Geoff S

I use the rudder quite a lot for normal flying but not so much when rolling so perhaps that's the answer. John: What's this about thumbs only? I never use thumbs only - finger and thumb for me - and no coupled aileron/rudder, I promise Peter F: I can see I I have more scope for aileron movement, perhaps up to 1.5" and perhaps a bit less down? The DB Tiggie is 1/6 scale. Frank Skilbeck: Thanks for those videos. Certainly lots of rudder and, as you say, no what might be called aileron rolls. Gary Binnie:  That's all very useful information and goes to show it isn't just me which what I was really worried about.  Good point about the potential for a zero score in competition if you mess up the touch and go and it's at the beginning of the sequence. Anyway, I like the model so much, I'm seriously thinking of building a DB Cirrus/Gypsy Moth next - after my Dennis Bryant SE5a, that is. Thanks for all the contributions Geoff Edited By Geoff Sleath on 22/05/2016 23:08:32

There is no gap in the aileron/wing junction - it's covered with Solartex. I already have aileron differential to minimise adverse yaw effects but I wondered about changing it one way or the other. Just wondered what other people experienced. Geoff

I've now had about 20 flights with my electrically powered DB Tiger Moth and it flies very well generally and seems to be easy to land (at least so far!) One thing I have found is that it has a great reluctance to roll. In fact it rolls so slowly that I begin to think it's never going to make it and the inverted phase needs a fair push of elevator. Is this normal for DB Moths? I have a lot of aileron movement (1" up and about 5/8" down) and the CoG is a bit further back than the recommended 4" back from the top wing l/e and I'm planning to move it back more. I was hoping for it to be a bit more aerobatic as I believe the full size is. Geoff

My Super Stearman (6kg/30cc Mackay petrol) started being very squirrely on the take off run and just about impossible to keep straight so as an experiment I fitted a gyro on the rudder. As I was fitting it I noticed the tyres were very worn (we fly off tarmac) and it reminded me that I'd had similar problems with a Precedent Funfly a few years back with some foam wheels. So I did a bad thing and changed 2 things at once - fitted the gyro and new wheels. Take-off is easy now but I'm not sure which modification improved things. Anyway the gyro doesn't seem to be a problem so I've left it. Geoff

Posted by Tom Sharp 2 on 16/05/2016 19:42:40: Hi Geoff Lovely picture of the Stearman, but where are the wheel covers. I'm afraid they tend to get a bit bashed about. On the first maiden the engine cut at altitude and the landing in the rough wiped put the undercarriage; on the second maiden the engine cut just after take off and the resultant heavy arrival did a lot more damage that took me several years to sort out. Then I discovered the engine problem was due to an intermittent electronic ignition system. I have some new spats but it's easier to fly (or land!) without them. I also had some take off problems which I think was due to worn out tyres on our tarmac runway. I've replaced the wheels as well as fitting a gyro on the rudder. It's OK now so I'm not sure what causing the violent squirrelling on the take off run. It flies very well but it's a bit of a hangar queen because of the assembly time and it takes up a lot of room in our small car which limits what else I can take. The Tiggie is a LOT easier both to transport and assemble. Geoff

I decided Sunday was a biplane day. It was the best weather we've had for a week or so but it wasn't quite as good as either I'd hoped or even forecast as it was still quite windy and, though sunny, not all that warm either. I took my GP Super Stearman (Makay 30cc petrol engine), DB 58" Tiger Moth (4S electric) and, of course my banker model, the Riot (3S electric). I flew them all, the Moth had 5 more outings. Amazingly there were only 5 of us at the field. The other 4 were the club multi-rotor enthusiasts but they're all fixed wing fliers as well. I hate camera without proper view finders and the poor framing of this shot is why Geoff

This happened over 60 years ago when I was helping out in the workshop of the family TV business. I fitted a mains plug to a length of mains lead, then plugged it in before starting to strip the other end to solder it into a radio on/off switch. Dad wasn't too pleased at the total mess I'd made to the cutting edges of his expensive sidecutters. Amazingly I never felt a thing but I blew the workshop fuses comprehensively. I also once topped up my motor cycle battery with distilled water from a Winchester bottle - except it was the bottle of carbon tetrochloride not the distilled water. Totally knackered the battery! Geoff

