Capt Kremen

I use an Ammo Box with the 'clamps' loosened off i.e. so that 'in the event' the lid could rise a little releasing internal pressure build up but containing the fire within. That's the theory! This is kept out of direct sunlight & other combustible materials in the outer conservatory. Observed temperatures have been well within safe limits as described in all the warning literature. The box is lined with polystyrene foam and I pop a Max/Min greenhouse thermometer inside just as a guide to see what approx. temps the LiPos have been exposed to. When I expect not to fly for a while, all packs are stored at 'storage' voltage 3.85V 60% of max.. Ammo boxes are usually available at Army Surplus stores from about £10-20 depending on size and style.

Thanks for the useful ideas and tips from everyone. Nice paint job Jim but I doubt foam will give anywhere near a perfect finish. Reason I wish to give it an overall coat of preferably gloss white was (a) to blend the various modifications resulting in 'filler' areas etc. into a uniform colour and (b) provide a gloss surface for the 'homemade' (via the PC), waterslide decals to adhere to i.e. passenger windows and airline company logo which runs across the tail.

Just assembling a Multiplex Twinstar. I'm fitting it out in a sort of airliner style colour scheme which involves the usual all over white with a solid colour lower fuselage. Example: Look at the BA scheme, the dark blue underside for instance. My question: Assuming I spray the airframe all over (gloss) white, how would fellows paint the lower colour? Previous spray painted efforts have resulted in the first coat 'lifting off' along the masked cheat line, this despite using very low tack masking tape. Also, folding the tape back so as to 'cut' the overspray as cleanly as possible without literally ripping the tape off! Is it best to brush on the other colour, working up, with a steady hand, to a pencil guide line? Would a 'clear' sealing coat stop the white lifting off perhaps, any recommendations? I have used the Multiplex paint primer in the past and didn't notice any appreciable difference except a hole in my pocket, it's an expensive little tin! Thanks in advance.

A case of building 'Porshe/BMW/Mercedes' priced products when folk were and are very happy driving cheaper 'Minis/Robin Reliants' etc!

Hi Flyboy My 28 year old 'Radio Queen' has seen several (electric) power plants down the years. I haven't needed to add/subtract any down or side thrust from the basic plan i/c 'engine bearer' setting as per the plan. i.e. if you use a paxolin or ply plate fitted to the hard wood bearers that has proven fine. Do not over control with large rudder inputs if you have kept the original dihedral. The old girl will start 'Dutch Rolling' if you do! Mine flies a treat on 3 x 3300mAh LiPo, 13 x 6 prop and currently a 4 Max motor. Once aloft she putters around on 1/4 to 1/2 throttle at most for at least 15 minutes. Best of luck with yours. CK

I've obtained foam from this firm: **LINK** Good service and not too expensive, you can specify the type and sizes too.

Yes Please

Attempted a test flight with mine yesterday ... Horrendous rotor / airframe vibrations, ... Put the airframe down quickly. Fortunately, only suffered a broken blade at hub fixing point. How do you practically (and easily), balance your rotor & blades? Seemed a bit too much play in the rotor vertical axis for my liking. (I did as much a checking for balance/tracking as I felt possible beforehand too!)

Re Martyn motorcyclist post ... I am not against daylight running lights either but why only illuminate the front and not rear too? This so as to highlight the vehicles prescence ahead of you in the murky grey we are enjoying at the moment. See and BE SEEN I think the expression is. In keeping with aviation purpose of the site, aircraft display lights at all times, daylight, summertime and in clear blue skies. As a sometime cockpit rider, it sure makes spotting converging traffic easier!

Can contributors 'shed some light' on why the latest versions of cars display only front running lights, often of the LED variety? Recent weather conditions i.e. visibility < 100metres in mist/rain/snow etc. and overcast dull sky would suggest it prudent to put headlights on which simultaneously switch on the rear (red) lights too. I drove up the M6 recently and was amazed at the number of vehicles that suddenly loomed out of the gloom. (Popular Silver colours especially!). Perhaps the owners felt secure that their precious tin-boxes on wheels were immune from being struck as they displayed either the 'new' LEDS or no lights at all! Highway Code Rule 226 quote: You MUST use headlights when visibility is seriously reduced, generally when you cannot see for more than 100 metres (328 feet). You may also use front or rear fog lights but you MUST switch them off when visibility improves (see Rule 236).Law RVLR regs 25 & 27   Edited By Capt Kremen on 12/02/2013 12:33:56

Yesterday I visited a very well stocked model shop which I have used many times before for both 'large' & 'small' purchases. I was after some glue to assemble my new MPX 'Solius' elepor model. I've had varied success with different brands, including cheap(er) no-name bottles of this liquid. However, success is pretty much always guaranteed if you use MPX 'Zacki' brand as, (obviously), recommended by MPX! So I asked for a bottle of 'Zacki'. The shop manager found it very difficult to raise his head up from his laptop to even speak to me. (The shop was empty apart from one other chap 'browsing'. The shop mgr's 'Saturday Boy' assistant helped out though and handed me the Zacki off the shelf. Whilst not fluent, I do speak some German and immediately noticed on the label in very tiny print the 'Haltbar bis 01.13' = Best before 01.13 and a rather thick syrup solution in the plastic bottle. (Having used this product many times before it should be quite runny). I politely pointed this out to said mgr and he said don't buy it then returning it for some perhaps less fortunate customer to buy at £4-50 a go later this month, next month, who knows when? I left the shop very dissapointed with this couldn't care less attitude. So much for supporting a LMS. I think they'll be other places I'll go to next time. Now where's my 'Beef Lasagne' ........ Edited By Capt Kremen on 10/02/2013 13:51:33

