Jump to content

AVC

Members
  • Posts

    688
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by AVC

  1. AVC

  2. AVC

  3. AVC

  4. AVC

  5. AVC

  6. I like your arrengements for the cockpit, but with that pilot you'll need to move the instruments panel a bit forward... 😉
  7. My method is highly sophisticated and requires years to really master it, as well as investment in hi-tec stuff: I use a piece of cardboard, leaflet or something similar to pour and mix the two parts. The mixture is done with a toothpick, used as well to apply the epoxy. All the assembly is then left in the building board to check the curing process of the epoxy: if the remaining in the cardboard cures correctly, I should assume that the epoxy in the union is correctly cured... Edited By AVC on 29/01/2016 14:57:57
  8. Thanks Craig. Let's be honest, I almost forgot the dowel also... Edited By AVC on 29/01/2016 14:48:03
  9. I normally don't rush myself, and also I have the bad habit to run more than one building at the time, which has been a good thing so far, but now I'm afraid I'm pushing the boundaries. My list of WIP is: - Turbulent scratch build, started August 10 (started in France in a holiday house, moved to UK in 2014) - Stampe 1/4, started in July 12 - Cessna 140 1/4, started Nov 15 (not really, just a couple of formers made...) - Ballerina, started Dec 15 - Chapter One, started last week Considering that I can only spare some time during the weekends, I really need to be focus my attention in the Ballerina now...
  10. Posted by Craig Thomas on 29/01/2016 08:24:10: I give in with the paper tubes. Tried for about half an hour to get those tubes to open up. I'm lust going to feed string through them. Might have got on a little better if I fitted them before I glued the 2 half together.   Hi Craig. Yes, it's much better to place them before joining the halves. I did it for one half but I forgot for the second one and I joined the wing. And then it was a nightmare to have the second one in place. You can simply run a thread or string through the ribs' holes, and stick it with cello tape or similar to the rib side. Then, once covered, you can extract the thread end with pliers, and tie it to the servo connector. The problem is that sometimes the connector gets stuck in one rib, and you have to "play" backwards and forwards with the thread. One question Craig (sorry if you clarified already) why the wing dowel is that long? Or is that is not still glued? In any case, your Ballerina is looking very good, much better than my first build Edited By AVC on 29/01/2016 08:36:02
  11. Posted by AVC on 28/01/2016 10:23:37: Very neat building Martyn I've got one question: do you think that the aluminum saddle and 3mm bolts are necessary, or is it "additional security"? Clearly there's nothing wrong with it and for sure you'll have issues with legs falling off, but in my eyes it looks a little bit overkilling. Marty, forget my last comment. I've read your post about removing the UC, and it makes a lot of sense to use bolts and not screws...
  12. Very neat building Martyn I've got one question: do you think that the aluminum saddle and 3mm bolts are necessary, or is it "additional security"? Clearly there's nothing wrong with it and for sure you'll have issues with legs falling off, but in my eyes it looks a little bit overkilling.
  13. Very nice building blog Chris, a lot to learn here! I still don't know how I will finish mine. I have some purple at home and bough some yellow last week, but this green you're using is quite smart, and I've never had a green model, so I may try something with it...
  14. I normally use the dowel doubler A) for reinforcement purposes and B) to "fine tune" the hole. The process is: - I cut the hole in the former so that the dowel enters with a significant gap (something around 1mm or so, I play be ear). - The hole in the doubler is much more accurate, so that the dowel fits snuggly, with minimal "play". - Then, with the wing in place and perfectly centered, and the dowel duly protected with cling film or similar, I epoxy the doubler to the former and let it dry. I've used this method in many models, with good results every time
  15. Other options that you may have for F2 are: - 2 laminations of 1/16 balsa with crossed grain, and then a ring of 1mm ply to reinforce the inner side of the dowel hole. - 3 laminations of 1mm ply. In both cases with epoxy rather than PVA
  16. Hahaha, I'll try to use this argument with swmbo
  17. Posted by simon burch on 27/01/2016 08:08:03: I used to be a design engineer using cad before I changed careers to be a teacher (I wouldn't recommend it !!) Simon With two kids homeschoolers, and the third on his/her way, I tend to agree with your recommendation
  18. Thanks Shane for clarifying. I agree that the initial investment, being a bit too much, it will be paid off quite soon, especially if you're a "compulsive" builder...
  19. That sounds intetesting, I may start saving for one of those. Is Cut2d the software you bought separately? The one included with the stepcraft is the UCCNC isn't it? Thanks for all this useful info
  20. It looks nice. A good building job followed by a good sanding is always very rewarding
×
×
  • Create New...