I assume the lines do get twisted but it doesn't matter if they do. Years ago I had one of the early stunt kites and it became popular for people to fly them on the company sports field at lunch times. The lines got twisted all the time but it didn't seem to affect the control. Well done to the fast Britons. I can't help thinking one of the main achievements is not to get dizzy But then, I've never flown C/L. Geoff

Posted by John Privett on 14/05/2016 22:08:34: Posted by Geoff Sleath on 12/05/2016 19:33:15: I also do the mental 'all clear above and below' I learned when full size gliding before signalling the winch to start taking up slack as well as the verbal 'Taking off' warning if there are others flying or in the vicinity. When I did a little full-size gliding (a long time ago!) the call before launch was "all clear above and behind" before "take up slack" and then "all out." I suspect that's what you meant to say, Geoff - unless you had special concerns for the earthworms at your gliding field! You're right of course The last time I flew a full size glider was 1999 on SI New Zealand and that was after a gap of several years since I flew at Camp Hill in the Peak District so I've got a good excuse. The main ground level hazard was a peewit's nest right in the middle of the field which was surrounded by a circle of white-painted rocks to help identify it. The sitting bird never even flinched when the shadow of a wing swept over her as we landed. I'm getting old Geoff

Pocketmags??? I expect to be able to view the magazine at the RCME web site. I don't think I've ever used Pocketmags and it's never heard of me apparently. Geoff

The latest edition in the on-line subscription archive is May 2016. June's issue isn't posted. Geoff

Posted by Peter Miller on 13/05/2016 08:43:39: THis listing says "found" . As itis a marine engine I imagine that it was found at the bottom of a pond. **LINK** To be fair, the seller is giving a lot of information so there's no doubt about what he's selling, plus it couldn't be a lower starting price. For someone interested in unusual engines it would be worth a punt IMO. Geoff

With thermal soarers it's definitely not a good idea to look away. I did that when my Sonata 'E' was tooling along at altitude perfectly safely without any input from me and I looked away to speak to someone and it was a frightening 10 or 20 seconds (seemed like minutes!) before I found it again in the clear blue sky. I'm fortunate that I'm able to fly when there are few others at the field and we often take turns so we have the sky to ourselves or, at least, with only one or at the most two others in the air at the same time. However, I don't have too much trouble looking away briefly to check the strip is clear before landing when my model is fairly close but I don't like looking down at my transmitter. I appreciate the verbal timings I get from my Taranis. I also do the mental 'all clear above and below' I learned when full size gliding before signalling the winch to start taking up slack as well as the verbal 'Taking off' warning if there are others flying or in the vicinity. Geoff

I wouldn't think a 5 year layoff would make flying a Wot 4 a serious problem for you. I'm sure a few flights will restore a lot of your former skills. Unless you're determined to go with a glow powered model, a Riot set up as the instructions makes a good electric trainer. Then, by increasing control throws and moving the CoG back by removing the lump of steel in the front, it makes for an aerobatic model. Geoff

I did and they fell by the wayside one by one. The last to go was Hobbystores in Beeston, Nottingham which wasn't exactly loca for mel but was in walking distance from both my brother's and my sister's houses so wasn't too inconvenient. There's still GeeDee in the middle of Nottingham but it's not exactly a convenient location to access unless you have a need to go into the city, which I don't. So I'm afraid it's shows and mail order via the internet in the future. I think Ken's right that the new breed of modeller is going to be quite different from the old. I started as a mature adult (mid 50s) because an injury stopped me sailing and cycling seriously and I needed another outlet. It was a small local model shop in Heanor (Wayland's Models) that did a lot to help me out. I was already quite practical and didn't have too much trouble building my trainer but learning to fly was a bit more difficult. How someone in my position would get started is the question and perhaps explains the rise and rise of multi-rotor so-called drones - they get the publicity. Scale and sport fixed wing aircraft are just about unknown outside the hobby. Geoff

You say you have a wattmeter, so the only way to find out is to try it. Just make sure you keep the current well inside the rating for the esc (30 amps IIRC). I don't think the motor specification is published so you're going to have to assume it matches the esc. Whatever the current, a quick test (< 30secs) is unlikely to cause any damage. I would say you're OK if the current stays under 25 amps. What current draw do you get with the existing set up? Even with the higher maximum current that fitting a bigger prop will entail, if you exercise reasonable throttle management then overall endurance may not change too much. If you fly flat out the whole time then obviously you'll exhaust the battery sooner than with a 12x6 prop. Just make haste slowly and check the battery after each flight and extend/reduce flight times accordingly. Geoff

