Engine Doctor

Have you thought about a YS fourstroke? really powerful and utterly reliable . They are about the same price as a OS .The downside is they do like high nitro fuel . E.D

Oh and they fly well too !

Them CMPRO planes certainly do go !!!

 I think that is funny    Buy her some vouchers for the optician for Valentines day , or next time she might throw something really expensive on the fire.

Hi Bruce. What Mk of Surpass do you have ,as they have different types of pump and carb and require different plumbing ? If the pump is made of aluminium and mounted on the crankase backplate then it is a Mk 11 .The mk 11 had a small cam type screw to adjust the low end and this is extremely sensetive.  If  the pump is small and   made of plastic ,still mounted on the backplate ,then its a Mk111.This has a low end adjuster screw fitted  on the oposite side of the carb to the needle. Niether engine uses a pressure nipple on the exhaust and both require that the tank is vented . The Mk11 has a fuel return ,to the tank , and this MUST be free flowing or the motor WILL stop suddenly and can throw the prop. The MK111 does not need a fuel return but tank must be vented to atmosphere. I have both types and have found them ultra reliable . I run them on 10% nitro  and once set up need little or no adjust ment . DO use an OS plug F type glow plug . Hope this helps. Regards E.D.

 Volvo V70 D5 . Takes models up to 8' span and pulls a van (to the nats ) asif on air .Economical to 43 average 30 with the van . E.D

Hi Flanker .I'm suprised you had bad experiences with Inwoods Improver. I had a kit  bought for me about 15 years ago and enjoyed it immensely. Always a good flyer from day one me and my sons flew it and abused it for about three years. We even reduced the wingspan by about 6 inches and fitted various motors with tuned pipes . eventually sold it at the Watford swapmeet . The worst ever plane me or my sons have EVER had was the EZ Christian Eagle (the smaller one). Had to be flown like a ballistic brick .Total waste of time and money E.D

Hi Jeremy. I used the Bluebird 46 engines back in the late eighties early nineties when both me and my sons were learning to fly. They were good engines easy to start etc but fragile . The crankcase would break if you gave it a hard stare , so we got through a few . they were distributed by MFA products who I believe are situated at Deal in Kent . Might be worth giving them a look up for any remaining spares . The other common problem with the 46 was the carb barrel guide pin kept comming loose or ocassionally snapped . This left the model flying at full throttle . I still have one cut away as a desk toy ( also useful to show the workings to any interested newcomers.) Use and enjoy . Happy landings. Phil

Lucky so and so !!

Try using Clearcote  ,made by the solarfilm people . Brilliant fuel proofer The solar lac coloured paints are good but not as fuelproof as the clear . Can be thinned with cellulose thinners or acetone .  E.D

Hi John . The breather on the OS 40 just vents to air the pipe should only be a couple of inches long to shoot waste oil out of the cowl. The only adjust ments on the FS carb are the main needle and an air bleed idle mixture screw . The FS is nice runnig engine and very economical and quiet. E.D

Hi  Shaun .The crystal is under the little oblong cover I believe on the bottom right of the TX. It pulls out and holds the crystal . they can be tight .Only use Hitec crystal with the Tx . Hitec rx's work fine with futaba xtal but not the Tx.  E.D.

Hi ya Dia geezer . The main needle should be opened about 2 1/2 turns for starting then adusted with engine running at full throttle to give maximum revs then opened one click so as not to be too lean. then tune the idle needle as described earlier

Hi Ya . First check that the fuel nipple on the carb is pointing towards the front mounting screw on that side of the engine. If its not loosen the two screws slightly and it will turn easily. If thats correct then connect a clean piece of fuel tubing to the nipple and gentle suck and listen for the air going through the carb . now screw in the slow running screw , with the carb closed until the air stops . Be gentle or you will damage the jet or the screw . . Now undo the screw until you can just draw air through the jet ,this a starting point. The reason for sucking the air is to avoid spit going into the carb and blocking the jet. Now prime and start the engine allow to warm up and adjust for full throttle running .Close the throttle and allow to idle for a few seconds and open the throttle smartly . If the engine diesand sounds like its sucking air then richen the idle mixture by a 1/4 of a turn and repaet . If your engine splutters and smokes and gradually builds up speed then it is too rich . Close the jet (screw in) a 1/4 turn . When you are getting near to the correct mixtuure then adjust the mixture screw by 1/8th or 1/16th of a turn . Failing that get a mate at your club to show you . Its easy when you get the knack and learn to listen to the engine. E.D

HI Adamwhy bother with inferior kits. A friend of mine gave me a plan for a Mamsel some time ago . Simple and satisfying to build at a fraction of the cost of a kit ,if one was available. If kit manufactures cant be bothered why should we the customers be bothered to support them? hope you can sort it.

