Capt Kremen

Once again the advantage of this web site over the info available in the printed magazine shows its real value. (The recent item on video cams in RCM&E whilst OK, was typical of most magazine articles, lacking in lots of specific detail and I felt very generalized). I seek a camcorder not just for the occasional model flight recording but to (legally) capture musical performances indoors. Any recommendations for something discreet that can be placed up on a shelf or tucked away to point at the stage? i.e. Relies on Stage lighting to capture the image, needs a means to observe the field of view to set up AND how long will the storage cards record for at different quality settings? (This last item seems always missing in reviews).

Echoing what other learned contributors have said. I think the charger is No.1 suspect if your fellow fliers batteries perform perfectly in your plane with your radio/esc set-up. I left fully charged LiPos for a whole year, (stored in an outside, unheated garage). When personal circumstances then allowed a return to flying, no discernable issues found. The cells worked immediately and were able to be fully balance recharged. (Some packs were 6 years old too!) Yes, in ideal circumstances 'storage' voltage would be best but how many of us (a) use up all our fully charged flight packs in a session (b) have time to then fully recharge all their packs when the weather window of opportunity presents itself. Only one thought not mentioned but doesn't apply anyway! Sometimes ESC/Speed Controllers are not operating through their full range i.e. full throttle on the transmitter is not at the full extent of the esc range = low power output.

With the mess that HK have made of their web site, which of the multitude of glues available do folk use on Multiplex Elapor? I have used CA in the past including the MPX own brand glue it really irritates nose and throat despite being used outdoors. UHU POR or similar is not strong enough for securing the carbon rod wing reinforcements and things like horns.

Agree with GLs earlier post, thorough independant testing should be done of servos, radio gear, models etc. by our model magazines. Doubt they will though, too much advertising revenue at stake, most, (not all!), reviews are little more than the manufacturers PR copy recycled. And the publishers wonder why there are so many unsold copies left on the shelf at the end of the month.

Have taken models by air to the States & Germany several times. These were packed in copious layers of bubble wrap and placed inside a 'home-made' ply box. Touch (balsa) wood, no damage despite the best efforts of airline/baggage handler staff belonging to various domestic and overseas airlines. Word of caution - The, to us modellers, innocuous items like single edge razor blades, modelling knives, glues and of course any batteries, ring alarm bells and you can expect extra time being scanned and all packaging possibly taken apart and thoroughly searched. All your careful efforts to pack protectively may be to no avail if they decide they want to see what's inside the 'box', packet etc.!!! Also, In the States, my BMFA membership cut no ice with the guys running the Tx compound either. I had to take out temporary AMA membership AND use a local residents Tx too, they would not accept a US module in my Tx.

Any suggestions as to where I can purchase some of that very thin & light weight 'Velcro' type stuff that is used to secure the mini single cell batteries to the likes of ParkZone Mini & Night Vapor models? Just bought some new cells for the winter indoor season and need some to attach the cells securely. (Went in HobbyCraft and they only sell the thicker, regular varieties of Hook & Felt). Any other practical suggestions welcomed too. Thanks.

Sorting through my 'collection' of plans I came across one for the 'True Line Corsair, Advanced Trainer'. I remember the model flying well, very well. In fact it flew off 'free-flight' fashion under the influence of CB radio interference in the days of 27Mhz! (Circa 1971-2) So, I have the plan and fancy recreating it ... however ... The plan only gives a side fuselage view and surprisingly no dimensions as to wingspan. Does anyone have an old RCM&E or Radio Modeler mag with an advert for it perhaps that gives the elusive size? It's a shoulder wing constant chord of, (from memory), 45 - 50" span I think. Thanks.

