Nik Harrison

Winter project was this Trislander based on Robin Fowler's 80" plan. Motors as recommended by George at 4-max (thanks) on 9"x 4.5" props. Used a single 3s 6000mAh battery. Flies really nicely. I just need to brush up on my landings. It put on some weight with the mods I did and came out at 12.6lbs, but it would not fit in the car otherwise.

My vote is for Flytron. Very bright LEDs that are very easy to setup. As for LED not getting hot - try a 3W LED without a heatsink and see how long it lasts! Cheers.

kc, I've watched this thread grow and grow and I do have sympathy with you, but you are going to have to be a bit more assertive in sorting the problem. The suggestion of moving the car to a different spot has fallen on deaf ears on account of not then being able to tell if it goes off. A quick check on my phone assures me there is a voice activated recorder available so why not use a phone to tell you if the alarm goes off. You will continue to go round in circles if you do not cross off potential problems one at a time. Garage agents are next to useless at solving this type of problem as too much thinking is called for. Either you start ticking off potential sources of the problem or the council will act. I hope this does not sound too aggressive that is not my intention, but relying on the Garage agent is no solution. My sincerest wish is that you get it fixed. Cheers, Nik.

Peter, I like that. Will make some for other packs that I have. Cheers.

PatMc, In the same vain as your "black wire" argument you could say that the proximity of the white lead acted as a heat sink and therefore reduced the damage on the red lead. All this misses the point that the exposed metal of the sockets on the side of the plug is vulnerable to shorting. I have repaired the lead and now put heat shrink round the plug as I do not require it to fit into a female receptacle. I do not have a simple solution to the plugs that are required to fit into a receptacle. Any suggestions?

The reason there is a white lead still on the plug is because I used an old servo lead to connect to the battery. It is completely redundant. The battery is not a flight battery, it is used to drive my servo tester. I never said the battery was effected apart from the heavy current drawn. The smoke was released from the wires because a piece of metal in the same box connected the power leads on the side of the plug. This probably last seconds but the result was startling. The point I was trying to make was that although the exposed metal parts on the side of the plug are small they can still be shorted. There was no "black wire" involved in this post. Lol.

Today at the flying site I had a small fire with a 4.8V battery pack. It was in my plastic box with various other bits and pieces - some of which were metallic. Thankfully I spotted it before too much damage done. The reason I'm mentioning it is I've often left this type of battery on a shelf in my hut without considering what it could come in contact with. From now on I'm going to be a great deal more careful handling what I previous though of as "small" batteries.

Hi John, I moved house a couple of years ago and had an old shed in the garden. It was in very poor state with rat dropping etc, assorted holes, but it had been somebodies pride and joy at one time. The "L" shape was two garage shapes connected together. The decision was to knock down and start again or repair what was there. Structure was still sound with a rear wall of concrete and one of wood, but as the sun had not been on the wooden wall it was in reasonable shape. https://www.withamtimber.co.uk/cladding-and-framing/cladding/tongue-and-groove.html https://www.windows4sheds.co.uk/products/shed-windows/ Used these two companies to fit out the shed. Inside I used hardboard lining and B&Q bubble type insulation roll. It has proved to be adequate in both summer and winter. Used the same tongue and groove wood on the roof as well as the walls. Hope this helps. Nik

Hi, I know you have solved your problem already but here is a site worth knowing. https://boltbase.com/product/a2-stainless-steel-slotted-cheese-head-machine-screws/ Cheers.

Hi, I would suggest a small - high current not required - 4way connector. The female part on the model and the male part shorting pins in pairs for pos and neg power. It would act as an isolation plug. Charging can then be external as with the isolation plug removed the battery is completely isolated from the model electronics. Just a thought.

Lee, Found the website. https://modelradioworkshop.co.uk/shop/specialised-items/mrw82-signal-booster/ Cheers.

Lee, I've had trouble with servos going mad/not working before. My problem was that the Rx I used (Spektrum AR8000) was not able to supply sufficient current to drive said servo. I installed a simple current amplifier and problem solved. Spektrum do a similar amp in a lead. **LINK** Don't know if it's still available but I've attached the circuit that I used to make my own amp. Hope this is of some help. I did find a website that offered a range of such devices so it seems to be a problem that many people have. Unfortunately, I can't remember its name!! Cheers, Nik

One last try then.

Yes please.

Yes please.

Yes please.

Yes please.

Yes please.

Yes please.

Should be fun!

Yes please.

Yes please.

Yes please.