MikeQ

Hi. Yeah, theres plenty of youtubes etc out there. I’m not much of a scale bod myself but can appreciate the results. like this guy

Hi i would definitely recommend tissue over some form of mylar. Never used doculam but i have seen club mates larger models, like Junior 60, covered in doculam and tissue. Very smart. One thing though, I had the impression it might be a bit on the thick or heavy side for 36”? Not sure what the other guys think? 10micron mylar from Freeflight supplies (Mike Woodhouse) might be a better choice? I’d use Non shrinking or 20% max shrinking dope. I would also stick to the light grades of tissue too. Unfortunately lightweight Jap Esaki tisssue isn’t availabke anymore although Woodhouse may have sourced an alternative by now? One of the big advantages of tissue over film (mylar or doculam) is that the tissue doesn’t go brittle after a few years. cheers mike PS. Do a search for printing camo schemes on tissue on google and Youtube. A lot of the scale Freeflight guys come up with amazing results using a printer! HippocketAeronautics forum would also be a great place for advice on same (although it lost a lot of content due to a crash recently)

Hi Chris thanks for the heads up. I’d seen the Freddie B Sauce on the other threads. I’ll keep it in mind. How is your build going? cheers mike

Maybe ... not sure.

Hi Frank a lot of these old motors look like junk compared to modern motors but one mans meat is another mans poison and all that. There were and are a lot of CL kits/designs aimed specifically at the OS35 and similar motors. Max power isn’t necessarily whats wanted for these models. Tractability and predictable behaviour are more important. in good condition it will be a very useful motor to the right people. Control Line is still on the go ... although only practiced by masters of dark arts. A bit like Freeflight (and no, I don’t mean the FF nonsense after hours at the RC nats🤣) its definitely not one for the bin. Put it on ebay or Barton Control Line site for sure. https://www.ebay.com/itm/125953046581

Yes Someone on Barton Control Line site would quite possibly snap your hand off depending on condition. Failing that, I have a Mercury Cobra it would fit in nicely 😀 Mike

“I love the sound of peel ply tearing in the morn8ng” 😀 On with glassing the wings. The slight dimples peel ply leaves are easily knocked back with 300-400 wet and dry. WestSystems 105/206 and 25g cloth from East Coast Fibreglass supplies. mike

Bit more progress ... wing mounts nearly sorted.

Hi I just kept hitting these PLA Mk117ish bombs I drew up with Halfords high build yellow primer and gently sanding back. About 4 coats each. Easy enough on simple shapes but would be a pain I imagine on a figure/head. Tamiya acrylic primer and Tamiya Acrylics after that. When finished dust with a satin 2K clear coat (or matt or gloss as required). Mike PS the bomb racks were only given a single coat of primer. Don’t sand too hard. Maybe 280 grit wet and dry used wet

Hi thanks. Got it to a point where I can finish the detail work later. Just wanted to get it too a point I can move on with other major bits and pieces. Will give it a rest on the cockpit for now. Wing mount next. Back to balsa bashing thank god. mike

Armour plate added. Not sure it will stop a 37mm round 😀

Haha ... when you know youve bitten off more than you can chew 😂 Seem to have been faffing for ages and getting no where.

More pics. Just need to make sure the instruments go in horizontal 🤣 The Tiger Moth examples were big enough to cut out with Swan Morton but was sure I could improve on that. The jig is a first pass with scrap transparency used for the ‘target hole’. Held on with double sided sticky tape. Will ‘posh’ it all up now I know it works. lol, defo too much time. Also played around with transfer sheets printing ‘data plates’. Results won’t be too bad applied over a white or silver background.

Hi bit more progress and obviously too much time on my hands. What else to do when the weatger is too cold to go in the garage or get out on the mountain bike 😀. Why not take on a job that is bigger than it looks. Thought i’d try and do a decent scale-ish cockpit out of 3D prints and styrene sheet etc. Wish i hadnt started now 🤣. Downloaded the stls for the instruments and resin printed them. Vallejo/Tamiya acrylics to paint them. Evergreen sheet for the panel frames etc. Have sealed the front formers etc so no gaps and given a coat or two of non shrink dope to prevent dust flying around inside once finished. Will probably do same again just before final assembly of all the bits (they all pop out at the minute). Don’t ask how i painted inside the footwells all around after sheeting etc. But it was a pain. For the instrument panel i thought I’d try and improve on what i did with my RC conversion of a free flight Mercury Tiger Moth where i cut the instruments out with a scalpel. Thought i’d use my never used ‘Thinliner’ circle cutter. Problem is, how to centre super accurately on top of the Boots photo printed instrument of choice. After a bit of head scratching I came up with a jig in Inventor2022. 3D printed and bingo. Works a treat. If i was a dog i’d lick ............ its a bit of a trial and error faff to get the Thinliner set up for the ‘exact’ diameter to be a sliding fit in your instrument hole but fortunately the Sabre stl I downloaded only has two sized holes 😀. 3D printed some tiny butt plugs for the back to help get the instruments to the right depth evenly. You can even thinliner out glass faces over the top. Will use Vallejo gloss to glue in place plus a touch of 3D rwsin zapped with UV light on each plug on the back. hope the pics explain it. Still a bit of faffing to get it bang on but hope results will lok ok 😀.

