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Capt Kremen

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Everything posted by Capt Kremen

  1. Capt Kremen

    Capt Kremen posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  2. Capt Kremen

    Capt Kremen posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  3. Capt Kremen

    Capt Kremen posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  4. Capt Kremen
    There's a 'cottage industry' German modeller/engineer that sells the whole range of Cox motors from 'PeeWee' upward or else will convert your own Cox engine to electric motive power. From memory, I don't think they were cheap though!
  5. Capt Kremen
    Recently, whilst being 'chaperoned' by my CEO around a certain major 'Penny Bazaar' high street/mall shop. I noticed a pile of quad copters for sale (£25-00). Picking a box up, I flipped it over to read the smallish print on the back. Whilst the text did say not to fly near airports and a few other cautionary points, it hardly leapt out to me and, dare I say, would it to an eager youngster who just rips open the carton on the 25th!
  6. Capt Kremen
    I've used a 'hybrid' method - printed decal paper + clear vinyl scrap (from a kit decal sheet). Having a Multiplex 'Fun Cub', I fancied a fun scale 'Piper J3' scheme including the iconic cub bear insignia that adorns the tail of those yellow J3 aircraft. After downloading the image from the net, I printed it on decal paper. Then, using clear self-adhesive vinyl from the surround area of the MPX kit insignia, covered the 'cub', allowing sufficient surround to attach to the model. After several seasons, the 'FunCub' displays the usual foam model 'hangar rash' but the insignia remains firmly attached and in perfect nick with no peeling or curling. For Foam models, this would seem a very practical and certainly durable option as water slide decals alone, tend not to adhere long term to these surfaces.
  7. Capt Kremen

    Capt Kremen posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  8. Capt Kremen

