Bert

I agree with Ken on this.   This forum is concerned with the hobby of making and flying model aeroplanes which does hopefully appeal to young people. I think we should keep it clean and light-hearted.   Bert

Posted by Mowerman on 23/02/2011 11:27:29: Not forgetting the Keil Kraft 'Anzak' of the mid fifties, Hurriedly re-named after complaints from 'down under' as Anzak is the name of the memorial day for Australian and New Zealand war dead. Can't remember what its new name was. Edited By Mowerman on 23/02/2011 11:33:03 It came out as the 'Anzac' and was renamed 'Bantam'   Incidentally Ben Buckle carries both plans.   Bert

 A substitute  for neoprene tube is available,   Den's Model Supplies has it and a lot of other good stuff besides.   His delivery and service are excellent, I have bought quite a bit of gear from him.   BertEdited By Bert on 23/02/2011 08:09:04

Hello Tim   They don't weigh much so it isn't worth the hassle for you to pay the postage really.   Just PM me the details and an address to send it to and I'll get on wiith it.   Always happy to help a fellow diesel-freak!   Bert

Tim   If you give me the dimensions (so that it will fit in your 'plane and hold enough fuel) I will make one for you.   Bert

Posted by John Stephenson 2 on 21/02/2011 10:50:30:   So I have two fuselage sides that are the same outside dimensions but other internal dimensions do not match up exactly.   John   That should be ok, the internal parts of the fuselage frames only have to be accurate where the formers etc fit. You can add some pieces of balsa to those points as needed to keep it all square.   Bert

John   Another thing I forgot to mention is to check that the formers etc. will fit the fuselage framework.   Often they are incorrectly drawn on the plan, this is especially true with older or ex-kit plans.   Bert

Great stuff - Keep it up!   A bit late to say this now, but I always cut the spacers first, two at a time. After building the first side, I lay some polythene over it and build the second side on top ot the first.   Bert

Posted by Steve W-O on 18/02/2011 04:48:34:   There are often things like this on ebay, but I'm always nervous to post them in case it is one of the posters here And it probably is....

John   To help with cutting the spacers for the fuselage I use a little thing I made up with a piece of hardwood and two spacers glued to the bottom. It's very simple but it does help to make good joints.   Another that's a great help for these sort of joints is a small electric sanding disc. I don't know how easy they are to get hold of these days but if you can find one, they are a great help.   Good luck with the build, I might make one myself! Bert

Posted by David Davis Telemaster Sales UK on 16/02/2011 17:09:57: These sometimes appear on Ebay as do the Austrian HP VT engines. These are available in in 20 and 25 sizes and are no longer made but the Model Engine Company of America (MECOA) has extensive spares. I have four of them and while they're rather heavy and not too powerful, they'd suit a vintage model well.       I wouldn't bother trying to get any spares from MECOA, they are notoriously unreliable.   Bert

Posted by John Stephenson 2 on 14/02/2011 21:52:44: Am about to start construction of my first build from a plan. The plan details are a bit vague and some balsa sizes are not indicated, e.g. wing rib sheet thickness. I phoned Colin Buckle and asked what the wing rib thickness should be. He said it was pribably 1/16" but maybe 3/32" would be better!!! So not 100% sure what size to use.   I would use 3/32 for the ribs on this model Posted by John Stephenson 2 on 14/02/2011 21:52:44:   Also, no engine size is given on the plan. I believe the original engine on this 48" model was a 2cc diesel - what size glow enigne does this equate to?     Since this is a vintage model i would use a .15 or a .20 two-stroke glow. A .20 would be OK   Posted by John Stephenson 2 on 14/02/2011 21:52:44:   My last question - the engine is inverted in a cowl with an opening at the front but no outlet shown on the plans. Surely there must be a flow of air past the engine for cooling. Should there be an outlet or opening at the rear of the engine cowling?     These models were originally intended for fairly short engine runs so cooling was not a concern. If you are fitting the cowl, make a hole to let the hot air out.   While you are getting used to operating the engine I would leave the cowling off   I hope this is of help   Bert  

  I remember the Trident crash in the early '70s. The emergency workers couldn't get to the crash site because the roads were choked with sightseers trying to get a look at it!   Bert

Posted by Gaz Elliott on 05/02/2011 13:58:37: Hi all,   I have a hager fuse box and i want to supply the carport with electric and light for model workshop. I have a steel armour cable going from the the garage to carport which then supplies a 5amp swithed fuse connection for lights then carries on ( In a T off so it will still be full power ) to a double socket. All boxes are IPC66 waterproof as are the lights. But what size fuse would be recommended to attach the SWA cable to the fuse box??? Cheers guys i am growing out of the wooden hanger so this will just be a store and the carport will be the workshop!!! I am slowly taking over the house!!!! But don't tell my wife!!!   Gaz You really need an electrician to do this. The size of the cable needs to be calculated and more important the prospective earth fault current should be measured to ensure that the fuses/breakers operate in the event of a fault. The electrician will also check the polarity and insulation resistance.     Bert

Posted by Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 10/02/2011 16:05:00: Posted by Bert on 10/02/2011 14:16:30:   I once went out with a girl who had dated Des O;'Conners' nephew   Bert     If that's got even a grain of truth in it I woudn't spread it about too much if I were you Bert - not good for your image, know what I mean   BEB She kept on about it all evening, I didn't bother seeing her again   Bert

  I once went out with a girl who had dated Des O;'Conners' nephew   Bert

When Mick Wilshere gave a talk at our club he said that the switch was a proven weak link in the system.   He only uses the heavy-duty switches.   Bert

Alan C   That's a great site, fascinating.   I didn't realise they had one so thanks for posting the link.   There's a couple of my sets in there too .   Bert

  The Erco Ercoupe had the rudder and ailerons interconnected amongst other things.   Connecting the rudder, elevator, ailerons and throttle together sound like fun-though not very long lasting fun   Bert

Posted by Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 30/01/2011 00:10:29: Was it MacGregor who brought out a three channel tx like that in the UK? - I'm going back many years here, as Alan says no one makes one that I know of now.   I've never heard the expression "cuddle box" before - what's the origin of that Alan?   BEB   Derek Olley (Fleet Control Systems) made me a 'cuddle box' in 1974 and it worked fine but two seperate sticks are easier IMHO.   It was very good as a piece of 'male jewellery though   Bert

There is a JR to Futaba buddy interface Here   Bert

DM You could sand the joining faces to make them square or glue a thin piece of wood to one face and sand it to a taper it so that it fills the gap. Bert

DM It may be that the faces of the join are not square with the trailing edge. I would seperate the halves and see if they are square. Bert

Posted by Martin Harris on 18/01/2011 15:12:51: ...and a bit of Googling later:   Revealed this info...     Now that is interesting.   Well done Martin

+1 for R6dan   Don't feed the Troll!   Bert