EvilC57
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Everything posted by EvilC57
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I’m currently building a large twin engined model from plans, the wing and nacelles for which were cut out, and the nacelles test fitted into specially prepared gaps in the wing structure back in the summer. The nacelles, which were a perfect sliding were then removed and set aside, as I thought it would make the wing easier to handle while sheeting it, fitting the ailerons & servos etc. without the bulky nacelles being in the way. So now at the end of November having also built the fuselage, I’m ready to fit the nacelles permanently. Remember back in the summer, these were a perfect sliding fit into the gaps in the wings. Not now! I’ve sanded the sides of the gaps, but they’re still a tight fit, so I’ve bought the wing and nacelles from my modelling shed into the house for a few days. Hopefully the central heating and lower humidity will dry the wood out sufficiently to loosen the fit, so I can get the glue in. Who would have thought the weather could make such a difference to the dimensions of the wood!
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Posted by Shaun Walsh on 16/11/2020 13:04:40: Posted by EvilC57 on 16/11/2020 12:09:07: I treated myself to a new 6 inch steel rule last week, and noticed the label on the back of the protective cover it came in. The thing is, which do I believe? Is it precision made, or are all figures approximate? I think this highlights the difference between accuracy and precision. The ruler is precision made, so if you compare lots of different examples of this ruler they will give you the same measured figure, however they may not be accurate So you could measure a piece of wood that is actually 15.0cms long with several different examples of the same ruler and get exactly the same measurement but that measurement may be 14.8cm, so it's precise, but not accurate. Edited By Shaun Walsh on 16/11/2020 13:05:38 I suspect the ruler is reasonably accurate. However I would imagine the declaration on the label is more of a backside covering statement, as there’s no indication of calibration or conformance to national standards. -
Posted by Shaun Walsh on 16/11/2020 13:04:40: Posted by EvilC57 on 16/11/2020 12:09:07: I treated myself to a new 6 inch steel rule last week, and noticed the label on the back of the protective cover it came in. The thing is, which do I believe? Is it precision made, or are all figures approximate? I think this highlights the difference between accuracy and precision. The ruler is precision made, so if you compare lots of different examples of this ruler they will give you the same measured figure, however they may not be accurate So you could measure a piece of wood that is actually 15.0cms long with several different examples of the same ruler and get exactly the same measurement but that measurement may be 14.8cm, so it's precise, but not accurate. Edited By Shaun Walsh on 16/11/2020 13:05:38 I suspect the ruler is reasonably accurate. However I would imagine the declaration on the label is more of a backside covering statement, as there’s no indication of calibration or conformance to national standards.
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I treated myself to a new 6 inch steel rule last week, and noticed the label on the back of the protective cover it came in. The thing is, which do I believe? Is it precision made, or are all figures approximate?
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With inspiration from Shaun Walsh, Simon Cragg and jrman above... People (usually young adults and teenagers) who have to say ‘like’ all the time. So basically like I should of learned to talk proper English like when I were at school. Edited By EvilC57 on 23/10/2020 09:34:18 Edited By EvilC57 on 23/10/2020 09:36:38
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Ive bought several things other than lipos from HK in the last few months. Each time, testing to see whether the postage would be less from their UK warehouse or from Europe, it’s been considerably cheaper from Europe so I’ve ordered from there. OK so you have to wait a bit longer for stuff to turn up from there, but unless it’s urgent I’d rather save the pennies.
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Posted by EvilC57 on 12/10/2020 07:26:16: People who are ‘bored of’, rather than ‘bored with’ annoy me. Along with those who ‘could/should of’, when they ‘could/should have’.
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People who are ‘bored of’, rather than ‘bored with’ annoy me.
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Jet Pack Paramedic - Coming to a Hillside Near You!
