flight1
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Everything posted by flight1
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If you don't know already there are a couple of builds on the rcscale builder site you would need to register to access buts it's a very good site for scale builds and info Also there is the Brian Taylor version (better i think) a bit bigger but I still think in your engine range 35cc see sarik Edited By flight1 on 03/04/2020 18:22:01 Edited By flight1 on 03/04/2020 18:23:53
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Forum members' new models: Let's see them.
flight1 replied to Paul Marsh's topic in All Things Model Flying
don't think so . i have some how uploaded a very small picture thats for my TX here is a better picture I haven't had a t/stroke for a while what's size fuel tank for a os 46LA? 90ml? Edited By flight1 on 02/04/2020 19:27:39 -
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Forum members' new models: Let's see them.
flight1 replied to Paul Marsh's topic in All Things Model Flying
well got this mustang profile nearly done thans to this lock down, might have not got done otherwise . Don't know what kit it is 52.5 inch wing span the instructions were not complete and very faided and moldy as been hanging aroung in a loft for about 20 years before given to me to do, i hope it flys -
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The P J post is only picking out one paragraph of the the text the rest is right enough for our doings. One thing to point out about that paragraph some planes are built unstable to make the more aerobatic/movable take for instance the euro fighter is so unstable a computer flight control is required to fly it. hay ho lets not get distracted, this is about wash out and how to achieve it in the build. The main point of washout is stop the whole stalling at the same time. if the inner part of the wing stalls first you give some notice of it without the dramatic effect if it all stalled in one go. the outer wing has far more 'leverage'.
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What 1/4 scale plane is it and what plan is being used could lead to more useful info. The tapered strip placed under the trailing edge of the ribs from the wing tip rib to where you want the twist to start, and with the bottom spare flat on the board is the most common method. Don't forget not to glue the tapered bit of wood to the wing in the build process
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because many have explaiined this before me and better here is a link to read to explain it and how to with digrams from vaily aviation this one hope it hepls
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oh well watched the videos now waiting for the pacel man as got two projects stalled as run out of the paints required ones the top coat and the other is primer which I could just nip down the car place to get but can't it's all so fustraiting!! As for nostalgic and Tiger moths my be I should fit a tail hook to mine and get back into some aerotow when this is all over (but how do I tow myself up?) it's all replumbed and serviced( got a pilot too) and ready to go for the season Edited By flight1 on 30/03/2020 12:08:03
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Just seen this from radiocarbonart have released a coulple of free videos/podcasts of slope soring series to relieve virus lockdown boredom see this link **LINK**
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I don't see any fight just different ideas and approaches anyway back to the op question 1. you could try a the peper pots they do make a difference also the prop can make a difference if you can fit a bigger prop at slower rpm to do the same job.( some makes are quiter) 2. check the airframe/cowl is not vibrating to much and generating some noise , cheep well nuts or similar can help. 3. whats very much overlooked is the noise from the carb intake on a 2t can emmit a lot of noise, try a veturi and filter material over the intake not as a air filter as such but to muffle the noise 4. all the little improvements can ad up. 5. make the pits mufferler out of copper instead of stainless (it will make a lot softer noise) in doing so increace the diameter of the pipe that comes off the manifold part by as much as that will fit and install baffle material some thing like this will for an idea saves fabricating to much the diy solutions are much cheeper than buying just my penny's worth anny question? Edited By flight1 on 28/03/2020 10:48:36 Edited By flight1 on 28/03/2020 11:03:17
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well typical! just looked at the weather forecast and it's going to be sunny flying weather for a while and was looking forward to getting some flying time in and now fully restricted. could flying be regarded and necessary for medical reasons (sanity/ metal health)? This virus is here to stay no matter what we do and unfortunately we all need to catch it to build up Immunity and hopefully not succumb to it in the process. All we are doing is lowing the amount of people who have it at one time so the medical facilities are not completely overwhelmed. Well off to walk the dog she is stairing at me with that look and doesn't give to hoots about it all (so is ignorance bliss??)