I'm building the new 'Retro RC-340' from RBC Kits. (See Picture in the latest RCM&E 'Counter-Point' I was attracted to it because it reminds me very much of the MK 'Curare' I had so much pleasure and enjoyment with back in the late 70s. So to my question ... I require some electric retracts for this 1.45m span model (built up balsa skinned wing). I've not had occasion to buy a set for many a year. What currently available trike sets would folk recommend? For example, looking at the HK site, I'm a little bewildered as to which might be best/most durable and above all practical for flying off a smooth but nevertheless grass field flying site. Should Oleo types be considered to soak up some of the inevitable bumps? Should a separate power pack be used for the U/C and if so what type/size? The model is designed for a 4 - 5 cell LiPo motor power pack. Any other tips most welcome. Thanks

I have both 'Discovery' & the 'Riot'. As a consistent durable performer, the 'Disco' wins hands down for me everytime. They both have their 'issues' but none are too serious or cannot be easily rectified e.g. Very small wheels and 'soft metal' bolts used as axles on both, may prove troublesome on long grass fields(?). The battery compartment on the Riot can pop open after regular use due plastic latch fatigue. Original Servos (both models), are functional rather than quality and durable. I re-motored my Disco and made the cowl a screw attached one. This for easy access as the steerable nose leg assembly takes a pounding and the original was replaced. OK, so I replaced or fitted quite a few items (over time), but both models are still flying and giving good service. I have logged hundreds of flights with my Disco including training others, and am now approaching 150 on the Riot too.

Getting back into 'traditional' building after an enforced break, I'm seeking the following: From memory, an American product that consists of a 'soft elastic type plastic' sprue retaining tiny little black circles. These circular pieces are removed from the sprue. They feature a tiny hole in them such that when a thin model pin is inserted, this can be pushed to any depth released and it stays in place. It very effectively 'clamps' balsa strip/ribs etc in place while the glue sets. I vaguely recall one of our leading free-flight suppliers i.e. SAMS, Flitehook etc. having them but can find no trace on their sites and now years later, I'm not sure what they are actually called to get some more! Thanks for any help.

Thanks WolstonFlyer, I'll give it a try. I'm assuming the MP3s are fed through this program prior to uploading to my iPod. (I have a huge music library so that will be a day and some task to 'equalise' then re-load onto the iPlod) I wish there was a reasonable MP3 player available that would allow me to ditch the iPod. All the MP3 players are either extremely expensive e.g. up market Cowan or else have issues with switching themselves off and then my speakers howl with protest at loss of input signal e.g. the Sony Walkman player which I've tried. Is it too much to ask for a MP3 player that will play tunes at approx same volume and allow you to 'pause' playback (e.g. to answer the phone), without 'going-to-sleep' and then my speakers let me know with a loud hum.

I am a subscriber to Napster, (other streaming music sites are available!), and download a selection of my favorite artists to play on my iPod whilst I'm balsa bashing 'n building models. On playback the tunes generally are about the same sound level however some tracks are not. I have been into the settings on the iPod and selected the 'equaliser' setting but this seems to make little, if any difference. Is this a ploy by Apple to get me to buy all my tracks only from the Apple Store(?) Any users out there that can suggest a practical solution? ALL the tracks play perfectly well and at approx. the same sound level on the PC prior to transfer via (IMHO awful) iTunes. I visited my local Apple store and they were as useful as a chocolate teapot, probably because I wasn't buying their latest shiny product! It is very annoying as usually I'm just in the middle of glueing a delicate part and 'boom' the volume either goes too loud or else 'disapears' Grrr ... rrrrr

Last year due personal circumstances and not least rubbish weather co-inciding with the rare times I was able to fly, my LiPo remained untouched but in a fully charged state. This year, I expected a lot of 'duff' packs and expense buying replacements before I flew. 'Touch-wood' etc ... I've made best use of the good weather days and opportunities to fly. So far, no apparent issues. OK, I'm not flying many high current EDF or other pack straining types of model which might put the packs to ultimate test but they are giving me the same flight times and performance as in previous years, I date my packs and some are now 5 years old and still giving good service. In previous years, I always 'storage charged' packs, balanced and generally gave them the utmost attention. Without doing anything 'silly' and keeping to the prudent safety practices of use, for a 'general sport flier' such as i consider myself, it seems LiPo are quite forgiving of being 'forgotton' for a while!