EvilC57 replied to EvilC57's topic in Jets and Turbines
Posted by Ben B on 30/09/2020 22:50:55: They're amazing devices but how many people in the world can fly one and how many people have tried? It's far from simple to fly one of those devices. It's a steep learning curve and not everyone has the core strength and co-ordination. They (BBC Breakfast) interviewed the designer on TV, and he said most people pick it up within two days of training on a safety tether. He also said some have picked it up within 5 to 10 minutes. I guess it’s a matter or coordination and balance, like learning to ski or ride a bike. -
Jet Pack Paramedic - Coming to a Hillside Near You!
EvilC57 replied to EvilC57's topic in Jets and Turbines
I think he may have a larger engine on his back too. -
This has just been covered by BBC Breakfast. It seems the Great North Air Ambulance Service are seriously looking at using jet pack suits to rapidly deliver a paramedic to people in trouble on mountains... **LINK** Edited By EvilC57 on 29/09/2020 09:44:32
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I guess I should have taken the demise of Connie Conradie’s model in the article as an omen!
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Posted by EvilC57 on 11/09/2020 08:46:50: Posted by Jonathan M on 11/09/2020 08:01:24: Well done for sorting out the engine and sorry about the demise of the Marquess itself. From a quick gander at the design, originally for CL, it doesn't look like it was ever going to be the easiest small RC model to fly! Tailplane area too small with insufficient moment arm? Interesting you should say that Jonathan. I can’t remember where now, but when I was researching the Marquess before I built it, I read a report or post from someone who‘d also built one and lost it in a crash. I’m used to flying small, fast EDFs etc., so I don’t think it was lack of skill on my part (he says, trying to deflect the blame!). Looking for a new home for the 15LA now then - back to the Traplet (Sarik) plans catalogue I guess. Just established where I read about someone else who had also lost a Marquess on its maiden flight. It was an article in last April's RCME, reproduced below... seems small Marquesses aren't meant to fly!
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Yes. The general consensus on the flying field yesterday was ‘Yep, we’ve all been there.’ Scrape up the bits and carry on! The most important thing is, I ditched it in a safe area and no one was hurt. Edited By EvilC57 on 11/09/2020 09:08:32
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Posted by Jonathan M on 11/09/2020 08:01:24: Well done for sorting out the engine and sorry about the demise of the Marquess itself. From a quick gander at the design, originally for CL, it doesn't look like it was ever going to be the easiest small RC model to fly! Tailplane area too small with insufficient moment arm? Interesting you should say that Jonathan. I can’t remember where now, but when I was researching the Marquess before I built it, I read a report or post from someone who‘d also built one and lost it in a crash. I’m used to flying small, fast EDFs etc., so I don’t think it was lack of skill on my part (he says, trying to deflect the blame!). Looking for a new home for the 15LA now then - back to the Traplet (Sarik) plans catalogue I guess.
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First the good news: Took the model to the field today, and the OS 15LA behaved itself at last! It started first pull, and ran faultlesly the right way up (model upside down). I turned the model over, and the engine kept running this time. So somewhere between a new Enya plug, a new carb, a newly resealed crankcase back plate, a shortened fuel feed pipe from the tank and fresh fuel, we got there. Thanks for all the suggestions along the way fellow modellers. Now the bad news: The model was completely unflyable, despite following the plan and suggested CofG positioning to the letter. I suspect from the way it wallowed about and wouldn't respond to control inputs, that the CofG was all wrong. Unfortunately while trying to fight it, it ended up in a dangerous position behind the pits so I had to ditch it. The model is no more - still, the newly sorted engine has survived! In my experience, that's the thing with building from plans, you're never sure what your're going to get. Some of my plan-built models have been (and still are) excellent fliers, while others are duds.
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Posted by Robin Colbourne on 08/09/2020 12:05:48: EvilC57, I would just like to add that I hope your weather has improved, as I'm eagerly awaiting the next instalment! :-D Robin No IC powered flying or engine running is allowed at our club on Tuesdays & Wednesdays, to give the neighbours some peace. However Thursday this week is looking good weather wise. So you’ll have to wait I’m afraid...! I refitted the engine in the model this morning, and have shortened the feed pipe between the tank and the needle jet input, to remove the loop that was in it, and provide absolute minimum distance fuel has to travel between tank and carb. I also had the exhaust apart to check for any blockages or deposits which may have been causing problems.
