Barnstormer 52

I've dug out the 51 year old Barnstormer 52" plan - 12s 6d. It's not going too badly........ Going to put ailerons on it. Fuselage built in the style of the larger versions. Wasn't going to post the last one as my workshop looks such a mess, but just saw pictures of others that look as bad...   Edited By Barnstormer 52 on 04/05/2020 17:22:19 Edited By Barnstormer 52 on 04/05/2020 17:23:20

Hi I am looking for a copy of Flying Scale Models May/June 1999 Flying Scale Models Dec 2010 if anyone happened to have either. Many thanks Geoff

I play golf and I'm also a modeller. Our flying site is closed. The golf course is closed despite the fact that it been arranged so that nothing would have to be touched. With common sense both activities could be carried out while maintaining social distancing. The course has to be maintained, I agree the strip does as well. Sadly it seems mostly as though common sense has gone out of the window. I cannot see how one guy in the middle of a field with a lawn mover is hampering the effort to keep Covid-19 at bay. If it was for just a few weeks it would be manageable. Maybe wait till Easter, the 3 weeks will be up - and although it's doubtful - maybe restrictions might be eased just a tad to allow activities like mowing the strip to take place. Or perhaps may ask local Council or Sports Council? Surely maintenance of a facility is allowable, our local sailing club is closed, but surely if you had a vessel afloat checking the moorings and pumping out the bilges to prevent it from sinking would be allowed? I am sure that if this goes on till the end of the summer a lot of other things that haven't been thought of yet will become issues.

Hi Ken A bit off topic, but this might be of interest to your client. In WW II my father was a flight engineer on a Halifax mk III. Stationed out in Heliopolis Egypt. Attached is a picture of him underneath the nose of of a Mk III a veteran of 2 Squadron. I'm not sure if it was named 'Digger & The Free French' or if he was just referring to the crew. You can clearly see a Kangaroo and the insignia of the Free French Air force painted on the nose. The back of the photograph also says it had completed 13 night missions and 7 day time - and is obviously still in one piece There is also an interesting video on Youtube which I imagine your client may have found, all taken inside a Halifax. link -  https://youtu.be/2zypfAVMRJc Regards Geoff   Edited By Barnstormer 52 on 28/03/2020 16:03:43 Edited By Barnstormer 52 on 28/03/2020 16:10:41

Hi Probably overkill - but 18mm plywood board with 10mm Sundeala board (used for model railways) stuck with contact adhesive and then screwed to some 4" x 2" to make sure it stays 'straight & level' Geoff

I think most lcd screens suffer from viewing angle issues ”LCD displays have a limited viewing angle. They lose contrast and become hard to read at some viewing anglesand they have more contrast and are easier to read at others. The size of the viewing angle is determined by several factors, primarily the type of LCD fluid and the duty cycle.” Geoff

Martin Thank you. I did read the thread through before starting but it difficult to remember everything. Thanks again Geoff Harris

Hi Martin Apologies the figures weren't exactly what was on the display just an indication of the options. The volts are actually 12.0 the unit is connected to a 12v power supply and also has been on an 85ah leisure battery I am probably wrong but I don't think the issue is volts, it's as though i'm stuck in a menu and not back at the top level? Geoff Edited By Barnstormer 52 on 26/01/2020 21:08:25

Hi Martin On power up the 'ok' button would display 4.3 hz 11.3 volts 13 deg C - which I take to be the ambient temp E - 00 this is the same if the unit is set going Regards Geoff

Hi I have pretty much the same model as in Peter's videos - but when I use the up and down arrows on the LCD panel it seems to alter Mghz 4.3 up and down 0.1 at a time. Other than using the long press on the down arrow and the 'ok' button to prime the unit I haven't pressed anything or altered settings. Can anyone help. The remote doesn't pair but I think that is a flat remote battery - 8v The unit runs and fires up ok, and pumps out heat but I don't seem to be able to set the desired temp. Regards Geoff Edited By Barnstormer 52 on 26/01/2020 18:30:05 Edited By Barnstormer 52 on 26/01/2020 18:30:36