Bit more progress now I’m getting the Office/model shop sorted. WAY too cold to be in the garage. Planking done for the most part. On with buddy in the cockpit. lol, remember when Aeromodelling was ‘jumpers and goalposts’ like in the picture. I wasn’t looking quite so happy woth myself as the kid in the pic back in 1981 with a DC Spitfire engined Tomboy with flat diesel fuel and no idea what I was doing. They were the days 😂

Jeez ... Thanks for pointing out the obvious. Not sure how i missed that. Is this what its like whenyou turn 50+ ... you turn into a total fud😀 I’ll be walking round looking for my glasses when they on the top of my head ... oh wait ... thats already happened. cheers mike

Hi anyone know of a motor similar spec to the P51 Motor/Gearbox cocmbo? Seems to be discontinued. https://www.stevensaero.com/product/pkz3624/ Its for an Indoor FF model I’ve had on the back burner and want to get going. cheers mike

Yeah, working again thanks. mike

Outerzone seems to be down. Hope its temporary. Anyone know whats happened to Hippocket Aeronautics forum? Has it been ‘rebooted’ somewhere else? Sadly, Ibelieve Ratz passed away so not looking good. mike

You’re right. PM me your adress and I’ll send you the transfer sheets and a SAE so you can do them for me 😂 Seriously though, I’ll ask the neighbour as he still hasn’t returned my VHS SeaAngler video on tying knots from 2002. @leccflyer. That looks pretty good but just in case I’m being thick. This is printing inkjet on vinyl to create a peel and stick type decal as opposed to an Airfix/Tamiya waterslide type one right? Or you went with a laser equivalent paper?

haha .... fair enough. In my defence, i guess I did include .. thanks for all the feedback. cheers mike

Hi thanks, didn’t ignore it per se but its nearly £30 a litre and idea is to save money to a certain extent. I didn’t explain that clearly in first post. Its a good shout but too pricey considering the driver is to replace Halfords white spray. But thanks anyway. MauriceN PM’d a link which lead me to Google properly this time. This stuff works out much cheaper than the Halfords stuff. Fair enough you still need to add thinners on top. https://www.colourtone.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=443 https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-and-body-repair/primer/halfords-primer-white-500ml-473124.html I’m beginning to think I’m overthinking it really. For each model once or twice a year its only a couple of tins of Halfords stuff anyway. Given the cost of all the other nonsense like model, fuel, engine, radio or control line bits and bobs, covering, paint etc ... i might be fiddling whilst Rome burns here.

Ideally I’d love to get into butyrate dope finishes as they look fantastic and apart from the polishing and sanding look easy to apply. Not readily available in the UK at all and very pricey (need to buy in bulk from full sized aviation suppliers) for any one interested, check out Sparkys Stunthanger channel on Youtube. Tye yanks certainly know how to finish models (light) 😀

Hello chaps back to low volume pricey rattle cans then. The advantage of the tin of P88 is its a big 5L tin and I can thin and paint/spray as needed. works out a lot cheaper than rattle cans of Halfords yellow/grey/white. was looking for same same as the P88 but in white. I can live with he “UPOL P88 high build grey / Halfords white finishing primer” combo. Just thought It would be worth exploring if a white nitro based finishing primer was available in a ‘big tin’. Don’t think it is based on various threads and calls to body shops. nee luck 😀

Hi Jon think we hit send at same time. Yeah, i don’t really want to go down the 2K primer route as my understanding is they are pretty nasty. Worse than 2K paints so I’m told. I mainly use P88 grey for the high build, then Halfords white for the final prep. Paints are usually Oracolor or Klasskote with their OEM specific clears over the top. I was in touch with KlassKote and Oracolor makers and they both said their 2K paints have no isocryolates in them. Still use in an open door garage with ABEK1P3 mask and all that. Lol, lot of bother for a profile control line model 🤣