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Posted by J D 8 on 07/09/2020 17:08:43: What was the exhaust like? If you mean exhaust deposits, there weren't any because the engine was out in the open on the test stand, so no model catch any deposits. If you mean was it clear or smoky, relatively clear, but most of the testing was done in drizzle, so wasn't the clearest of air to see what was really going on. I'll have another go in some better weather sometime.
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Update: New Enya No.3 plug fitted (as per my earlier post), crankcase back plate newly resealed with silicone, exhaust pressure nipple checked to be clear. Tank dismantled, clunk and other pipework checked to be correct. Tank reassembled. ------ Turned up at the field and had to wait in the car for 30 minutes for the rain to stop. Engine right way up on the stand started first spin on the starter, and ran OK up to maximum RPM after a minor tweek of the needle (bearing in mind I'd had to remove the needle in order to remove the engine from the model). Stopped the engine, and turned it upside down by clamping the test mount to the underside of my B&D Workmate bench, turning the tank right side up in the process. Engine reluctantly restarted and run up to full RPM for most of the remaining tank's worth of fuel. Thought I'd try the OS F four-stroke plug as suggested by a number of people here (after carefully checking that the piston cleared it at TDC). Engine wouldn't run at more than about 1/2 throttle, so went back to the Enya No.3, with which the engine would also now not run at more than 1/2 throttle. I took a spare tank with me to try (as per earlier suggestions), but never got a chance as by this time the rain was coming down again, so gave up and came home for a cup of tea. All a bit inconclusive really.
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Posted by Engine Doctor on 06/09/2020 17:29:09: If your engine runs fine when upright and set correctly then plays up when turned inverted I would suspect the tank set up or possibly the plumbing in the tank . If it as anything to do with the plug it would behave the same upright . I’ll add a different tank to the list of things to take with me for my bench tests at the field tomorrow. It’s something else to be eliminated from the list of possible causes.
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Posted by Maurice Dyer on 06/09/2020 16:09:03: As I originally said: never had a problem running an inverted two banger on OS F plugs.😊 Maurice I shall take one with me to the field tomorrow, in case the engine doesn’t get on with new new Enya No.3 I’ve fitted.
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Posted by PeterF on 06/09/2020 15:34:37: Posted by Richard Wills 2 on 06/09/2020 14:15:04: cold plugs are for 'cold'engines, thicker wire keeps heat better and more platuinum surface area for the catalytic reaction with the methanol, and keeps the fire burning. Hot plugs are for 'hot' engines normally smaller ones which don't need the help. They mainly alter the ignition timing depending on where they lie in the heat range. Funny, i always thought it was opposite, put a tuned pipe on an engine (make it hotter) and you need a colder plug, the plug runs cooler. Just Engines also believe this to be the case, extract from their website Glow Plugs The right choice of plug can make all the difference to engine performance and reliability. The general ‘rule of thumb’ is: Hot engine = Cold plug and Cold/Cool engine = Hot plug. So, if you have an older, slightly tired engine or you prefer to use straight fuel you should choose a hot plug. If you have a high performance, high revving 2 stroke that is working very hard a cooler plug is a good idea. Always use four stroke plugs in four stroke engines, and they are also very good in inverted two strokes where starting and running at idle can be difficult. See Just Engines glow plugs Interesting. So my take from this is that with the OS 15LA being what I would call a bog standard, ‘cooking’ engine (i.e. not a sporty one), that it will run cooler than a high performance engine, and therefore need a hotter plug. Interesting too, that Just Engines should also suggest a four-stroke plug for an inverted two-stroke. I’d not heard of that before I started this thread.
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Posted by Maurice Dyer on 06/09/2020 13:01:07: I run inverted two stroke engines on a four stroke OS F plug. Always works for me. Maury Thanks Maury, I’ll bear that one in mind.
