Flying Squirrel

Thanks KC, things are becoming clearer!

That would be very much appreciated, thank you.

David that's very helpful thanks, managed to get the June and July copies so just May 2006 if anybody can help?

If anybody happens to have copies of RCMW May through July 2006 there seems to be some detail on this model in a feature, a copy of the article would be great but I can't find any back issues

That's interesting as the plan actually has Peter Millers name on, I'll research the turbulent and see if it helps guide me. Thanks for the steer. Thanks, Yes, that looks identical, I don't suppose you have an image of the actual servo connection?? Although I'm not actuially that concerned about 'scale appearance' It's a great learning curve for me and somehow I feel I'd be doing the designer an injustice just to bail out and do some kind of 'conventional' setup so all this help is much appreciated 👍

Thanks Andy, it appears to have 'pushrods' both on top and below the aileron so it's confusing me. I don't mind getting a bit ad hoc and putting 'normal' ailerons on but curious if there's a reason, some sort of mechanical differential?

You can indeed, IF you realise that you've actually signed up!

Hi All, maybe I've bitten off more than I can chew here but I bought the Phillip Kent clipped wing cub from Sarik thinking it shouldn't be too hard to build given given I'm best part through a Seagull P47 kit and I thought it should make a good stepping stone before flying the P47. However, I've studied the plans for quite some and although I can decipher most of it the aileron hinges have me baffled, I'll put the picture below but it looks like some kind of robart hinge installed at an angle which leaves quite a sizeable gap? It also looks like some kind of pull system? Also it doens't detail any of the servo mounting so any guidance would be welcomed with open arms!! I'm sure I'll have more questions

Cliff, just be careful you haven't inadvertently signed up for prime, they are know to be somewhat sneaky like that.

Andy, sorry, I missed that bit!! It's 100% not genuine

if you hover over the link it should display the path on the lower left of your screen, you should then see if it looks genuine or not?

In the UK I highly doubt this will be an issue for the hobbyist, more humid climates or keeping it in the garden then maybe..

I certainly sounds like the £6 for 3 genuine Creality switches would be money well spent, worth a try at least. For me it ended hours and hours of frustration. Your comments did make me laugh, pretty sure if NASA based a new launch system based on our print removal experience man would be on Mars within minutes. A quick squirt of IPA from a spritzer type bottle at the base of your print can help....sometimes.

Allan, I had a similar thing with my Ender 3 and it turned out to be a faulty Z limit switch (base of the left hand upright) it wasn't actioning at exactly the same point so may be worth keeping an eye on. At least it's a cheap fix. Unless you're a bit heavy handed removing prints it should need doing every time.

Thanks Andy, I'm OK with that bit, I just cant figure out the difference (if there even is one) between the three descriptions on the can?

I'm looking in to Oracolor as an option for a model I'm building but I can't work out if there are two type? One appears to call itself 'Elastic varnish and says so on the tin Another says Two component paint on the tin... And a third refers to base coat on the can!! But all of them are advertised as 'Oracolor 2 part paint' - I'm super confused!!

Thank you everyone, Bruce has confirmed my thoughts so it sounds like painting is the way forward. I'll do some etest peices and see how it looks. Wow that spit looks incredible!

I'm sorry to hear that Jon.

If there are any owners of the Seagull ARTF P47, are the stripes painted or iron on covering? How does it look like it's been applied at the factory?

Pretty sure I'll bin it before the paint flakes off! Given I have the stuff, I'd rather go with the oracover but still have loads of questions! Would I build it up in layers? ie. grey bottom and olive top then a wide white band, then two narrow(er) black bands? or Olive top and black bottom followed by strips of white and black as needed? working from say front to back on the fus and inboard to outboard on the wings? Not sure I've explained that very well!

Thanks Martin, yes I had it all figured out in my head until I got closer to doing it! One of the issues I can't get my head around is hard to explain but i'll try! Taking the fus stripes as an example, do I cut a straight strip of cover and 'work' it around the curves or do I need to cut some complex shape that allows for the curves so they look straight when veiwed from the side?

Ah ok, so painting oracover isn't an issue? I know what you mean with the roughly applied stripes but not convinced it'd translate well to a model that's only part scale?

Hey. So I'm building a seagul 63" P47 powered by a laser 100 and just about approaching covering stage but I'm begining to doubt what I'd planned is acheivable? I'd like to go full 'snafu' scheme as that's what the kits based on and as I don't live far from Duxford were the original crashed I thought it'd be cool but I've bought oracover, how the heck should I approach this, I'm sure I can handle the olive upper halves and grey lowers so specific questions are.. How would I apprach the 'invasion stripes' on the compound curves of the rear section of the fuse, it';s a razorback model Dito the wings, they are part sheeted and part open so no idea how to do the 'stripes' Is it even possible with oracover? Should I park that and glass it or other In case you hadn't guessed, I've not built anything more than artfs for 20 plus years and even then didn't fly what I built so not much experience. If it helps I could put pics of where I'm at up. Cheers

No technical opinion here but I do love seeing people making a model their own, following the ugly mustang thread was an eye opener for me in such as previously I'd be scared stiff to attempt any mods, now I'm quite happy chopping and carving to make things fit!

It's always worth feeding back to suppliers about their chosen shipper and if enough people do it it may just influence their choice in the future. I agree with Evri/Hermes, absolutely shocking and often avoid a purchase if it's coming via them.