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Eric Robson

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Everything posted by Eric Robson

  1. Hi Jon, not the end of the world, two options leave it as it is and when you glue the bottom sheet on let it overhang and trim it to the right size the add a piece to the end of the rib and sand it flush with the sheet. Or depending on the glue used it may loosen if you dampen it and you will be able to re position it in the right place.
  2. Just a little tip. When shaping the block of balsa for the intake scoop I 0ffered it up to the former it buts up to and cut a piece of 1/4" square to fit in the former and glued it to the block. this was done before the bottom was sheeted. after sheeting I was able to hold the block firmly in place while blending it in to the fuselage. Regarding smoke. my Son bought a tuned brushed motor for a Ripmax Spitfire half way through the first flight there was a smoke trail that would do the Red Arrows proud. He managed to land it ok and found the motor had burnt out no other damage thankfully.
  3. Hi Jon, did you put a spacer between R2&R2a it calls for a gap of1mm between them to stop them binding in use.
  4. Hi Gordon, yes it is a standard Futaba servo, it just fits in. You may notice the 1/8" pieces glued to R2 , these were put there to support the servo plate which is slightly short between the R2's and was only glued on the centre ribs. If you do this make sure the aileron servo leads are through before gluing the supports in. I have glued the servo in and have used scrap 1/4" balsa packing to keep it in place.
  5. For anyone wanting to use a single servo for the flaps this is how I set mine up. One of the plastic links that screw on to the bolt on the arm had no threads in so I had to use two small nuts one on top and one under. to allow adjustment. The block the 3 rods fit in came from a far eastern kit but as an alternative an electrical terminal could be used. Paul went for a servo for each flap so the choice is yours. Edited By Eric Robson on 10/01/2021 20:18:31
  6. As Trevor said bring the second wing to the same stage not forgetting to leave the rear part between R1 and R2 un sheeted for access to the flap mechanism (see Paul's build). It is a good time to check that the wings fit together before sheeting the underside, there should be no problem but if there is this is the time to sort it out. When I joined my wings I had the holes cut out for the wheel well but no vertical sheeting in place so I was able to clamp the centre ribs back and front to ensure a good joint. Eric.
  7. No. 1 for me when the second door opens I think " What did I come up here for". Edited By Eric Robson on 09/01/2021 10:26:57
  8. I can get plenty of that Ken, we are still allowed to burn coal here.
  9. That looks good Ken, no devcon needed. I am building one of these at the moment but it will be stars and bars. I like the under wing weathering, Mine generally get weathered by wheels up landings when the strip is wet and soggy, which is most of the time up here.
  10. Jonathan, there is enough balsa on the sheet for the cockpit sides to do the ribs unless it has been cut nearer the edge than mine.
  11. Just a word of warning, the wing dowels supplied need to be cut down as they protrude into the wheel well. If i had glued them before cutting out the wheel wells it would have been an awkward job to shorten them.
  12. Had a call on my mobile yesterday from Belarus. ignored it, obvious scam.
  13. Hi Jon, you can install the leads if you have them you would have to put the servo in also and secure it as the lead joins in side the wing. As the servo mount has to be made after the lower sheeting is in place you will have to pull it back out partially to fit it to the mount increasing the chance of pulling the lead back through with it . After the wing is sheeted and the leading edge and tips are glued on the wing will be turned over many times during shaping and sanding and the weight of the servo and leads may dislodge it . When you do join the servo to the extension make sure it is the right way around and the join is secure I wrap insulating tape around to hold the plug and socket together. I do not know at this point what experience you have with R/C, have you passed the trainer stage? What type of model have you put together etc. It would help to know as some of the answers Paul and myself are giving are basic and it would help to have an insight to your experience to save over elaborating the reply. We all want you to build this model successfully and will give you the support you need. Cheers Eric.
  14. Amazing, two of us flying at the field and we have a mid air crash! need to study the starlings
  15. Jon, just another thing after sheeting the wing top take a piece of strong thread , tie it to a piece of scrap balsa and lead it from where the aileron servo goes to the centre of the wing. This will enable you to feed the servo lead and extension lead through the wing after it is fully sheeted. Tape the balsa scrap to the upper sheeting. I have pulled the other end into the top sheet in the centre which has to be cut away later on in the build.
  16. hi jon, I don't know if you have started on the fuselage but you need the wing completed before the fuselage as the front of the wing has to be drilled for the dowels. I have marked R2 where it needs to be cut away for the flap actuator to get into position. This is done sooner rather than later, a fine razor saw is ideal or Dremel if you have a steady hand. The photo of the aileron rib assembly is as Pauls sketch. Eric.
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