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brokenenglish

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  1. brokenenglish

    brokenenglish posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  2. brokenenglish
    Posted by Martin McIntosh on 10/04/2020 20:38:34: By late Mk1, many years ago as a youngster I inherited a grey crankcase one, 1946 at a guess. This is of identical design but the case is black, S/No. 449-35. OK Martin, just FYI, I think the Mk I Mills 75 was released in 1948, and the Mk II in 1949. Only the machined case 1.3 was released in 1946. All original Mills 75s have a black case but, if you think you had a grey one, probably some of the black coating had worn off... I'll have a look in my box of bits. Good luck anyway!
  3. brokenenglish
    Martin, unfortunately, I don't have a spare, but what do you mean by a "late Mk I"... The Mk I Mills 75 was only made for a few weeks and, in any case, I think the Mk I and Mk II compression screws are the same. If you want an exact replica, I think it will have to be specifically turned. You won't find a commercial screw with a round head as deep as the original, and the screw head then has to be drilled and tapped for the screw-in tommy bar... As mentioned above, it would be too difficult to make from scratch, but I don't think you could modify an existing, standard 4BA screw. Edited By brokenenglish on 10/04/2020 20:03:17
  4. brokenenglish
    The alloy backplate should expand more than the steel carburettor tube, so that may be a solution. I've been playing with these old ED engines since the fifties, and I've never seen this problem, maybe someone has "misused" Loctite...
  5. brokenenglish
    Posted by Wilco Wingco on 07/04/2020 19:56:05: Does anybody know how to remove the needle valve assembly from an old ED Hornet ?   Are you joking? The carburettor tube is just a push fit in the backplate. The needle just unscrews normally (obviously). The spray-bar/fuel pickup tube can't normally be separated from the carburettor tube (without breaking it). Assuming your engine is complete, original and properly assembled, just remove the fuel needle, then the tank retaining bolt. Then remove the tank. If the carburettor tube doesn't come out with the tank, it can be pulled out easily. Edited By brokenenglish on 07/04/2020 21:10:26
  6. brokenenglish
    Posted by Ron Gray on 06/04/2020 09:54:46: Posted by brokenenglish on 06/04/2020 09:11:34: If you don't want more than that, then why mess with all this open source programming nonsense? Keep it simple! Oh dear, isn't this what was said when cars came along to replace horse and carts, steam trains replaced by diesel then electric, TVs controls with cabled remote controls then wireless remote controls? Sorry Ron, but I obviously don't find your comment valid. The comparisons you give represent real progress. But flying is flying, can you explain how my Wot 4 and Hawker Hurricane would fly better using complex transmitter programming?
  7. brokenenglish
    David, I sympathise with you! The first decision you need to make is what type of plane do you want to fly? If you're happy with "normal" flying of "normal" planes (my case), you don't need ultra-high tech telemetry and the multiplicity of functions and menus that go with it. You can buy a basic but quality transmitter and a variety of inexpensive receivers, and this will enable you to fly anything from electric gliders and vintage planes up to 20 or 30cc Warbirds. Do you want more than that? Reading these forums, I get the impression that many people simply enjoy the challenge of programming complex transmitters. I've been an aeromodeller since 1948 but I only started serious RC flying 8 years ago. I'm using a Spektrum DX6 and inexpensive Orange receivers, plus a couple of Spektrum receivers that were included with the Tx. This setup is simple to use and will fly anything from my diesel powered Junior 60 up to my Laser 75 powered Hawker Hurricane, including electric and Irvine powered Wot 4s and Acrowots If you don't want more than that, then why mess with all this open source programming nonsense? Keep it simple!
  8. brokenenglish
    For the last few years, I have a partly finished CL Peacemaker that I now intend to finish as an RC version. The wing structure is finished, but not covered and with no bellcrank mount bits. "One day", when I'm feeling brave, I shall finish it with the profile fuselage, and cutouts for he Rx and elevator servo. Mounting aileron servos in the thick wing will be dead easy of course and no rudder will be needed.
  9. brokenenglish
    Excellent plans already exist, at least for the Peacemaker, Phantom and Skystreak. All on Outerzone I think.
  10. brokenenglish
    Rather than ask this kind of question, I would prefer a PAW carb. They work really well.
