. done with the mobile phone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck erdahl Posted February 7, 2013 Share Posted February 7, 2013 I hated those clevises that came with my Typhoon. I through them in the junk box and used 2-56 threaded rods and Sullivan Gold clevises. The are well made and won't break in the flight or during landing with the flaps. I love flying the Typhoon! Great sloper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Lewzey Posted July 3, 2013 Share Posted July 3, 2013 Could anyone recommend a way to mend a typhoon fuselage? vertical fracture most of the way round one side of the fuselage just behind the wing. There's very little access internally here, but I really don't want to leave the exterior looking terrible. Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGPuk Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 Posted by Jonathan Lewzey on 03/07/2013 21:26:04: Could anyone recommend a way to mend a typhoon fuselage? vertical fracture most of the way round one side of the fuselage just behind the wing. There's very little access internally here, but I really don't want to leave the exterior looking terrible. Any suggestions? Have a look about halfway down this page: **LINK** Ro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck erdahl Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 I had some minor cracking in the same spot recently: right behind the wing saddle My fuse was still tight and connected so I lightly pulled the seams even by drilling a 1/16" hole in a seam that one side had dropped a little. I put in a piece of piano wire with a short bend and pulled the lower side back to even. Then I lightly sanded the damaged area. I put a piece of carbon tow about 2"s long over the crack front to back, and another one on the opposite side, spreading them gently apart to make them as flat as possible. Then wet with 30 minute epoxy and put wax paper over the wet carbon then taped it down snug. It came out looking like I carbon socked it and is REALLY strong with no flex. The fuse will come apart otherwise as this area gets a lot of loading. If you are concerned about the look of it, sand down the repair a bit and glass over it, then prime and paint it. Personally speaking I think the carbon doesn't look too bad and that area is as strong as new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Lewzey Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 Cheers guys, I was thinking of something like the link, the pictures are useful with the text though so thanks for the link. Not sure when I'll get round to it, if I have any problems I'll report back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck erdahl Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 Jonathan Here's a pict of the repair. Not pretty, but strong as new and can be glassed and painted, if desired. Question: is yours cracked so badly that the fuse flexes there? Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGPuk Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 Posted by Jonathan Lewzey on 05/07/2013 16:09:22: Cheers guys, I was thinking of something like the link, the pictures are useful with the text though so thanks for the link. Not sure when I'll get round to it, if I have any problems I'll report back The technique in the link I've used twice now and it works a treat. Lots of outer layers of lightweight CF is definitely best, in conjunction with slow-ish (2 hour pot-time) cure and runny epoxy. Plenty of time to work and blots well with peel ply and kitchen towel wrap for a nice dry finish, with a good key if more layers are needed. Ro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck erdahl Posted July 6, 2013 Share Posted July 6, 2013 I tried a product called Great Foam to fill and strengthen a leading edge ding. It's your basic spray in insulation foam and it expands about 3 to 1. After it hardends, you can shape it and glass over it. It's good for big dings, but your expanding epoxy looks good as well. I think it would be more convenient for Dings that you don't want to glass up. Very nice. By the way, my Picts won't download to the site from my iPhone so I'll try again later my pc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck erdahl Posted July 6, 2013 Share Posted July 6, 2013 My poor Typhoon had a beautiful landing at Point Fermin in Los Angeles but unfortunately came down on the only rock in 50', cracking the fuse just aft of the wing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck erdahl Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 Posted by chuck erdahl on 05/07/2013 17:17:16: Jonathan Here's a pict of the repair. Not pretty, but strong as new and can be glassed and painted, if desired. Question: is yours cracked so badly that the fuse flexes there? Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan Lewzey Posted July 23, 2013 Share Posted July 23, 2013 The crack is only about 1/3 of the way around the entire circumference, so the fuselage does not flex. It needs a major repair though which is the annoying bit, and there's no access at the moment. Focusing on other projects right now, my club has just got a new field after about 2 years so enjoying some stuff more for that than the slope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hydeflyer Posted October 17, 2013 Share Posted October 17, 2013 A bit of a diversion from the last thread entry I know, but my Phoon had a "mid-air" with a Middle Phase today and has suffered quite severe damage to one wing. The impact sheared right through the foam wing of the MP and the impact to the leading edge of mine has split the joint and cracked the underside of the wing skin. I haven't started to strip things back to expose the full extent of the damage yet but wondered if anyone else has had experience of a repair to a mouldie wing. From an initial inspection it looks like there's some balsa in there, just behind the leading edge.. does anyone know the actual construction of this type of wing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGPuk Posted October 17, 2013 Share Posted October 17, 2013 Strip back as little as possible - inject the right stuff. http://www.sloperacer.blogspot.co.uk/p/fu-fix-fixes.html Ro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck erdahl Posted October 17, 2013 Share Posted October 17, 2013 1. Piece everything back together from the inside and work out and us CA to re glue broken wood and skin. 2.Leave an opening on the LE and inject a little insulation foam inside the wing to strengthen it. Just use small amounts because it EXPANDS a lot. Use Bondo Ultimate to fill in gaps and holes on the outside. Shape it as much as possible while wet. 3. Sand it to shape. Glass it with 6oz fiberglass. Sand it and paint it. O R Cut out the damaged chunk of wing completely and replace it with a piece of blue core foam. Epoxy it on and shape it with sandpaper and glass over it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hydeflyer Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 Cheers for the advice guys, I'm feeling a little less stressed about it now I've calmed down! T9 can get spare wings for about £100 each as well, so that could be a last resort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuck erdahl Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 Come on mate, you can do it The blue core foam way is the easiest and fastest. Some moldies don't have replacement wings like the Phoon does so its a good skill to have. Good luck either way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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