In order to acquire the essential 'Brownie Points' to go flying I, like many of us I perhaps, are required to get out the decorating gear and 'do' the living room, kitchen, hall, spare room etc. etc. from time to time. Such a request from SHMBO, required the rejuvenation of our 'long-term lodgers' (son's) room now he's recently departed the home hotel. So to painting. I usually use Dulux gloss white but the last couple of occasions I have been disappointed. I am aware the certain (paint) industry standards have changed but have they resulted in better product for the average Joe home decorator? The oil(?) gloss white paints soon seem to 'yellow' but does dry to a smooth finish after a smelly few days. The current water cleanable variety, whilst being odour free and quick drying, seems to result in a brush mottled surface however skill-full and deft your brush work is. (I do use quality brushes, well they're not cheap!). Not withstanding the obvious paint tin label descriptions i.e. 'Bathroom' paint, 'Kitchen' paint, exterior/interior there seem to be several 'wood interior' paints on offer. Which to chose for the best? What do others of you find works? All I want is a long lasting colour stable, gloss white finish on wood which I, as an occasional decorator, can apply without to much hassle, fumes, cleaning issues etc.

Add another recruit to this growing club ... My additional modelling 'loft-insulation' is out-of-sight of SWMBO but as a consequence has a habit of gnawing away at the conscience. Add an interest in music both performing and listening to CDs, DVDs etc and the associated items, books, magazines add further 'to the must-get-round-tuit' clearout potential. Modern society does not encourage us either, as there's always a better, new improved, must have mouse-trap waiting to be purchased. I love radios, (the listening to kind as well as R/C!), and I can probably open my own electrical shop with perfectly serviceable but now out-of-date/fashion/style units. Charity shops will not accept because they are unregulated electrical items, whilst the online auction web sites are full of such unsold items. I have been told the answer is to have three large containers/bin boxes. In one you put the obvious rubbish. In another the essential items and in the third the undecided 'might-come-in handy' items. If after 'x' weeks/months you haven't touched the items in the third box then bin them. However, like previous contributors, you will find immediately you do the chuck-out, those items will be required and need to be purchased again. And so the cycle comes full circle!!!

Surprising comments ... Top German fliers use them extensively. (I have examined their models first hand at many German model airshows down the years. Multiplex kits are a current exponent of their use too). The observation I would make though is that they use the type of fastener (Graupner usually), which requires an Allen key to securely tightened a grub screw onto the steel push rod/snake. The fixing itself being secured by a 'lock' nut to the control horn or servo arm. Since visiting Germany from the 1980s onwards for model shows, I have used these extensively and with due regard to regular safety checks as required for any control rod assembly, have not experienced any issues. As a previous post suggests, a dab of locktite plus you can add a blob of epoxy fore 'n aft of the fixing as extra security has never failed. I do fly all electric though so maybe engine vibration is less of a potential issue.

An interesting selection of comments and perspectives. One thing I notice. Earlier years copies of any model magazine, (pre-internet of course!), featured lots of detailed informative adverts. e.g. lists of kits, engines, balsa sizes, misc. accessories and so on Advertising finances and enables most publications, nowadays it seems fewer appear. Is this due their cost? their effectivenes? Whatever the reason, less adverts = less revenue to the publisher and, as per newspapers, the publication ultimately ceases due being uneconomic. I noticed that the latest issue of 'Flying Scale Models' is now on 'newsprint' quality paper too so that must be an indication that economies have had to be made.

With the recent announcement of the demise of two printed newspapers (The Independant and I ) what future for printed model magazines? I visit many of the larger branches of WH Smith around the south of England e.g. Brighton, Chichester, Southampton, Salisbury to name but a few. Without exception, I usually have to hunt to find the RCM&E and the other model aircraft magazines. They are invariably nowadays tucked away on a lower shelf toward the back. (And yes my back aches trying to bend down low enough to reach them too!) Yesterday I noticed a huge pile of the previous months RCM&E issue still on the shelf unsold with the latest edition alongside! My flying clubs members, judging by demographics that appear on here from time to time, are of a mature if not old vintage age group! I often ask did you see that article in RCM&E or A.Another model magazine on 'xyz'? 'No mate never bother to buy them' comes the usual reply. So what (long term) future for the printed model mag?

