jeff2wings

So the wing,at first look it appeared to be OK apart from some lose covering from having been patched up ,however apparently it's had a major prang and then left in a (very) damp shed resulting in discoloration of the wood and rusting of metal fittings I.e. anchor nuts and those torque rods A bit grotty! and that's why the ailerons where abit on the stiff side both wingtips had repair work done, note lead !

In the last two pictures you can see I've removed the decking behind the wing and cut away the top part of the former, you can see the weak spot where the rear frame joins the sheet front end. here I've added a 1/4 doubler across the joint also you can see the noch for the aileron torque rods,more on that later Front of fuselage covered tank hatch made rear part painted and tail surfaces recovered with some old Powermax polyetex (think that's what it was called)

Having finished the Flair D7&Legonaire and with no prospect of flying them (or anything else for that matter) I thought I have a go at this one, brought along with a super sixty off 'that' site more for it's wheels than anything else, rather than with a view too getting it airworthy. So the World Models Blue Max is pioneer styled model based (if not directly copied) on the American RCM plan of Miss Scarlet that's on outerzone. I'm sure this won't take to much work. Probably. So off we go,I did start this in April (no,not the 1st) as it arrived this is where I find a various of holes and a oil soaked front end Some of thats from the wings! time to cut and shut inner lightply doubler ready for new foam tank platform with space for battery more later

A very neat job there Matt ,brazing ally is not the easiest of things to do particularly when joining thick/thin materials, I will stick to TIG welding my silencers! I think my approach would be take rpm db readings with the std setup and then experiment with different baffling/outlets maybe starting with blocking one outlet, one thing I do know from past experience back in the '70's when the club I was in then and looked into this issue ,there's no substitute for volume.

Flair legionnaire

My powerhouse done in the same, works well easier than nylon and takes less dope to fill the weave

Think I have the plan for this somewhere, a freebee from RCM&E?? Another one for my 'too build' list lol !

not realy,it's a Dobro snap link not some cheap chinese tat and if the aerodynamic forces are that high as to it open,then it probably means the wings have come off at that point,so I don't think any amount of control waggling will remedy the situation.And I don't think a bit of elasticated tube is going to help matters any! lol 🤣

Engine,fuel tank andnow in then just the wheels,windscreen,pilot and set up left !👍 had to add support here

LO! That's both of us then,also known as captive nuts nuts or blind nuts

Surprised no one suggested T-nuts ? Looks like there is sufficient access to position them

HA! amateur LOL🙂 this one was built by a club mate back in the early '90's and was the 'gifted' to me 🤨 ten years later................... almost finished !!

So the ailerons are now working as they should with the added bonus of being able to add differential if needed, just need to apply insignia, finish the N struts then onto fitting out.

I would use the lost foam method, abit more effort maybe but a much more robust

So there I was happily covering the wing.... .......enjoying my new detail iron........ thinking that it's all going rather well and started attaching the top covering, when I had a thought 🤔 it's been three years since I've installed the aileron system, maybe I should check it out?. Well it turned out to be a bit on the slow side and not centering due to friction and the old(but new) linear servo ,so need to chuck in a couple of servos that were made this century 😄 rather than mess about sticking them out in the wing where the bellcranks are I put the HK servos here,if I need access to them I can open up the top

Wing now fully repaired and sanded down ready for covering when my new iron arrives so back to the fuselage tailplane finally glued on ! Removed the wire tail skid whose main purpose was to punch holes in anything nearby and fit a tail wheel ,at least I will be able to taxi it too where I want it to go rather than where it thinks it should be 😆 also made this storage/travel fixture need to add tailplane strut/bracing wire then onto servo/pushrod install

Thanks Steve, I may get to finish it this time without further extended 'rest' periods! 😂 definitely a better arrangement than the original kit way of doing it, now I can cover the wing and start final assembly, radio and engine installation

Well another one one of threads rises from the dead 💀😄 ! Can't remember exactly why I put it to one side but maybe that I was never that happy with the centre section struts, always thought it poorly engineered.So I revised it too a more stable arrangement.

I have a couple of low time sc 25's if interested, or I may have a ss 25 somewhere in my collection 🤔

Thanks ED ,it's funny you should mention that,I did buy a kit from Chronos with the blue dye with which I tried to do the crankcase/ front, but with a less than satisfactory results,most of the dye being washed out in the sealing process, so it was into the bead blaster which looks o.k. I obviously need to experiment with it and find out where I'm going wrong 🤔 but at least it runs! Nice work Tim you are half way to making a complete engine! Maybe you should have a go?

And just to show it's not just a paperweight

Latest engine build freelance 10cc ,HP 61 crankshaft and Webra liner I am getting nearer to fulfilling my ambition of flying a o/d model with an engine i have made

So I've been doing a quick refurbishment (🤣🤣 nothing I do is quick!) On a genuine KK super sixty that is covered in doped nylon or polyester 'silk ' and for some reason decided it would be a good idea to remove the old fuel proofer/paint/dope with thinners, a decidely messy job.Now this turned out o.k, none of the covering came away and remained tight. it needed doing, no,really it did ! not the best picture but you can see the difference with the doculam and uncovered section Again not the best picture, completed underside.So instead of sticking the tissue/nylon/silk over the doculam try it the other way round for a instant fuel proof finish,with a saving on dope as you only need apply a couple of coats of 50/50 to tighten and no fuel proofer. When I have finished all the covering I'll post some more pictures

Interesting Tim,although I don't think the cdi will do much for the engines power to weight ratio ?🤔 probably better than the motorcycle coil though 😆! My O&R 23 (repo) had damaged points, as in one of the contacts had broken off, probably why it had glowplug in it when purchased, btw don't use methanol in original plastic tank as it will damage it moving contact point with the new tungsten pad silver soldered on Minimag coil/condenser luckily got two off fee-bay worth looking out for

Well it runs but the compression is a bit soft will have to check head volume and squish clearance 20230327_160009_001.mp4