  11. brokenenglish
    I've more or less stopped using clevises. Unless absolutely impossible, I use a Z bend at the control horn end and a smaller sliding clamp (stopper) in the servo arm, which has the added advantage of reducing weight at the rear of the fus.
  12. brokenenglish
    Posted by Russ P on 28/03/2020 11:24:37: Also I've found the laser cut parts do not match the plan and will need tinkering to fit. If you have an original CAP kit, they were decades before laser cutting! Probably band-sawn. I still have a CAP Tiger Moth kit that I picked up from Earlston in 1976.
  13. brokenenglish
    The Bunch engine is easily identifiable. If it really has no markings on it, it's a 1938 Bunch Mighty Midget. The Cleveland Tom Thumb engine mentioned is the same engine, but it's marked "Cleveland" on the front (on the transfer port). The one with the four-bolt head is more obscure. It looks English but that doesn't mean much. I've been collecting for nearly 60 years and I don't recall ever seeing an engine like that. Edited By brokenenglish on 21/03/2020 21:37:43
  14. brokenenglish
    OK gents, I've found the plan and article. It was in Aviation Modeller International, December 1996. I'll be back as soon as I can get a scan done.
  15. brokenenglish
    I'm pretty sure I have the magazine. I'll see what I can find...
  16. brokenenglish
    Posted by Don Fry on 07/03/2020 17:51:11: Anyone know how one of the Scots ladies came down with the dreaded disease. I heard on France Info that she went to Northern Italy with a team, to play a match that was finally cancelled. But unfortunately she caught the bug...
  17. brokenenglish
    OK, my bit of input: I'm an i.c. engine fan and always have been. However, there's no doubt that on a powered glider type of aircraft, an electric setup would be a lot more convenient to operate, not to mention the possibility of switching the power on and off at will. Even being an i.c. man, I would go electric in a powered glider. However, if you really want to use an engine, a small diesel (PAW) would be a much better bet than a reed-valve 049. Production quality isn't the issue. A reed valve with no accessible carburettor is a recipe for inconsistent running, and that's what you get. I've never understood why so many people accepted that...
  18. brokenenglish
    Once we all understand that debatable modelling projects are being used as a promotional gimmick to sell overpriced magazines for a long period, the problem goes away. You just have to see it for what it is (marketing hype) and not confuse it with real modelling projects.
  19. brokenenglish
    The best advice would be to stop "just thinking". The Como 51 was an engine produced by Super Tigre around 1980. End of story. Confused thinking around random other names that you may know is never going to change that. Like I said, Google "Super Tigre Como 51". Then click on "images" and you'll get a page full of images, some of which will be of your engine.
  20. brokenenglish
    There's no such thing as a "Merco 51"! Just Google "Super Tigre Como 51" and you'll get a load of hits.
  21. brokenenglish
    The RM giveaway in the first post, I'm still using and I shall be using it again today, usually for getting things perpendicular, and extremely useful for cutting gussets.
  22. brokenenglish
    Peter, I didn't think it would be helpful, but I have a small collection (4) of Henri Mignet's original books, all published within the period 1928-34, in French of course. I don't know what printing techniques were used, but one of them is actually a "printed" version of Mignet's handwriting. Here are a couple of pages. Note that the plane illustrated isn't a Flea. That's because this particular book covers generic theory, applicable to all HM's designs. For those interested in the French language, the headings are: 1. Plywood 2. Strip wood 3. Covering fabric 4. Cellulose dope 5. Wheels 6. Metal fittings Edited By brokenenglish on 07/02/2020 10:36:27 Edited By brokenenglish on 07/02/2020 10:40:04
  23. brokenenglish
    It's Bob Wright's design. Published in Radio Modeller December 1992, but his name is clearly printed under the plan title on my copy. Is it the original blue and red plan that you have, or has someone photocopied it? Edited By brokenenglish on 02/02/2020 21:13:56
  24. brokenenglish
    There are several Flea plans on Outerzone, it would be worth looking to see where they specify the CG.
  25. brokenenglish
    For me, "traditional build" means vintage, and there must be literally hundreds of vintage models that would be suitable for the 3S 2200 mAh.
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