John Rudd

Yes, I had thought that it might be M1.6 but had not got round to measuring or gauging the hole size.... So I think buying some M1.6 screws is in order.... Many thanks...

Gents, thnx for the replies. the tapped hole is less than 2.00mm, so its not an M2 thread.... Retapping is an option that I'll keep in mind.

I recently changed the gear sets to metal types on my Emax servos. I find the original horn fixing screw doesn’t fit. Does anyone know what the thread size is on the brass shaft?

Oh dear, shame it clashes with the Reno air races that week.....so, do I go to the fly in or Reno? Hmm....choices choices...

Running in parallel gets my vote.....

Slight differences in diodes' forward voltage characteristics will cause at least one of them to overheat.... Adding a small resistor to each will lead to better current sharing.....( similar to adding small resistances to transistors in series pass voltage regulator circuits where the series element  comprises two or more devices...) Edited By John Rudd on 16/03/2019 14:46:13

Are these power supplies linear transformer based or switch mode? Either way, there ought to be a means of reducing the output voltage to a more acceptable level..... Failing that a shunt regulator could be constructed and used to power the more voltage sensitive charger...( more robust than using diodes...) Edited By John Rudd on 16/03/2019 14:39:47

First and foremost....tapers are not meant to be struck to make them fit together.....the best way is to place a piece of soft wood on the drill table, place chuck on spindle and feed the spindle down thus pressing the chuck onto the wood.... The best way to check for fit is to use Micrometer blue on the shaft and see how much is deposited on the chucks mating taper...( experience here would help) The spindle taper should be a ground finish, similar to the bore of the chuck. If machined correctly, there should be no discernable run out( subject to the tolerances of the machining if the rest of the machine!) I'd wait to see what the service dept say before progressing...

The Sieg machine referred to is the latest version, running a 500 watt brushless motor, classed as the 7 x 14...well worth the asking price.

Posted by John Duncker on 14/02/2019 15:23:17: the base lathe is made by Sieg. It is clear that they are thrown together at the factory by workers on piecework they do work 'out of the box' as they are no longer thickly smeared with heavy grease but just a light coating of an anti rust agency. However accuracy and finish quality can be improved by careful adjustements. Well documented on many sites as well as Youtube. On what evidence do you base that statement, that they are thrown together? As a Sieg minilathe owner I feel I must defend this particular product of theirs....I've had no issues at all with mine, nor with the minimill that I subsequently bought...As a time served engineering apprentice, I have the experience and lnowledge on how to use these machines, not someone who has bought on a whim to make a few bits for model aircraft..... If you buy a mini lathe from one of the reputable suppliers (Arceurotrade...no affiliation, just a satisfied customer....) their minilathe does not require any setup at all or any careful adjustments....Ketan the owner of Arc has a very close relationship with Sieg, so a purchase from him is likely to be of the highest quality...

Geoff, Arceurotrade sell the Sieg SC3 mini lathe, I think they may have on offer atm....They advertise over on the model engineer forum. I have one, lots of tooling and extras, great little machine and has a brushless motor too. Be careful, some of the other minilathes have dc brushed motors and are prone to failing motors/speed controllers....

I actually bought an artf from my lhs, it came with two same handed wings!

STF, Apologies,( I get carried away at times..) the guys are right, if you use a ready made Arduino platform with in built usb support then no need for an external programner/jnterface... Its when you start programming Atmel micros from the ground up its starts getting complicated... Stick with Phil 's advice on learning how to blink a led, change a few things around or add more leds and see what happens is the way to go..Its all fun..

Arduino programmers are based on USB to ttl UART. Typical chip to use would be an FTDI 232or something similar....An internet search will provide necessary schematics, although you will need the driver for which ever chip you use...

I thought you might chip in Phil... (Chippie.....RCMF..)

STF, There are a number of pic programmers available from various sources on the internet, ebay for one. Beware not all pic programmers will program all currently available pic micros. Pic micros have their own set of instructions, these can be downloaded from Microchips website... Once your asm code (assembly language) has been compiled, it can be programmed into the chip...Microchip have their own compiler which is a free download....MPLAB is their development environment Difference between pic and Arduino? The Arduino chips are Atmel based micros too, again have their own instruction set and require a different programner. Arduino chips can be likened to the old pic micros programmed with picbasic and such, but have a different bootloader, again the Arduino has its own development environment... It really comes down to horses for courses and what you want to achieve.....

Posted by rcaddict on 30/01/2019 14:54:28: i changed a 30a esc simonk to a 30a HK esc due to a broken wire and i have to say the extra power from the HK was extremely noticeable so much so that the 1000mah battery drained in no time both esc were 30amp constant with 40amp burst motor turnigy 2826 2200kv prop 7 x 5 what different esc settings would cause this ? It can only be down to the characteristics of the speed controller.....there is no extra power....the battery is the power source, the motor is the load....how the power is transferred into the load or how the load draws power from the source is governed solely by the speedo....An ammeter in series with the battery leads will tell you that the motor is drawing the same current....,(Kirchoff's Law)

Martin, This may sound as aggressive action, go straight to Visa, explain the position and let them advise....Paypal are useless...Its not your fault the goods were damaged in whatever way and why should you return it at your expense? Take no prisoners is my approach...be ruthless... Edited By Steve Hargreaves - Moderator on 12/01/2019 21:38:56

Posted by FlyinBrian on 30/12/2018 08:31:28: Peter Sorry have not read whole thread but how controllable are these heaters, can you keep them running all the time at a low setting? say 10 ceg C to prevent damp and condensation. Ta The heaters are not designed for low turn down....doing so causing them to carbon up due to the lower temperatures....hence the minimum 2kw setting..

Its all well and good repairing a model....but do remember, any repair will add weight and may not always be any stronger than the original fuselage... I've made new fuselage parts by copying the outline of the original and making new...Was it worth the effort? Depends if you like the plane enough....In my case, I'd say so.

There is also Modelfixings, they supply bearings for most popular engines... I'd sooner support them,than the likes of your bearing factors..just to keep modelling suppliers in business.. Our hobby is of litle consequence to someone like simply bearings... Just my humble opinion...

Have a read here... https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=139165 about the comments made...

I thought they took an 8-10 cell sub c pack....?

The beep noise comes from the motor, not the speedo....does the motor work in isolation? Ie does it run with a supply connected to it...( Safety first....take the prop off until you get it all working..)

You will find R8 tooling better suited, R8 collets taking up less headroom than an MT 3 collet holder.