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Steve Hargreaves - Moderator

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Everything posted by Steve Hargreaves - Moderator

  1. I had a similar experience some years ago with my Mini Tyro which has a similar power to weight ratio to your Junior 60... see here ..... & spookily came up with a similar figure..20 watts per pound
  2. At the request of the OP this thread has been closed.
  3. Hi John & Welcome to the forum..... There are a few threads on both models (use the search box) & indeed our very own Chris Bott has built the Whizza & BEB the Tucano so you are in the right place. I have built the Fizza which is a bit smaller than the Whizza but still a great "fly anywhere" sport model.....I don't think you'd go wrong with any of them....
  4. Hi Chris & welcome to the forum.... Hosting pics on the forum is covered here & is probably the best way to post pictures in your posts & threads. Tell us a bit more about the model...manufacturer..size etc. This wil help identify it & will help us answer your questions. I would observe that a Spitfire is most certainly NOT the best model to learn to fly with. Beautiful they may be, easy to fly they are not. Start off with a simple trainer type aircraft & save the Spit for later...
  5. If you feel like a bit of balsabashing Nigel Hawes Fizza is a great little model.....shoulder wing so easy to launch & pretty quick & manoeuverable....tough as old boots too.....200 watts up front will put a smile on it's & your face...
  6. Are you sticking with the "engine bearers & paxolin plate" as shown on the plan or are you planning to use a firewall mounted engine mount? If the latter I think you'd be wise to consider a little local strengthening to the firewall.....
  7. I've always used a 2V SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) cell for my glow plugs & it works just fine with modern plugs....yes the coil glow a little brighter than might be ideal but it guarantees an almost instant start...even with a very rich engine where the excess fuel can tend to douse & cool the element. Personally I've always found the NiMH glow sticks a bit marginal unless fully charged.... If I had a penny for every time an engine that's reluctant to start on a glow stick has fired up on my 2V SLA cell I'd easily have 17 or 18p by now.... The 2V SLA cells I use are available here. I use the 2.5Ah version at the moment but the 5Ah version probably best. As mentioned if the plug is a bit bright a nice long lead (1.5M approx) from battery to plug will calm things down.....make sure you keep the lead away from the prop of course....
  8. Plus you get to have a quick sniff of the fuel now & then as well....
  9. Looking good Luccaaa......I like a nice Mini Super.....they fly very well.... Your Irvine 20 diesel will be just fine....the first ever RC model I saw (1976) was a Mini Super...fitted with an Enya 19 glow & it flew very nicely. As Percy says you can always back off the compression a tad to lose some power but as it has a throttle I don't think this will be necessary...pop a 10x4 prop on it & enjoy....
  10. An OS46AX will turn an 11x8 no problem Denis...if it's an LA then I'd agree...an 11x6 is as big as I'd go... An interesting trick, if you can reach the fuel line feeding the engine safely is to pinch it at idle & see what happens....if it cuts out immediately it's a bit too lean.....if it revs up & then dies it's a little rich....if the revs increase a little & then die then it's a teeny bit rich & just about perfectly set.....you need it a little bit rich just coming off idle to help the motor accelerate. Have you checked the head & back plate for tightness too...? A tiny air leak can give the symptoms you describe...similarly is the carb tight in the crankcase with the 'O' ring compressed a little? What happens when you open the throttle as the engine starts to fade? Does it speed up OK or cut dead or splutter back up to speed? How old is the engine BTW..?
  11. Well, this model got another airing today. For some reason I came over all nostalgic & decided to start it with a good old fashioned hand start....I now have a good old fashioned prop cut on finger number two & have remembered why I gave up hand starting & now use an electric starter.....oooo doesn't glow fuel sting if it gets in an open cut... Anyway with the engine up & running I decided to ground run a tank through it & see what happened. The engine behaved perfectly....I ran it at full power...idle....part throttle....trying to simulate a typical flight really...it didn't miss a beat....."Great" thinks I..."...time to see if it's lost it's fear of heights". So a quick refuel sees the model accelerating down the strip, rotate & climb out....lovely....into the circuit...cut back to cruise & everything is looking good. A few loops, rolls, reversals, fast low passes, stall turns etc & the timer beeps...time to land. Lovely....I was very happy. Next flight....engine starts OK, taxis out, takes off & it's clear something is not right.....a hurried circuit & landing sees the model on terra firma & it now won't throttle up & simply cuts out as soon as you take the stick past 1/4 throttle...... No desire to check it out at the field so the model goes on the naughty step & I fly the others for the rest of the session......there has to be a bit of gunge floating around in there somewhere causing a temporary blockage. Back home & the carb is stripped......nothing...it's all clean as a whistle....Aaargghhh...it's enough to make you go electric....
  12. In need of a puller to remove the prop driver from my ASP 91FS I turned to the ever helpful forum & chose one of the pullers suggested by Engine Doctor.....it arrived today & had the prop driver off in a trice so thanks for the tip ED... As mentioned the threaded portion of the ASP crank is very long & the puller was pretty much on the limit but it worked just fine & removed the driver with a satisfying crack as the collet came free... I will just share with you the back of the packet it came in as it's the best example of Chinglish I've seen for a very long time.... Enjoy The bit you can't read at the top under the sticker says " Two Grasping Rama"....nope me neither..
  13. Here's George...my youngest & 8 years old at the time this was taken just after maidening his Chapter One that we built together.... He seems to have lost interest these days & his elder brother was never even the slightest bit interested....the Xbox seems to have a much greater draw sadly.... Good luck...it's a great hobby if you can get them into it.....it teaches so much & so many skills....
  14. Excellent news Gary....glad it went OK. Does it have a tendency to flick if you apply too much up elevator at all? I had a smaller Yak54 which was a lovely flyer but would bite & bite hard if you were a bit rough with the elevator.....note the use of the word "had" What's the power like with that engine? Does it do nice "Up" lines?...big loops?
  15. Posted by cymaz on 17/06/2018 18:58:36: I use a soldering iron for the removal of covering. I’m too frightened that I might slice right through the wood with my great mitts +1
  16. Posted by Tom Sharp 2 on 16/06/2018 22:30:09: We daren't be unfriendly on this forum, the Moderators would eat us. True....
  17. Has the model flown well before Erf? If the performance has dropped off might it just be a battery starting to die? For sure putting the blades on the right way round will certainly improve things...
  18. Welcome to the forum Brian.... I wonder if the Helicopter section of the forum might be more suitable than the Vintage RC section but lets see how it goes...I can always move you later....
  19. Really fancy one of these myself Gary so watching with interest...
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