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read here to get your c of g . very usefull info and how to calculate and here is good read too Edited By flight1 on 23/03/2020 17:50:42
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i would check a few things first before carb refurbish ie. pipe work and tank set up first then check needle settings as for keeping the diafams in good order i Give a little squirt of silicone oil spray (pure nothing else) in the all the carb's holes once / twice a year/ before Storage keeps it al ltip top. Lidle (baufix silicone oil spray)had some again which i have been using , just don't use multi oils etc just pure silicone oil spray. PS. don't get it on anything you want to glue or paint Edited By flight1 on 22/03/2020 11:18:37
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All i can say about is Don't panic mr mainwaring! A bit of common sence is all that is required wash hands etc and if any cough cold type symptoms , self isolate to protect others and go flying if no symptoms, as that will proberly be the safest place to be out in the middle of a field in the fresh air and away from the masses.
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Well I would make my own as each model will have different checks to be done. so a quick list goes something like this and probably would be the same for all radio makes 1 Bind TX RX/ check battery Voltage is suitable for bot RX and servos etc 2 with the control surfaces not connected- check correct control direction 3 connect surfaces- set surfaces centers mechanically then digitally. 4. set max end points. 5 mixes to suit models 6 check it all Edited By flight1 on 06/03/2020 11:03:54
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see this build thread ,had it in my saved links when trying to choose my next project(built up wings version) hope it helps Edited By flight1 on 28/02/2020 08:49:58
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You can just use one larger Life battery with the tech -areo say a 3000mha or two smaller with a fall over switch works well. ( the tech-aero ibec is just for running the ignition with very good filters) I order my tech aero iBec direct from manufacture with no hassles. its a pity no suppler here (P.s don't use lipos in this case as you have standard voltage servos which won't thank you for the 8v ) Edited By flight1 on 20/02/2020 16:05:29
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Well the first decision to be made is to determine the operating spec of your ignition and what voltage your servos operate at , then batteries can be chosen . Any new larger model I am doing now I am going HV servos and ignition and life batteries as can safely be charged in the model . Also you'll need a opto isolator for the ignition. i am using a ultra IBEC from Tech-aero which has proven to be very reliable others i have had have faild so the extra few quid is worth it to me.
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It sounds like you have not set the failsafe so when you turn the tx off it reverts to original setting set the failsafe and see . Turning the TX off before the RX is never agood idea for such reason as this. I must say it a shocker when the electric motor starts at full throttle an flys acros the table at you when first setting up, lurnt my lesson and set up with prop off .
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Well most of our rc equipment comes from China so If we ship it our selves thats each persons risk and it easy to get the revelent info with out needless speculation. See this direct link about the FS-6i compliance from Flysky web site it is all you need for other radios see including the great Paladin PL18 Here and each RX there to as for the radio flying on a budget it is a good deal Fly sky make good reliable gear The Ce sticker means that the manufactuer is stating that it complies with eu regulations anyone can stick it on but a certificate to back it up is required too. So Op (Bonzo) you can fly now without speculation now Edited By flight1 on 15/02/2020 13:06:45
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Well that is old theory and keeps being repeated by tv etc, wind tunnel tests have showen that the air that splits at the leading edge some going over and some under dosent actually reach the trailing edge at the same time . The air under the wing is compressed slowing it down and pushing the surface up see this for proper show Its the compression thats pushes you up not the vacume sucking you up And I thought it was done and dusted by now Edited By flight1 on 13/02/2020 17:26:55
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I have seenit on ytube looks very good I've been tempted but sercome stance has not come around. I think you have spelled it incorectly spelled see Glocknerhof on ytube if I'm correct looks fantastic location
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i find 400mah a good all round charging figger for nimh packs for Rx and TX's. When i have had false peak detect charging problems on two ocaisions it was a bad switch, another time a poor connector (all having slightly higher impedance than a good version and you also get problems when you have a doggy cell in the pack which has happened to me only with new or just about new packs. if you can get to each cell and test voltage if you have a doggy cell it will have a lower voltage than the others after a little use. To get at the ends of each battery without ripping the nice shring wrap I use small pins to pock through the insulation tto make contact with the terminals. Only last weekend a new member lost his trainer due to one cell failing and the anoying thing about it he was on finals and litery only needed 2/3 seconds of power and all would have been good (battery was checked on first flight and this was the second short flight)