I have a Cambria 'Instructor' under construction / refurbishment at the moment for electric power. (Managed to find it as an almost complete assembled uncovered kit on the 'bay'. This was for the 'built-up' wing version, though I have had a 'foam' wing cut which I intend using first. Full size two-sheet plans, original instructions & copy of 'RM' review were available on the 'bay' too. Also, I noticed a Canadian forum member had recently advertised a un-built kit . In the 70s had several Cambria models including: FW190, Me109, Capstan (a bit of a brick IMO) and a low wing intermediate aileron trainer, the name of which escapes me.

Couldn't find my good old 'Radio Modeller' books illustrating installations to look this up or find a suitable thread on here ... Scenario: A swept back rudder control installation e.g. a Red Arrows Hawk jet has an angled rudder hinge line like ' / ' If using a push-rod connection from the rudder servo: (A) What sort of control horn would be best to fit to the rudder, a '90 degree' or 'swept forward' one and in which orientation? (B) Servo Arm or Disc with a conventional clevis or is a ball-link clevis better - see 'C' (C) How to allow for the 'rise' in push rod travel as the rudder deflects? Would a ball-link be best? (A closed-loop set up or installing the servo at an angle in the tail is not an option in this case).

Excellent company. Visited their shop and stands at German model shows, makes even the best of ours look like amateur outfits. All items neatly arranged in order on pull-out racks, full range of even the smallest specialist product in stock. Comprehensive kit range and Radio gear too. (No, I don't have any commercial connection). Hollein are another I'd recommend, cheaper than UK with courier delivery often in as little 3 days door-to-door.

The original used 'Door Hinges' and metal straps with wood screws to hold the two halves together! So a two-piece folding wing is authentic and in keeping with the designers** intent. (** The designer was Peter Cock and not Col.Taplin as erroneously always quoted though the later made the model well known with his English Channel crossing and electric power installation).

Mmm ... Yes & No ... it depends on so many factors. I should firstly say I am owner of a 'Riot', and this is only my 'two pennerth' observations! IF you are an absolute beginner, with NO aeromodelling/flying experience I would say NO IF you can fly or at least have a reasonable idea about which way to push the sticks when one wing goes down etc. them MAYBE but it's not ideal. IF you have a competent and experienced pilot at your side to initially fly the plane, trim it out then, at a safe height hand the control over and ALWAYS be ready to take back control if required then, YES. IF you can fly i.e. take-off, fly circuits (L & R!), land without getting your self flustered, then YES but take it steady until you know the plane and it's handling at your flying site. The other factors are: Any experience with electric power? Handling LiPo packs? The type of flying site you operate from i.e. rough grass is a challenge for the cheap wheels/axles & undercarriage the plane comes with! Personally, for an absolute beginner, I'd get something with more dihedral that really needs 'guiding' rather than controlling, at least to start with. And fly in suitable weather conditions, calm(er) as opposed to very windy AND have an competent, experienced flier with you.

This week good old Auntie Beeb and CH4 featured supposed comparative testing of typical AA size batteries. These included a range of zinc and (expensive) lithium from a whole range of brands e.g. Duracell, Eveready, Halfords, Panasonic, Poundshop, Asda etc. etc. These were set to work, powering toys and left running until they stopped, with operating times being recorded. Perhaps not surprisingly, the Lithium varieties had the longest duration but obviously at a premium cost. As for the rest it was a hotch-potch of brands that came out 'best', depending on which programme you watched. Experts in the know, are there really only a few actual manufacturers and when for example a Sainsbury branded cell beats a Tesco one or a Halfords, are they really just the same cells with different label packaging and it's just age/shelf life stage that are being 'tested' and observed? A leading brand can be bought at 'pound-a-pack' prices on market stalls and a higher price in supermarkets. Is that pure mark up or are they genuinely superior for the extra cost? (Rechargeable cells were given a cursory mention in the programmes but didn't feature in testing). So with Santa due shortly delivering power hungry toys (including flying ones) we hope, what latest thoughts on AA / AAA non-rechargeables? Which ones are really consistently the best?

Nothing as elaborate as a rack I'm afraid, I just put some '2 x 1' timbers across between the roof loft timbers. (The '---' middle line/stroke in the capital letter 'A' is a crude illustration, The ^ being the loft timbers). Then simply lay wings & fuzs between the roof timbers. Adding more cross pieces as the 'loft hangar' expands.