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PatMc

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Everything posted by PatMc

  1. PatMc
    I remember seeing John's (I think) model being flown behind the Foxhunter's pub, Whitley Bay. On the strength of what I saw I bought a kit made the same mods + reduced the incidence to 0 - 0 & powered it with a Fox 25.I think I might have the original instructions, if I have I'll scan & post them.  PS it would be better powered by a suitable electric motor & 3s lipos.
  2. PatMc
    Doug & Ian, as John says they can be recycled to make control horns etc.I now dump the plastic kit items & replace with recycled epoxy board.
  3. PatMc
     I've only done it with single sided board but pretty well what Bob said then I scrape most of the components off with a 1" wide wood chisel. This usually leaves a few hanging on but they're easily removed using a soldering iron & a pair of pliers. The excess heat that's been applied in the process makes the copper lands easy to peel away.
  4. PatMc
    Yes, Ken's good at keeping an eye on us all but he should try keeping an eye on his model instead of other people's. "It's behind you Ken" "Oh yes it is"  
  5. PatMc
    Ken, National Museum of Flight, Scotland (East Fortune) airshow is on tomorrow.There should be a Seahawk, Hunter & Bronco as well as the Stearmans you mentioned today. PS you missed John Privett, he turned up just as Enrico & me were having our last flights for the day.  Edited By PatMc on 22/07/2011 17:36:57
  6. PatMc
    Hi John, with any luck I'll be out again tomorrow after the weekly shop, might see you then. Had a good session today flying Guppy & Wildthing, a midair with Mike & a couple or three with Enrico.
  7. PatMc
    Flying with Enrico & Roger last Thursday in very light wind here's the result in 3 parts:   
  8. PatMc
    The carb intake on an old Enya 19 has quite small bore so the suction is good. Using pressure won't be worth the bother & just be something else to go wrong. Remember - KISS
  9. PatMc
    I think it's a pre-schnuerle OS Max 20 or 25 which is what I had in mine before I sold it in the via the model shop in Park View many decades ago.  
  10. PatMc
    Gaz, of the 4 MG's I have, 3 have spoilerons which aren't very effective as spoilers so I simply deploy them fully when I'm ready to land & leave them up until touch down or if I decide to go around. The other model is rud/elev only & I use a switch on the Tx for a Flycam. The Tx used is a Cockpit Sx. For consistency the first 3 models use the L stick for throttle & R slider for the spoilers. If I used a switch or L slider for power I'd lose the throttle check safety feature so on balance it's not worth the bother.
  11. PatMc
    Beereycalfs, I use the throttle stick for motor gliders but I nearly always just bang full power & climb upwind at a steep angle for 15 - 30 secs then glide. It's a near simulation of the launch pattern of a glider from a hand or power winch or from a bungee. TBH a switch would be just as useful for me so long as I could operate it with my left hand.
  12. PatMc
    Posted by Bob Cotsford on 20/07/2011 14:08:27: Posted by PatMc on 20/07/2011 14:05:15:That's the normal way to connect rudder in mode 2 when there are no ailerons. Similarly in mode 1 rudder would be on the left stick for a model without ailerons. Pat, I thought mode 1 only swapped ele and throttle, so primary turn would still be on the right, ie rudder for RET, aileron for full-house? Edited By Bob Cotsford on 20/07/2011 14:08:58 You're right off course, Bob. I had a senior moment & should have said "Similarly in mode 1, rudder would also be on the right stick for a model without ailerons."But it's been over 20 years since I flew anything using mode 1.   
  13. PatMc
    Posted by Bob Moore on 20/07/2011 13:57:13: I can appreciate what you mean about using the left stick when it's in a bottom of the range position. I set up my Westwings Orion leccy glider so that the right stick (as in ailerons left right) controls the rudder. I just plugged the rudder servo into rx channel 1? It feels very natural as it's the stick I move to turn left right?.Edited By Bob Moore on 20/07/2011 13:57:53 That's the normal way to connect rudder in mode 2 when there are no ailerons. Similarly in mode 1 rudder would be on the left stick for a model without ailerons.
  14. PatMc
    Posted by Tony Smith 7 on 20/07/2011 10:25:26: I set mine so the top half of the throttle controls power, and the bottom quarter bring on the airbrakes. My transmitter allows me to set a "centre beep" which warns my when I move the stick up to the middle, before power comes on. I've never come across a Tx where that would be possible.     Edited By PatMc on 20/07/2011 11:00:30
  15. PatMc
    Some folks use either a switch or slider on the Tx for throttle control on motor gliders. This means it's either on/off throttle or proportional but coarse throttle control. They then use the throttle stick for full proportional control of spoilers or flaps.
  16. PatMc
    The side movement of the stick is the same top, middle or bottom on every Tx I've come across.I fly mode 2 with several motor gliders without any problem.
  17. PatMc
    I always salvage bits of pcb from any redundant electronic gizmos for this very purpose. The copper lands usually peel of quite easily with a bit of patience & the board cleans up when lightly rubbed over with a file.  Some electronic supply shops do keep blank epoxy board but it's very expensive.  BEB, I type is slower than you. Edited By PatMc on 19/07/2011 00:29:24
  18. PatMc
    It might not be anything to do with high G manoeuvres simply the transition from tick-over to full throttle causing the carb to lean the engine too much before the revs can pick up. With a half empty tank, try running the motor at tick-over for 15 - 20 secs then fully open the throttle. If it doesn't cut repeat with a full tank. If it now cuts it's probably a leak in the tank pressure somewhere - either the tube between exhaust & engine, the filler vent isn't properly blanked off or the silencer to engine joint is leaking.If it cuts in both cases try opening the throttle very gradually. If this improves or cures the pick-up then the slow running jet is probably too lean. However MDS have a tendency to leak air through the front bearing after a bit if wear so fixing the problem might not be economical.  BTW you can prove whether negative G has any bearing by half rolling inverted at the height you would start the bunt & doing an inverted bunt     
  19. PatMc
    There are no degrees of "dead" it's a binary condition.
  20. PatMc
    Just scrape off the copper. Alternately cut the horn from the pcb, immerse it in some ferric chloride solution for 20 mins or so until the copper has dissolved then wash it with plain water.
  21. PatMc
    Here's some photos of how I did it for my Veron Robot.  The surface of the hatch is from 1/16" ply the rest from soft scrap balsa, the retainer & front peg are from scraps of epoxy board. There are 4 scraps of block balsa inside the compartment as stops. The hatch was extended by about 15mm to give more finger room & the retainer screw goes into the u/c ply mounting plate.If I were doing it again I'd use a button magnet & scrap of soft iron instead of the rear retainer. HTH, Pat
  22. PatMc

    PatMc posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  23. PatMc

    PatMc posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  24. PatMc

    PatMc posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  25. PatMc

    PatMc posted a gallery image in Member Albums

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