Piers Bowlan

Like you Wiiispa, I work unsocial hours and most weekends too, so a club did not really suit me either. The model I built thirty years ago was fast, twitchy, unstable and fragile -not what you generally want in a trainer! Added to this I used to fly in some pretty wild conditions in Scotland at the time. Consequently my ratio of rebuilding hours to flying seconds was not very good and it is a wonder I did not give up -except that by then I was hooked. So it can be done but with the benefit of hindsight perhaps not the best way to do it. There are some good hills around Folkstone so get yourself a Wild Thing from Soar Ahead Sailplanes as well as building your balsa model - you will have a blast I promise you! Finally, Sims are great especially when the weather is bad or it is the middle of the night (!) but they are no substitute for the real thing so start building and just get on with it is my 2p worth!

'The Balsa Cabin' Here, do grades and ship to Europe too.

Terry, rather than laminating how about making them up from 3/32 sheet top and bottom, assuming you have some of that. Add a few triangular riblets plus a sheet LE. Will need to reinforce where the hinges are. Probably take no longer than shaping a thick sheet, if you had one that is, and lighter too. Edited By Piers Bowlan on 09/05/2013 09:38:18

'quick squirt of wd40 works well' Actually Linds WD40 will cause some covering films to stretch and go baggy so should be used with care. Always test a scrap piece first. I know the old solarfilm is affected in this way but probably not the solarfilm super shrink polyester. Piers.

Just ordered a Park Scale Mini Drake (micro flying boat) from them - should be fun. A great pity they are ceasing trading, a sign of the times sadly.

Wiiispa, Building a balsa model and flying it is very satisfying but when you complete your new model it will be a test flight. As this will also be your first flight, so haven't learnt to fly yet, the outcome is not likely to be a happy one - the model will probably end up in bits after a few milliseconds (ask me how I know!). Get someone else to check the model out and do the first flight to get it trimmed out and the control throws etc. sorted. You will then have a flyable model. By all means build but chose a design that has lots of wing area, stable and slow flying (Junior/Super Sixty?), It will be forgiving to fly and probably survive the odd tumble. Alternatively get a foam read to fly model like a Multiplex Easystar for example Here or an Easy Glider Pro or Fun Cub perhaps. These models fly well and are easy to repair plus spares are available. They will enable you to get lots of 'stick time' and progress quickly. If you still want to build your Tucano, as mentioned in another thread, do, You will have fun which is what it is all about, even if the flights are likely to be short!

Hi Wiiispa welcome, What aspect of the hobby interests you, Powered models, (Internal combustion or electric powered), Gliders, Helicopters, etc. Also do you fancy building a balsa model or do you prefer an almost ready to fly model that needs only assembly so that you can concentrate on the flying? What have you got so far - or about to get? Piers

Off-setting the engine/motor thrust line by three to five degrees to the right relative to the aircraft centerline will reduce your torque roll to the left after T/O. If the aircraft is just pulling left during your take off run plenty of right rudder should be enough to counter a turn to the left, however check that the geometry of your landing gear is correct, i.e. symmetrical and that one wheel is not binding. Also check the springing on your landing gear is not too soft/weak. Ensure that you have adequate flying speed before you rotate to take off, as if you unstick at too low an airspeed this will exacerbate your torque roll. A little more airspeed before you rotate will give you more rudder authority. Just my 2p worth.

Mike, yes the MPX BL motor 'Power Sets', as they call them, are eye wateringly expensive. No doubt very good quality but not great value in my view. See my previous post. Two motors and ESCs for £29 plus postage from Hobby King or alternatively get the XP 2836 1100kv motors if you have enough prop clearance on the Twinstar. What dia prop can you fit without it striking the Fuz?

My suggested set up would probably pull sub 20A with a 7X4 prop, so about 200W each motor on a 3s LiPo. I would guess that the Twinstar would be almost ballistic on that compared with your brushed set up. You could try 8x4 props instead but you might need 30A ESCs. Alternatively a lower Kv motor might be more efficient but would need a larger prop and I don't know how much clearance you have between the props and the Fuz.