    Capt Kremen posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  9. Capt Kremen
    Just found (a new) mini-motor specified for the 'Micro Vapor' on the 'bay' for £7-50, so will give that a try. Comparing my (original) 'Mini Vapor' instruction manual spare parts list with the currently available manual, quotes different part numbers. As to whether they are one and the same, don't honestly know. The version I have has the motor hard wired (soldered) to the Rx board, whilst the current model's motor shows a micro +/- plug fitted. Obviously much easier and practical for motor or Rx board replacement. Incidentally, a replacement brand new Rx/ESC board is almost 2/3rds the price of a complete new model, hope my new motor is all I need to 'refurbish' my oldie.
  10. Capt Kremen
    Thanks Don. Alas, I have been using the same cells with the types bigger brother, 'Night Vapor' with success, though I know what you mean about these little cells 'perishing' after a seasons use. Reading in other places, suggests these tiny brushed motors are only good for 50-60 flights(?) before replacement being required. Whilst I haven't kept count, I must have had the 'Mini Vapor' a good few years/indoor seasons flying, maybe the motor has 'burnt its brushes'?
  11. Capt Kremen
    My club's indoor flying sessions are now in full swingso I dug out my Park Zone 'Mini Vapor' from its summer hibernation to have a flight or three! With a freshly charged 1S liPo, the model binds OK, rudder and elevator operating normally, however the motor is very intermittent and when it runs, does so at quite slow revs. The Spektrum DX6i Tx operates other models OK i.e. the pot on the throttle channel is working and not a culprit. Several freshly charged LiPo have been tried just in case it was an odd duff cell when under load, no luck. The connecting wires at both motor and Rx board end, gently waggled to see if it is a 'make and break' connection that can be made, no joy. So, what would folk suggest trying, if possible, to avoid major surgery on minute components and the micro soldered wire connections? Most of the time the motor does not work at all, just the occasional whirr. So to me that suggests the ESC is possibly still intact and the motor too, but the pair not continuously!!!
  12. Capt Kremen
    Looks like a lot of 'hoops 'n hurdles' and restrictions apply on most venues/shops, In most, if not all, it's not a straight present the card and get 10% off. e.g. Obtain a voucher, only valid on certain items, must be presented before getting the bill etc. etc. Will be interested to hear user experience(s) once/if it gets wide spread adoption by the BMFA community.
  13. Capt Kremen
    My 'Electric' Flair SE5A needed a few lumps of those weights, (I presume they are no longer actually lead!). These were secured in the inside lip of the front radiator. It flies serenely on a dumpy 4S HobbyKing 'Graphene' 4000mAh LiPo driving a EFlite46 that turns a 14x6 APC E prop. This was a conversion from an APC 40 i/c 'goo' engine! Co-ordinated aileron and rudder for turns, just love sedate fly-bys on those balmy sunny days we always have in the summer (LOL!). Pity they are no longer made. The recent 'Ripmax' ARTF version seems to have been an' gone without trace or reports/review in the 'comic'.
  14. Capt Kremen
    Out flying in the glorious sunshine today, a fellow club mate was about to fly his 'Riot'. Doing his pre-flight checks, (as we all conscientiously do ... don't we!!!) .... one of the original aileron clevis literally disintegrated in his fingers as he checked their security! This person is a relative newcomer, not from a modelling background. As others have said or alluded to, how many newcomers purchasing this model would literally fly it as is full of all the shortcomings in quality of items, construction, supplied servo, motor, esc etc.? then suffer a unexplained failure or worse whilst flying. Put it down to their inexperience when it is the quality of the product all along that is at fault. Once ALL the issues with the components and construction are rectified, the 'Riot' is a great hack model, but as it comes out of the box ... ??????
  15. Capt Kremen
    Ailerons on a 'Radio Queen'???? If you really must, but it doesn't need them and unless you are flying it 'out-of-character' of the original 'guided R/C' style, it's a fantastic flying model on just rudder/elevator and throttle, i/c or electric powered.
  16. Capt Kremen
    I recently visited the huge German model expo in Friedrichshafen. Graupner, (among numerous others), had a small stand there. IMO, very little of any consequence on display and a shadow of former years pre their take-over, very, very sad. The original Graupner stood for high quality and their wood kits were beautifully crafted, together with superb construction plans and instructions. Only AeroNaut and Krick (the later in a limited way), seem to be uphold the finest tradition of German balsa/ply kit manufacture now. Whilst acknowledging Multiplex for their all 'Elapor' foam range, Simprop, Robbe and the other lesser players now merely import and re-badge far eastern ARTF in a mix of wood and foam constructions. Sadly signs of the times ....
  17. Capt Kremen
    FS2020 is coming soon!
  18. Capt Kremen
    My two pennerth ... (Longer) term storage of some of my models in a well insulated, but dry, 'loft hangar'. Metal clevis, exposed areas of pushrods, some types of exposed nuts n' bolts e.g. securing control horns - can develop a surface oxidisation/'white' coating to greater or lesser degree. Servo mounting grommets 'harden', servo themselves seem to operate fine after cycling checks. Plug and un-plug servos to 'clean' the contacts/ensure sound electrical contact. (I'm all electric motor systems so no gummy i/c pistons or carbs to free). Electric motor bearings oiled & checked for 'rough' spots. Closed loop wires oxidise, unless wiped over with Vaseline or similar prior to storage. Film coverings can loosen, depending on type and brand. Much lamented Solartex seems most durable. Gliders - Metal wing joiners can oxidise and get stuck if left in fuselages. Be mindful of leaving a fuselage or u/c resting on a wing or tailplane. This can cause dips and dents in the covering as well as slight warps in control surfaces Glue joints can 'dry out', become brittle or loose, flake off. A thorough inspection and check over is essential after long(er) term storage.
  19. Capt Kremen
    **** The FIRST LINK that Frank highlighted should be widely promulgated as it gives a 'one-stop-shop' for ALL the information a BMFA (and member wishing to comply with ALL the current Law and exemptions, do's, don'ts etc. etc.), should read. Thanks Frank.
  20. Capt Kremen
    With conscientious intent, I have just 'waded' through the multiple pages, (and many further links within these pages), of numerous CAA documents relating to DRES and associated legislation. Phew!!! I appreciate that for many (most?) fliers, their umbrella organisations such as BMFA, LMA etc. have worked hard to obtain exemptions and competency recognition e.g. Achievement Scheme. My thanks to all those involved, your stamina is to be applauded! For the average 'Joe Bloggs' club member, I have serious doubts they will have the inclination or interest to similarly wade through the pages and pages of these texts. The casual (non-modeller) purchaser of a 'drone'? Not a chance.
  21. Capt Kremen
    Hi Chris, Several 'Electric' versions in my club. Typical 4-Max set up: Motor PO-5055-595 / ESC 60A or above / 4 or 5S LiPo / Props To Suit Varying Cell Number e.g. APC 13x6.5 All fly superbly, very smooth, no vices. Flight times of 7+ minutes with 'go-around' power to spare and more. As always, '4-Max' George is your man for the latest info as available equipment does vary and change from time to time.
  22. Capt Kremen
    An additional safety technique to adopt ... When picking up the Tx case, always place the thumb ABOVE the (throttle) stick such that, in the event the operator trips or stumbles whilst carrying Tx (and model?) out of the pits to the taxi / active take off area, there is less likelihood of pushing the throttle stick wide open / on. Not guaranteed to prevent mishaps but together with throttle cut / activation switch, is contributory to a safer flight line operation. As others have said, once the flight battery is connected, always treat the motor as potentially 'live'. Switches, BECs, ESCs, even the pilots memory!, can and do fail, fortunately not too often. (The above is primarily for electric models however, i/c can have the Tx trim lever adjusted fully forward from an engine 'stop' closed position to a good 'idle' tick-over).
  23. Capt Kremen
    My (early) Spektrum DX6i had a throttle cut 'button' on the top right of the Tx case. Not very good as it required depressing to activate but became active once released! This was very easily remedied by installing a 'Maplin', (remember that handy if expensive store!), two-way switch. Voila! Positive On/Off arming of the throttle. My current Multiplex 'Cockpit' Tx has an ever so nice, if somewhat stern, lady announce 'Check the position of all controls' should I switch on with the throttle stick advanced above zero. There is also the facility to allocate the 'throttle cut' switch itself, to any switch on the Tx. Safety Is No Accident!
  24. Capt Kremen
    Strange some folk don't as a matter of course employ a 'Throttle Cut' ????? It is a feature of most, (if not all), modern radio program set-up menus. Two seconds to set-up, could save two digits or more from the accidental chop!
  25. Capt Kremen
    The forthcoming new legislation allows an exemption for holders of a recognised achievement scheme e.g. the BMFA 'A' Test. However, does this mean in effect that ALL future newcomer/trainee model aircraft pilots will have to pass the official online test, PRIOR to undergoing their BMFA 'A' test training or indeed the 'A' test itself if already in training? Great for all of us already holding a BMFA Achievement Scheme pass. Will there now be a mad dash to get 'A', 'B' tests done before the critical implementation date? Or does it not matter a hoot as the legislation online test can be taken as many times as required and cannot be failed!
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