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BalsaBasher

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Everything posted by BalsaBasher

  1. Yeah,was going to say - love the presentation lol. Kinda like photographing roadkill
  2. Posted by Martin Harris on 24/01/2011 23:04:27: Can you see the ends of the crack? If so, drilling a small hole at each end centred just beyond the end of the crack should stop it propagating. Fill crack and holes with liquid metal or high temperature epoxy - if possible, V out the crack a little as well.   I would be able to get to the ends , I think ................. and drill small holes . I bit of judicious work with a dremel and the groove could be v'd out a bit.  Fixed the screening last night - so will put up pics of that later and have re-connected sensor and battery connections.   
  3. Posted by Kozmyk on 24/01/2011 13:57:26: I don't know what the dia of that CDI cable is but you get that kind of braiding on audio cables; balanced microphone cable and even guitar leads (up to aboout 6mm dia). Bigger than that and I'd be looking at the screen from multicore cable. Another source might be the screen from computer cables, RS232 and the like. I had a reel of RS 25-way knocking about somewhere, I'll see if I can dig it out. Thanx for the offer - but I live in South Africa
  4. Have taken note of comments regarding braid - there is however a separate earthing strap for the cdi - so less of a risk. The crack does not seem to have gone right through - reason for me thinking to just leave it as is.
  5. Thanx for the reply Steve - Agree on the cover - replacement already ordered. I think the plug cap removal is the way to go - even though it has been crimped on I think cutting it off and then using the braid to slide back over and then refitting .Plug cable will be 5cm's or so shorter so not really an issue.If this fails a new cdi unit.  What do you think of the hairline crack @ bottom right at carb inlet - I presume the cavity is there to provide suction to diaphragm fuel pump ? Not to sure how that can be repaired.......... or if I should even try? Just fill the crack and build up around it with liquid weld.  This is the area I am referring to:  Edited By BalsaBasher on 24/01/2011 11:51:16 Edited By BalsaBasher on 24/01/2011 12:01:49
  6. This is how it came home with me - a sorry bag of bits This is the damage to the cover plate - I am either going to replace - can order for about $40 us from tower hobbies - or will try a local engineering firm to weld up..........will see how this goes. This I will repair using liquid metal ,I have managed to find the bit on the right that broke out , and the left can be moved back into place and then built up , machined and re-tapped . I am a little concerned bout the hairline crack that is visible. Any opinions ? Here we ave some braiding missing and the sensor/battery connections have been damaged.The latter is easy enough to fix . I do need some assistance regarding the damaged screen - would what is left be sufficient. Do I need to extend new screen over the damaged portion and clamp on both sides? A replacement unit is more than half the price of a new engine. Any advice from engine guru's ?  Cheers Hilton  
  7. BalsaBasher

    OS GT55

    Hi there I was "lucky" enough to witness an accident out our field yesterday and was given an OS gt55 to repair. Engine went in deep and I spent the evening taking it apart and flushing out as must of the dirt as possible.  I could then inspect the damage: (1) Carb mounting broken (2) Venturi trumpet damaged (3) Rear cover plate mounting foot broken(4) Wires from Ignition unit frayed  Pics to follow   
  8. Thanx I will have a look - a 20 pound difference in price  so might be worth a try ?
  9. Here are the specs  Specs Wingspan:55 in (1400mm)Overall Length:57 in (1450mm)Wing Area:505 sq in (3245 sq cm)Flying Weight:3.25 lb (1.5 kg)Motor Size:BL 400 DF Outrunner 3500Kv (EFLM1320DF) (2 required)Radio:JR Sport S400 or SX600Servos:four (4) E-flite S75 sub-micro servos (EFLRS75) and one JR SPORT ST47BB servo (JSP20060)Trim Scheme Colors:PrepaintedCG (center of gravity):5.5 in (140mm) back from the leading edgeProp Size:66mm 3-bladed fan unit (2)(included)Speed Control :20-amp Brushless (EFLA311B) (2 required)Recommended Battery:2100 3-cell Li-Po (THP21003SPL) (2 required)Flaps:n/aRetracts:n/aApprox. Flying Duration:9–10 minutes
  10. Hi Peeps I need some help regarding selection of motors and controllers for an E-flight super ailrliner .  I am a bit reluctant to spend the money on the actual e-flight version as they are quite expensive in SA. I am unsure as to what alternatives I should be looking at and would like to get something more affordable of the shelf.  I would appreciate any suggestions and or experiences.  Thanx Hilton Edited By BalsaBasher on 17/10/2009 11:06:58
  11. Maybe it is just the pic but the tail does seem to be a bit off to the left ??/ Keep up the work - lets see her fly.
  12. You seem to be having a lot of fun doing all your conversions  Nice job.
  13. That looks like a  good start.  I have an L4 as my avatar busy converting a small worldplanes EP cub to look a bit like it - all though it will be standoff scale. 
  14. That is stunning Tim !!!   I am just concerned about the cleanliness of your workbench ................ I clean desk is the sign of a sick mind and all that ......
  15. Very impressive Stuart.   Some picks of how the panels lines came out will be very nice to see 
  16. This is an impressive build - your attention to detail is awesome.   Keep them updates coming.
  17. A look on this site :http://www.electrodynam.com/rc/EDR-117/AB.shtml    
  18. Being South African - Elephant biltong. It is a dried meat.It is what Americans commonly refer to as "jerky". Tasted good
  19. A very impressive model.   The camera lens could have done with a wipe
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