Ron Gray

Many thanks for your kind words Gordon, I’ve said this before but getting these sort of responses make it all worthwhile especially when things have been learnt from them! There will be more build Vlogs as I have quite few to do! Regarding the FW’s speed, for the vast majority of the flights it was flown a bit faster than ‘scale’ so that I could get used to it and it was also flown way faster than scale when I was doing some full throttle fly pasts as that always brings a grin! The landings weren’t too bad as long as the approach is a long one which gives the model time to slow down, the next flights should be better as I’ve now settled on the amount of noseweight required and I now know how it flies. I will be filming it again to makeup for the poor quality of the last one!

Sorry, I meant longer not lower!

The final Chapter 30

The video is currently being uploaded to YouTube. TBH it's not the best video due to the fact that I had the GoPro angled too high and that it was a really horrible sky for photos. The video is actually the second flight as I hadn't go the camera switched on for the maiden! From the launch I didn't need to input any trim changes at all, it just flew straight and level out of the launcher's hand but I felt that it was a bit nose heavy. So for the second flight which the video shows I had removed 1/3rd of the nose weight which made it slightly more sensitive but the 45º inverted climb showed it to still be nose heavy, however the onlookers all agreed that it didn't look as good as it did in the maiden flight. So I will be putting a bit more lead back in the ballast box. The stall is non existent and it was 'planted' throughout its flights showing a good (non scale) turn of speed with WOT, flight times were circa 8 minutes which left just over 30% in the 3700mAh 4s packs. It does take a bit of time to slow down on landing so lower approaches are the order of the day but it comes in nice and flat. Hand launching was easy and there was no torque roll or nose dipping. It's a winner!

Later Eric, it’s the final chapter in the VLOG, Chapter 30.

Maiden flight day

Using my Dubro prop balancer.

As a matter of interest did you try and charge the one ‘dead’ cell. I’ve done that on a number of occasions, true it’s mainly been if I’ve had 1 cell that’s badly out of balance but I’ve also done it on an otherwise ‘dead’ cell. Even having done that the ‘repaired’ battery is consigned to desk duty.

I know only too well the problem with WiFi signals as our cottage is built from clay lump which, due to its nature, contains a fair bit of moisture!

You can just drop the (filtered) delivery tube into the bottle, however it is better if you modify the top for both the delivery tube and vent as that will prevent dirt getting into the bottle. I've modified the top for mine and have the pump attached to the bottle with quick release zip ties, that way I can easily put them onto a new bottle when the fuel runs out.

That would explain it, in the heady heights of South Norfolk we are 41m above sea level!

If anyone wants balance boxes and battery trays let me know, I've already cut some for Murat! PM me if you are interested.

If you have used charcoal to weather / detail your FW then make sure that you seal it before flying as damp grass will wipe the charcoal off! I've used a water based satin floor varnish on mine, with 2 coats on the underside.

Just following on with the motor / power them, I tested my Overlander 3548 900Kv yesterday and with a 4s battery and spinning a 12x8 APC it was pulling 60a and was showing just over 800w. So an 11x8 prop would also be OK and may save some landing breakages. If you are using the alloy spinners then balance them first, mine was quite a bit out so I rotated the front piece through 180º and that helped but it still needed some balance weight.

I had to replace the motor on mine, the Overlander that was in the model was faulty so I had to get another one. Tested it yesterday and at WOT with an APC 12x8 it's pulling 60a and producing just over 800W which should be more than enough! A word of caution though if you have the alloy spinners, test them for balance, mine was quite a bit out, turning the front section through 180º helped but it still needed a bit of balance weight.

Simply superb!

I only listen to DAB radio in my car!

Battery tray designed and built

APC 12x8 to start with Jon.

Chapter 29 - Final build bits plus a bit of Parton

We can see that in the photo, the exhausts have fallen off!

I’m still amazed by how many models I can get inside my Ioniq 5, including the 82” (one piece wing) Hurri at the same time as the 72” (one piece wing) Mustang. The SIG Rascal 110” will also just fit in even with the u/c on. In fact the only one that won’t fit is the Giant Revolver and that goes in the trailer. Regarding range, on a freezing cold day with a/c on plus heated seats and heated steering wheel it shows 220 miles (80 down from a ‘normal’ day) and I charge at home @7.5p / kWh.

Oops, Brian not Brain, although I could be talking to my brain.

I'm not too concerned Brain as it's needed and it only slightly takes me over my 'target weight' of 4lb 8oz. Even at 4lb 13oz this is a very light model so nothing to worry about.

Just been checking the weight and the CG. To get to the 70mm back from LE I have to add about 217g (approx 7.5 oz) of lead to the nose, this brings the overall AUW to approx 2.2Kg (4lb 13oz) which is slightly heavier than I was hoping for but still OK. Of course a larger, heavier motor would offset some of that - mine's a 3548 so a 4250 would add about 50g.