Hi Look out at super markets and at Halfords for Windscreen de-icer .usually sold in spray bottles. They quite often sell them as bogof deals at this time of year . They contain alcohol that cleans away exhaust residue really well leaving your model clean and shiny and it doesnt attack the covering adhesive. E.D.

Hi I bought a Black Horse Ultimate at the Hop Farm Bring and buy this weekend. Bargain ! £60 with two didital servos, a Futaba 9255 and a spectrum digital  and two Hitec 645 MG !  Has anyone tried to lighten the back end by changing the heavy metal push rods and tail plane supports ? Even with a 120 FS it seems tail heavy. Has anyone flown one with a 120 FS up front ,how does it go ? Regards E.D

Hi Lee. I haven't seen the YS45 fs but have used the 63fs for some time now . They are fabulous! but do like at least 20% nitro fuel. Tank wise you need a good quality tank capable of taking the 10 to 12 psi they are capable of producing .Pro-build do a really good quality tank that will handle the pressure.I believe they are made by MK . The pipes are just pushed on and the have a small wire clip over them for extra sequrity. Some of the tanks available in local shops just arn't up to a YS . What cap 232 are you fitting it in ? Regards ED

Hi Adam .I have three petrol jobs A Zenoah 45,a CCRP (Jamara)45cc and a Mckay 30cc the Zenoah has a new style Zenoah muffler which I have modified the outlet a little. That motor is very quite apart from the inlet roar. The CCRP is a very powerful motor but agian has a loud induction roar. The Mckay is in a different class and was designed for model aircraft use .This is fitted with an incowl silencer (Krumshfeld I think) supplied by stuart Mckay and is very quiet on a 20 x 6 prop; that pulled a 15 1/2 lb Cap232 vertical without excessive noise. Most of the port induction motors I have owned have had a very loud induction roar and need the air to be drawn from an air box . Another thing worth thinking about,if your using 35 mHz radio, is setting up you radio gear with a ppm reciever and doing a range check ,with engine running ,to check for and eliminate interference from the ignition circuit. Do not fly with this set up.Only when satisfied fit a good pcm with failsafe .If interference persist then try fitting an opto-isolator between your Rx and servos .Apperently ,so I am told the servo leads can act as aerials and pick up interference .Thhe opto-isolators are available from SM services and not expensive .One last thing ,all my petrol engines have taken a lot of running in.Unlike model glow motors ,petrol engines can take hours hours and get better and better . Hope it helps Regards

Hi Stephen.Acro-wot is a great flyer.I am building one at the moment fo a club mate.The problems with split and lifting veneer on the wings is common,it seems , with current Chris Foss kits.Inspect your kit at the shop before purchase . Also replace the light-ply fire wall backing with proper birch ply if using anything more powerfui than a 46. Overall , a good flying model with no vices 10/10 .kit is let down by skimping on some materials 6/10

Hi Edward.I believe solarfilm is now available in matt finish

Hi Peter you say you motor was laid up for a few years. Is it still in the original air craft ? or are you using your old fuel tank? The nitro methane used in model fuel attacks copper. The brass fuel pipes contain copper and the fuel eats this away leaving a very brittle and perforated pipes. This Could be the cause of your problem with eratic running .If you use fuel with any Nitro content ,change the tubing inthe tank to aluminium. A club mate had similar problems and when I checked the tank all the pipes were totally roten. Regards Phil

Yes Wow ! is that a road just behind the pilot ? !!!

Hi john Have a look in the gallery section .I posted a picture of my complete motor some time ago .It Is rare compared to the Comp special which it is based on. Unfortunately no parts are interchangeable other than the prop driver and spinner.Replica tanks and tank mounts are available . Regards

Yes a nicad/NiMh pack is available for your TX Most good model shops will be able to order yo one or even make a pack up for you. Overlander batteries or Weston uk will definately be able to help you.