I think most people reading this thread would be asking, why are you sticking with a brushed set up, apart from it is what you have. BL motors will be more powerful, much lighter and will not lose power due to the commutator becoming blackened and pitted due to the excessive current (coz they don't have one). A BL set-up doesn't have to be expensive, This would be my suggestion although there are many suitable cheap bell type motors that would probably also do the job. This is the Turnigy Plush ESC I would use. So two ESCs plus two motors would cost about £29 plus postage. Not too bad? Alternatively 4-Max in the UK do a suggested set up for the Twinstar. You have already replaced the brushed motors, receiver and about to buy another ESC, Save yourself some money and go brush less is my 2p worth. Edited By Piers Bowlan on 25/04/2013 11:04:34 Edited By Piers Bowlan on 25/04/2013 11:11:38

Would these 30A GWS units do? Here. If your 480s are pulling 15A eash you really need a 40A to 50A ESC to be safe and not risk another 'parked' model. Personally I would go brushless and get a couple of cheap BL motors and 25A Turnigy 'Plush' ESCs from HobbyKing (I have had a lot of success with this brand). Your Wattmeter is a wise investment that will save you a lot of money and frustration for years to come.

On second thoughts the TSR2 had just two wheels on each bogie. Here. Sorry to go off thread (again!)

Tony, the 98" span Vulcan would be too big for my little Wren 44, so what to do? Scale it down to 72" say or buy a bigger engine? Those fine looking retracts would be good for a TSR2 too. Perhaps your next project?

That's great Tony, very nice indeed. And even more exciting for me is sight of the long awaited Vulcan in the background. Which version of your Vulcan is that?

I was not 'taking a swipe' at HK, perhaps you are over sensitive. I am a great fan of HK products with many orders (nice flying model too-I have one). I didn't hear the 'ALL the proceeds go..." Humble pie time, sorry! I don't like to be picky but WZ507, the UK registered flying vampire is operated by the 'Vampire Preservation Group' (not Society), or not since 2009 as far as I am aware.

I would rather make a donation directly to The Vampire Preservation Group, here, ... and buy a Durafly Vampire for $109. 'Not a money making exercise for Hobbyking'. What proportion will HK get, or am i being just a tiny bit cynical in my old age? Maybe I am missing the point.

Go to Durafly.com here and bid at auction, Presently $338.33 (Friday 19th 08.45) so count me out! A lot of money for a bit of green and grey paint. They have got to be kidding!

DB Sport and Scale would get my vote too. Everything fits, never any issues with wood quality and fittings that are fit for purpose, also very good value. Many build blogs on the net and if all else fails Eddie or Judy will be happy to help if you run into a snag.

Like you Martin, I can't find any scientific explanation except this which says that LiPo's degrade with age regardless of whether they are used or not. When this occurs their internal resistance rises and this deterioration is accelerated if, 1) they are kept in a warm environment and, 2) that they are stored fully charged. It doesn't explain why however. It also suggests keeping them in the fridge is a good idea. He obviously doesn't know my wife

Also, Wren Turbines here. Note, 'open day', tomorrow 14th April.

What about DB Sport and Scale here Also Flitehook. Very good service from both.

Perhaps next months mag could have the errant ribs drawn correctly within its pages rather than reprinting the whole plan which is not necessary. It would reassure prospective builders who might have seconds thoughts about starting a project where there is a known issue with part of the drawing. No need to eat humble pie Peter, it was a minor printing error. Not your department!

Jurca Tempete gets my vote (or a Jurca Sirocco if you are prepared to do retracts). After all your control line model was a long time ago, so about time you did an RC version. It would be a popular choice too I am sure. I tend to agree the Polikarkpov I-16 is indeed an ugly beast Peter but it does have character in spades even if it would probably fly like a pig! The Yak would clearly be a good flier with its higher aspect ratio and skinny fuz although I am not a fan of the blister cowls myself. Perhaps a project shelved for a later date?

I use thick CA on EPO, I do use kicker and I haven't had any problems with melting it. Epoxy is not recommended on foam as it does not adhere well. Some people use Uhu Por but having used it once I will stick to CA in future.