Posted by Ian Harris 7 on 24/12/2019 01:25:47: Hi all. Decided I had to subscribe to RCM&E, and found this forum as a result. Some very interesting discussions. I ran a hobby shop in Melbourne (Australia) for a few years, but ended up closing the doors as I could not compete with online retailers. It was supposed to be my retirement income and something to do in my autumn years, but now I'm now properly retired, and have a boatload of aeromodelling gear (ex shop stock) in my garage, enough to keep me going for a few years yet. Anyway, I do a bit of flying, but my main passion more recently has been making my own transmitter. I have always been a mad single stick fan, and flew one for years back in the day ('70's and '80's). Nobody makes them any more of course. The last one I heard of was actually an Australian company called Silvertone. But their gear was very expensive, and proudly computer free, so not really competitive. I don't think they sell R/C gear any more, they are more involved with UAVs for commercial applications. I still have my old Heathkit 8 channel single stick, and attempted to fit a Microstar 2000 in it some years ago, without success. It just got too hard and I gave up on it. Now with Arduinos and other cheap microcontroller boards life is a lot easier. I have one SS tranny working, an Ace 5 channel of unknown vintage. I replaced the RF module with a Frsky Hack module and flew that successfully. Then I replaced the encoder board with an Arduino Nano that I programmed myself, and that now has many flights to its credit. Runs like a Swiss watch. I also have some other old SS Txs, including two of what I consider to be the Rolls Royce of SS Txs, one Futaba 8SS-AP (aero version) and one 8SS-HP (heli version). Both have stick units that are derived from the original Chidgey stick (Rolls Royce of sticks). Both in pristine condition. I have a third that I hacked mercilessly trying to shoehorn Taranis electronics into it. Again it all became too hard and it has been relegated to the unfinished projects box. The stick unit from it, however, is now part of my latest project. My plan though is to convert both the Futabas to 2.4G, but keep them as original as possible. So I will be hiding the screen in the back, under the existing cover. Maybe. I could never find an appropriate sized box for a transmitter, and my attempts to make one (from aluminium) usually ended in an unsatisfactory state (read complete cockup). Even with professional help. Then I discovered 3d printing. I've designed and printed several prototypes, and I now almost have a working SS Tx. Futaba stick, Taranis electronics, 3d printed sliders, and trim switches from the Taranis. I've got it to the point where everything fits in the box, but I have to extend the length of some of the connecting wires to the controls (sliders and switches). My soldering skills are hobby level at best, so I'm approaching that particular job with a bit of trepidation. Currently trying to make my own trim switches, as my next Tx will not have a donor Taranis. The nebulous plan living in the back of my head is to use a Quanum 3 axis stick from HK (regrettably discontinued now, luckily I bought two when they were available), 32 bit microcontroller board (probably ST or Arduino Due, I've got a few different ones), Nextion colour touch screen, FrSky 2.4G hack module, home brew sliders, toggle switches from local electronics shop, and 3d printed box. And, of course, home brew encoder firmware. And yes, I confess I do have a bit of a penchant for doing things the hard way! I'm also toying with the idea of using raw 2.4G tranceivers (available from Banggood for about $AUD4, or about GBP2.1). Tons of range, some experimenters have achieved 1.6Km with them. And straight digital, each frame can contain up to 32 bytes of payload data. Frame rates well in excess of 100 frames/sec are, in theory at least, easily achievable, so even if half the frames were dropped you still get the same frame rate as most modern transmitters have anyway. And not a PPM signal in sight. Well, this turned out to be a bit longer than I thought it was going to be. Apologies for the War and Peace. Cheers, Ian Ian You are really putting the 'E' back into RCM & E Merry Christmas Geoff (Harris)

Posted by Nigel R on 20/12/2019 10:21:24: "BUT BE WARNED: I tried to download the zipped plan on outerzone (free plans) site on Wednesday evening, using the link to the winnzip app on the Outerzone page with the plan" Hi 2W, Outerzone only hosts PDF files; they don't link to the winzip app or zip files. I'd suggest something else has happened to your PC before you got to the Outerzone site. I would suggest possibly that the problem was the link offering a download a copy of winzip As Nigel says the plans are pdf's Geoff Edited By Barnstormer 52 on 20/12/2019 12:56:27

I passed my driving test on 1st July 1969 having achieved the ripe old age of 17 on the 4th of April. The test was at Acton which was considered, by my class mates at Holland Park School, to be the graveyard - you were sure to fail. On the advice of my driving instructor, Victor Nagel of BSM South Kensington, I used indicators throughout the test and performed hand signals virtually all the way through it, the theory being that the examiner was then unlikely to ask you to perform hand signals which may have come at a difficult point in the test. While doing a right turn in Acton High Street I had wound down the window and had my arm out of it giving a right turn signal and I noticed that I had forgotten to put the indicator on, I momentarily took my left hand off the steering wheel to put the indicator on which must have gone unnoticed as I passed.

Hi Wondered if anyone could help with this. The motor is supplied with the drive shaft showing at one end only. I wanted to know if anyone had ever changed the arrangement of the drive shaft so the motor could be fitted in a model the other way round? I hopefully have attached some pictures., the shaft would not reach the back of the cooling part of the housing, but the grub screws would fit in the flats at either end of the shaft ok. I have phoned Ripmax but they said they have never been asked before and have fwd my question to Japan Many thanks Geoff