Just received the 'Solius' kit from Germany. (3 days door to door too, super efficient!). First impressions: Up to the usual quality standards one has come to expect from MPX. Very well presented and packaged. Some new ideas for wing joiners & fixings such as servo lead sockets. Will be interesting to see how practical these prove in actual day-to-day use. Anyone interested can download the instruction manual from the MPX web site in advance. I'll post my review once flown, (Wx permitting!), soon. Now where's my 'Zacki' super glue? ....

Also ... related to the thread I feel .... Those 'flying hours', how many actually log their flights accurately and keep a true record? I have, on several occasions at our mixed model type club, casually asked fellows, 'How many flights today?' Answers seem a bit like fishermans tales of the 'one-that-got-away' and its size, 'Oh I've had a dozen at least'... Mmmm ....where's that pinch of salt????? With friendly natter, typical i/c glow plug start issues, safety restrictions on numbers in the air and dead stick/aborted take-offs, my observations suggest 3 maybe 4 flights an hour at best on a good day.

Hi Scott Fortunately, no strut mount failures to report on my Albatross (yet?). My plane seems to suffer from foam stress fractures though. The very open cell type foam cracks very easily under aerodynamic loads e.g. flexing of wings whilst flying in a scale manner as you fly too. I applied some aliphatic white glue which penertrates the cracks and, (fingers crossed), seems to have stopped them opening up. The control snakes jammed on mine though and I had a narrow escape when control was lost whilst in the air. Luckily I was over some long-grass and dumped the model without much harm. Needless to say I replaced the control runs to both rudder and elevator pronto.

Mike H, My two penny worth input ... I've just renovated my late fathers 1946 plan Junior 60, converting it to electric from previous lives flying with Oliver Tiger diesel, OS 4-stroke glow among various ic motors used. I fitted a brushless outrunner motor directly inplace of the i.c. paxolin motor plate and use a 3300mAh 3S LiPo flight pack held vertically just inside the 'cabin' behind the windscreen at the front. A few pieces of foam packing stop it rattling around or moving during flight. No battery hatch needed, I don't find the removal of wing bands a chore to swap flight batteries between flights as it only takes a few minutes at most. The model retains its original Solartex covering (including tailplane) and balances spot on 81mm from the leading edge without any additional 'dead weight' ballast. The C of G can go further back to 110 mm and still be OK if somewhat more responsive to control inputs. Flight times of 15mins plus are easily achieved with plenty of capacity in reserve. Edited By Capt Kremen on 18/09/2012 22:31:07

Hi Cirrus, I (routinely) replace the soft 'Chinese' metal axles on ARTFs like the 'Wot4', 'AcroWot', 'Riot' etc. with the stub axles from Dubro (other brands are available too). Tap in a search on the inter-web and you'll find them. Add bigger wheels and so far I can fly of even the worst pot-holed, bovine encrusted, horse-shoe divetted flying sites!

Congrats Ian on the successful first outing The more forward C of G seems a fairly common adjustment. Ian & Piers - Did either of you experience the power on/off - pitch up/down that I've read other 'Vampire' jet-jockeys have encountered? i.e. Power off, it pitchs up so you add power and a touch of down and it pitchs too much down. This has been suggested to be either the power-on 'jet' thrust striking the tailplane which itself may me at a less than ideal incidence to the main-wings. My 'Vamp' build is struggling, trying to check the balance of the fan on a supposedly top-notch magnetic prop balancer from the 'good 'ol US of A' ... Hmmm ... CK

Hi Chris, I've been using a 4-Max 3530 1100Kv outrunner turning an APC 12x6 prop, replaced 'soft' metal collet with better/durable one, all run from a 3s 3300mAh LiPo (enlarged battery cavity). Over 150+ flights to date (10-15mins) including getting a fellow club mate solo and his BMFA 'A' cert. A great model, IF a few 'tweaks' are done to upgrade some of the components. (Larger Wheels, Du-Bro Axles, HiTec Servos, uprated ESC positioned in the cooling airflow, better nose leg steering tiller/flat filed on leg too). I do have an original ST motor if you realy, realy have your heart set on one but the bearings(?) go on these, certainly if you put the flight hours in I have on my 'Disco'. Cheers, Capt. K.

Any hints or tips on kit assembly? (My 'Vampire' box sits waiting patiently in front of me). i.e. Did 'assemblers' use any home-made jigs to ensure booms and tailplane are rigged correctly to wings(s) and fuselage pod? Are the incidences wing/tailplane critical or 'just stick it together as is'? What is the best adhesive to use on the model - epoxy (used sparingly to avoid adding too much weight), uhu-por or similar foam friendly glue, or a foam friendly superglue? Good luck with the 'maiden' Ian, eager to hear how you get on.