I had a look in Poundland this morning and I just wondered who Tommy Walsh is. Is he a TV personality? Geoff

I've just fitted the motor I mentioned above (Turnigy SK3 Gliderdrive 3.5 960kv) and everything seems to be OK. The original 30 amp esc seems to be OK. The bell-like original motor seems to have slightly irregular magnet spacing and was making an odd noise when I checked it in the workshop. The new motor seem to be very smooth and quiet. It was the usual pig to fit in the nose but at least the part you can get your fingers to is rigidly connected to the part with the mounting holes which with normal outrunners isn't the case. This is an outrunner but is totally enclosed. The only moving part outside the case is the 5mm shaft. Very neat indeed. I had to drill extra holes and open out the centre hole to accommodate it but there is more than sufficient room in the nose. Be aware that the original equipment folding prop hub is for a 4mm shaft so a different hub is needed. Fortunately I had one in stock. I tried it with Graupner 12x6 prop blades with a 3S LiPo and it draws 22 amps (250 watts) which should be more than adequate but with more available with a bigger prop if needed (max current is 35 amps). 22 amps is well with the spec of both the motor and the esc. The motor seems to be a good choice but I'll know more when the wind and rain moderate and I can fly it again. Geoff

I've been using Poundshop cyano for a while now. I keep the spare in the fridge to keep it fresh. If you want thicker cyano just keep it for a while and it thickens - to the point of its being unusable as I found from the bottle I keep in my flight box for those 'just in case' repairs I've also been using Poundshop 5 minute epoxy which also seems to work OK. I use 30 minute epoxy for very critical areas but the Poundshop stuff is fine for quicker setting needs. Our local Poundshop in Belper is right by the bus stop where I get the bus home and If I'm a few minutes early I have a wander to see what's in stock. I usually walk the 2.5 miles in and catch the bus home up the hill - the joys of the free bus pass, one of the very few advantages of old age! Geoff

All the LiPos I get from HK arrive with a storage charge. However, I never storage charge my LiPos. Perhaps I should but I leave them fully charged ready to fly when the weather's suitable. Geoff

I hope things go smoothly. I've been buying their metal gear, ball bearing servos recently and they seem to be of good quality and relatively inexpensive. Geoff

Posted by Percy Verance on 08/05/2016 08:15:54: You just have to get those landings right Geoff. After all, there's one every flight...... Edited By Percy Verance on 08/05/2016 08:16:39 In my case there's often several but we all land eventually. It's just a case of if the model is ready to take off again without a lot of workshop time ... or even at all Geoff

After a little contretemps with reversed ailerons (don't ask because I don't know!) on my original Riot with over 200 flights to its credit I bought a new airframe and so it's like my grandad's hammer (3 new handles and 4 new heads) and keeps soldiering on. There are very few flying sessions when it's not in the car. It still has the original motor and esc both rudder and elevator servos have been replaced with metal geared ones from Airtek because of stripped gears. The original prop lasted a very long time but has been replaced with a cheap 12x6 from HobbyKIng which seems to perform more than adequately for my very modest flying skills. I can't remember exactly what the current draw is but it was checked and found to be within the limits of the supplied esc (30 amps IIRC). I had few flights yesterday. Each lasted about 8 minutes actually in the air (9 minutes after the taxi out and back) and the batteries (2200 3S) still had about 25% capacity (I was impressed by my new, and expensive, Graphene pack which still had a 40% reserve!). I do practice a lot of throttle control but my flights are quite aerobatic and usually include at least 2 touch and goes because I'm trying to improve my landing skills. So I've never really bothered about further experiments beyond removing the steel weight and increasing control movements. It is, without doubt, the best value for money model I've had in terms of flying time v workshop time as well as cost/flight. I love it. Geoff

I suppose it might be worth a tenth of the asking price ... might? Geoff

I think Dave had a brain slip and got his right and lefts confused. Mode 2 (which is what I fly) has roll/pitch controls on the right stick. If your main roll control is the rudder then that goes on the right stick in lieu of the aileron. In my case on a rudder/elevator model with an undercarriage I always mix left and right rudder/aileron controls 100% so I can use either. If I don't, I find I try to use the left stick on take off with no effect on the models track Geoff