Martin McIntosh

Timbo, guess what, I disagree with that statement! I suggested a 35mHz as a starter because it will be with us for some time to come and will teach a tyro pegboard routine. They may well become an instructor or even examiner very soon and  must learn the basics. Also, 2.4, although not new technology, is still in its infancy  re model flying and does not as yet offer a top range set of gear, so if the perfomance of my basic set is anything to go by, will be worth the wait. I have to admit that I did not consider teaming the two systems with a buddy lead. MM.

1)Join a club with a proper training programme, even if this entails driving a few more miles. 2) Use whatever gear the locals do so that you will be able to fly with a buddybox. Buy the cheapest NEW gear compatible with the above and when proficient, you will be in a better position to decide on your next outfit, which should be a top range set and will last you for many years. There is nothing wrong with 35mHz gear, so this would be a good starting point. By the time you are proficient 2.4 will have advanced a lot so I would advise you to wait a bit, because the buddybox system will probably not be available on this frequency at your club as yet. Regards,MM.

3/16 ply? I doubt it. Most likely laminated from two pieces of 3mm liteply. Available from any model shop. Sounds like a bit of an overkill to me. Must weigh a ton! By the way, I offer a build/repair service. Regards, MM.

Alvin, no, you have got it wrong. Zap-a-gap is medium thick/ slow ca. You must insert the hinge first then apply very thin ca so that it capilliaries into the hinge and the wood. You do not apply ca to the hinge first! MM.

I guess that hinging is a major stumbling block for newcomers to the hobby and ARTF`ers. Perhaps an article in the mag. would not go amiss David? There must be many out there who have only just started and have not seen previous mags. MM.

Alvin, you must only use ca on `hairy` mylar hinges. Push a set into the control surface and apply super thin ca to each side of the hinges. Push these into the flying surface and again apply ca. If using metal pinned hinges, you should always use epoxy. Coat the hinge line with Vaseline, fit to the control surface and allow to set, then epoxy to the flying surface. When hardened, chip away any excess with a blade until the hinges are free moving. The Vaseline barrier will ensure that the epoxy does not cause the hinges to sieze. You MUST then push a dressmaking pin through the hinges on each surface and snip off to leave flush. With practise this is very easy. Regards, MM.

Thanks Peter, I shall try that.

Try making epoxy/glass cowls. They are very easy and so much stronger and better all round.

Grumps, I seem to remember about 180C. There was an article in one of the modelling mags some time ago on this subject on which my vacformer was based. The problem with the design is that  you need to use a standard sheet of acetate. I found that using plaster of paris which was taken from a male balsa, then a female glass  mould resulted in a mould which required so much heat to the plaster that it cracked when heated. The answer is to use a hardwood former in the first place but then this would entail a fair bit of work. Do not know what Vortex use. Martin. 

Got the video - think I can better that but not enough of a computer wizard yet to get you pics. Martin.

Ta

I needed a canopy for a very specialised 1/4 scale model, so I made a vacform box from wood, to which a a vacuum cleaner could be attached. The acetate sheet has to be clamped in a frame which will fit over the perforated top surface of the box. Heat the acetate in the oven until it sags a lot, then quickly place over the frame with the vacuum running. A heat gun will help with any awkward bits, but this is very time consuming and expensive when you get it wrong!

Nick, I was thinking of models up to 10 lbs!

Elliot, what span/ weight is your Spit? Exactly which motor are you using please? I have a newly flown Nihuis 63" Spit with home made servo slows, one leg 4 secs, the other 5 secs, using modified digi servos. I cannot view any of your videos! Why?

Thanks Al

Nick, yes, the wing will be flat on top. I intend to use this design because 1) it is the right size for the intended power plant, 2) most Caps fly well, 3) everyone else seems to go for the 232. The hinges mentioned wll work with most models, but obviously not giants. You must use SUPER THIN cyano.

I want it to more interesting!

Thanks Timbo, I shall look into those sources.

I divorced mine years ago - Much more space to store your models and no hassle - try it M.M.

Basically, the servos provided with a standard set of gear should be just about right for a 60 2-stroke powered model. Go above/below this and you can increase servo power/ reduce size in proportion to the weight of the model. M.M.

Does anyone know of a source of decent piano wire? The stuff in the model shops at the moment can be bent by a 5 year old by hand. Some years ago I bought a set of GWS micro retracts for indoor use and it was all I could do to bend the 16swg wire with pliers! Where do they get it? Martin Mc.

Hmmm, don`t know how to take that. Is it someone more knowledgeable than you or I? Please see my profile for my experience in modelling! I have a 1.4x Limbo Dancer with a OS91FX up front, meagre Perkins five quid servos in the wing, but it requires 6kgm+ on elevator. I very rarely use full power except when going vertically upwards. Due to the general slow/stalled flying, this is all which is required, but would not dream of trying this with a much smaller, faster, aerobat. As you say, it is down to feel and experience with what works. In the good/bad old days we all used curved snakes to the ailerons, or bellcranks, when all radio gear came with just four servos and it was a week`s wages to buy an extra one, but they cost peanuts now. The weight of the model must, of course be taken into consideration. Not meaning to be grumpy, Martin.

Difficult question. A 48" Spit with a 40 motor would be quite fast, so I would say standard servos of about 3-4kGm/cm on elevator and rudder, and mini (not micro) ie. HS81 or MSX-3 x2 on ailerons. A 100" Mitchell would not be too demanding, being comparatively slow, so JR DS811`s all round, with one on each on aileron and elevator, or the none-digi 591`s should be adequate. A 3D model, in the range of 50" upwards, would require 1-4 servos per control surface but I guess that is not what you have in mind. Most electric models in the 1-1/2 lb range should be OK with micros. If you want accuracy on a fast aerobat, go for standard size coreless or digi up to about 5kgm weight. The pricy high power digis are only really necessary on competition or gas turbine models. I use mini servos on throttle and air retracts.

A couple of comments which may be of use. 1-To make a mirror image of a single sided wing plan, simply coat the required areas with paraffin to make the plan translucent. By the time you have completed the model it will have evaporated. 2-To cut ply up to 1/32", just use scissors. Above this, use a fret or preferably an electric scroll saw such as made by Dremel or sold by B&Q. Lite ply up to 3mm may be cut with a standard Swan-Morton scalpel, but unless you have the ability to regrow fingers do not try this on birch ply above 1/32"! 3-I now always go for "hairy" mylar hinges glued with super thin cyano. Just a thin slot is required and the installation is very quick and definitely permanent. 4- I have built a few various Caps and intend to build this model, but with much larger ailerons and will try a 600W electric set-up.

Since you will not be attempting to fly your rather ambitious projects for a very long time, get a basic 35mHz new/used set so that you get used to the subtlties of installation of gear and the etiquette of flying with other users, then look at what everyone else is using and buy the best set of gear you can afford. You may not need all of the gizmos at the time but you will later be glad that you invested in this because it will last you for many years.