Briman

I also maidened my Acro Wot yesterday. Apart from the torque catching me out on take-off and some minor trim adjustments she flew extremely well on the ASP 70FS. Even landing was nice and gentle possibly because I still had the running in 12x6 prop on and my son had managed to set the tickover nice and low. One of the club members recommended not using the 13x8 prop which I planned to fit after running in so I'll have to think about prop sizes a bit more. cheers, Brian

Posted by John Allen on 05/10/2012 20:30:43: Anybody else get a rudder "without" the pre-drilled hole? No but the hole did take quite a lot of finding eventually with a bright light. cheers, Brian

Thanks Colin.

Thanks Colin. Does this snake need to be supported in the middle as I'm reluctant to remove any covering. thanks, Brian

I appear to be monopolising this thread just now! Can anyone suggest a good rigid alternative to the stock elevator connecting rod? The wooden dowel appears to be catching on one of the formers somewhere in the depth of my fuselage. thanks, Brian

Thanks Robin. I was leaning towards crossed but thought I'd ask the experts first. cheers, Brian

Can anyone confirm how the closed loop rudder system should be arranged - parallel(ish) wires or crossed? The reason I ask is that a crossed system would have the wires directed at better angles and not bent round various internal formers etc as in a parallel arrangement. thanks, Brian

Thanks Brian. I read through the Solartfilm info on the web and did some experimentation yesterday and starting at 100 C moved up to 140 C which worked fine on the bubbles. Not so good on the wrinkles though which my old iron produced. They may be beyond fixing, but I'll keep experimenting. cheers, Brian

Thanks Ken. I'll check out the Profilm web site as I have just bought a fancy Prolux digital iron which displays the temperature so that - hopefully - I can set it just right. cheers, Brian

Does anyone know the covering type on the Acro Wot ARTF so that I know what temperature to set my covering iron to get rid of the bubbles? thanks, Brian

Thanks for your various thoughts gents. I reckon that I will get my Acrowot ARTF built first, fit the ASP 70 FS and then take it to our club where I can run in the ASP on one of the flight benches. I can then take advantage of all the help available from the more experienced club members. cheers, Brian

I was searching the web for info on building a test stand to run in my new ASP 70 FS when I noticed this post: one thing about test stands for breaking in engines is that the latest talk is that test/breakin stands are not good for engines. except the PSP vibration mount stand that simulates the engine mounted in an air frame. DLE and several other say dont break in an engine on a stand. The thoughts are that a heavy aluminum mount that mounted to a heavy base doesnt allow the engine to rock and vibrate the same as mounted in a light weight air frame. the engine will be broken in with no movement then ran in an airframe that allows the engine to move a lot. Has anyone seen anything else on this topic or have an opinion on the validity of the argument? cheers, Brian

Thanks ED. I'll check out alternative tubing as suggested. cheers, Brian

Ah! All is revealed. Thanks Myron. I was thinking about the silicon tube not the metal fittings. Thicko! cheers, Brian

Thanks Lee and Myron. Myron, what exactly do you mean by deburr? cheers, Brian

Thanks flytilbroke I'll go with your suggestion. I was just a bit worried about starving the engine with too narrow tubing. cheers, Brian

After two years of flying electric foamie parkflyers I have decided to take the plunge and find out what this IC stuff is all about. So, I have just taken delivery of an Acrowot ARTF along with an ASP 70 fourstroke. My question is what is the correct size of fuel tubing? I have seen 3/32 and 1/8 for sale and I assume that this is the inner diameter, but which is appropriate for my Acrowot? Is 1/8 only for bigger models requiring a higher fuel flow rate? Thanks, Brian

Hi Dave, My PZ P47 also has a tendency to nose over and I have fitted the flaps. What I have done is physically adjusted the elevator travel to max and set up Flight Mode 2 on my Hitec Aurora 9 so that I have maximum elevator deflection on this switch and normal elevator on normal. It helps but not all the time. Perhaps you can set up dual rates or something if you are on a different TX. cheers, Brian

I have the SAA Bronze, which I assume is equivalent to the BMFA A. Our club insist on this for solo flying and it is really just a check of basic control and safety. cheers, Brian

I've known David N via another forum for a couple of years and he would not raise issues such as these unless he had very good reasons. He is not the wingeing or moaning for no reason type. cheers, Brian

I have used this company quite a few times as they are often the only company listing certain items. As mentioned above the problems occur when items are out of stock. Their customer updates could definitely be better and often you have to chase them up. If items are in stock there are no problems. cheers, Brian

One of our club members spotted the P38 flying south over our club field just outside Aberdeen at round about 2pm yesterday and we speculated why it was in our part of the world. All has now been revealed. cheers, Brian Edited By Briman on 27/06/2012 11:40:13

How about the E-flite UMX Beast David? The AS3X means that it can handle some wind and as you get used to her you can even move on to 3D. You can also use your DX6i. cheers, Brian Edited By Briman on 10/06/2012 16:56:01

Ok Gary. I had thought that Hanger 9 were part of the Horizon Hobby stable who have always given me very good service. Can you take up the issue of poor design with Hanger 9 direct or perhaps HH can do this on your behalf as their reputation will suffer if they are distributing poorly designed planes. cheers, Brian

Have you contacted Horizon Hobby about this failure Gary? cheers, Brian