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Reno Racer

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Everything posted by Reno Racer

  1. Reno Racer
    I'm very tempted, although suspect if I did get one the fad of using the rocket, I suspect, would wear off fairly quickly. I does look like a cracking model though.
  2. Reno Racer
    Yep, it was featured on the letters page. Funnily enough, I've also been after one again, I sold mine last year and have regretted it every since, beautiful model to fly. I am also trying (unsuccessfully) to get my hands on a discontinued H9 Hellcat 60 to then jazz up in FAA colours. For VQ models, I believe SloughRC stock them. You might also consider some of the big German online stores, hobby direct, mhm, CMC modellbau and others, they usually have a wide stock and I'm sure I've seen a VQ Dauntless on one of their sites. It takes a day or so longer in the post, but fairly easy and painless to order from Germany, albeit they do seem a bit more expensive.
  3. Reno Racer
    Gosh, glad I made the move to Futaba S-FHSS (T8J). So my old DSM2 Spektrum DX6i I use for BNF models ( now only 2) has a lifespan limitation!
  4. Reno Racer
    I would suggest about 800watts required. Good rule of thumb is times the IC engine by 2 then add a zero digit to get the watts required. I.e 46 x 2 = 92, therefore 920 watts. It's very rough, and a trainer would get away with less. The 4-max site has some good examples of WOT4s converted, which is similar in size,weight to your WOT Trainer.
  5. Reno Racer
    Bookmarked. Thanks Andy
  6. Reno Racer
    Thanks, Bill. It's probably my favourite aeroplane; I do like WW2 naval aircraft, particularly US. It's a pity the complex undercarriage puts so many manufacturers off. I think this is the first ARTF Wildcat with retracts and I think there are only 4 different sets of plans for larger (90+ size) versions. Pity, because they always fly well. Mid wing, lots of wing area, large stabiliser, largish fin and radial cowl to hide engines. It's almost made for RC as an easy flying warbird. Regards, RR
  7. Reno Racer
    New 1200mm span F4F Wildcat from LX models, with folding wings and scale retracts. Bought in kit form, which is like the old GWS kits. It's inspiration for my 1/6 scale scratch build from early 80s plans. Normally, it comes in Pacific blue US Navy scheme (or pre war silver with yellow wings). However, I decided to repaint, open the canopy, add scale weathering and coat with PolyC and Eze-Coat in a Royal Navy scheme. Just needs some stencilling finishing, but otherwise now ready to maiden.
  8. Reno Racer

    Rear view

    Reno Racer posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    Rear view
  9. Reno Racer

    Folded

    Reno Racer posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    Folded
  10. Reno Racer

    Far front

    Reno Racer posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    Far front
  11. Reno Racer

    Original kit

    Reno Racer posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    Original kit
  12. Reno Racer
    **LINK** Selling a Hangar 9 Denight Special, an Eflite Advance 25e and a Blade 200 heli. Denight Special just requires Rx and arc battery. Advance 25e requires Rx and lipos. Blade 200 is complete BNF with lipos and charger. Hopefully they all find a good home
  13. Reno Racer
    Nice day today, but with slight breeze at 90 degrees to the strip. Only had the small car today, so just the PK spitfire on its new retracts and my maiden of the Cambrian ME109. Retracts on spit just cause it to nose over when trying to take off, so back to hand launch, but at least can land on the wheels. Funfighter, a different issue. My home made take off dolly had a mind of it own, so ended up chancing it with a hand launch, of course it went off no probs and fast! Sadly my 4 oz tank seems to not last that long, I wonder if other funfighter flyers have used a bigger tank and amended the fuselage formers accordingly?
  14. Reno Racer
    Tomtom, On a 300kv motor on 6S you need to be looking at a 16-18" prop, obviously smaller if using a 3 or 4 blader. Ecalc is a good reference to use. Not all motors shown on the free one. You if you just keep reloading the webpage, you will find your motor. Quick calc of your motor shown below, suggested an 18 x 8 prop to get you near 1000 watts. Edited By Reno Racer on 08/04/2015 21:08:10
  15. Reno Racer

    Reno Racer posted a gallery image in Member Albums

  16. Reno Racer

    Eflite Advance 25e

    Reno Racer posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    Eflite Advance 25e
  17. Reno Racer

    Denight Special 2

    Reno Racer posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    Denight Special 2
  18. Reno Racer

    Denight Special 1

    Reno Racer posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    Denight Special 1
  19. Reno Racer

    Blade 200 2

    Reno Racer posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    Blade 200 2
  20. Reno Racer

    Blade 200 1

    Reno Racer posted a gallery image in Member Albums

    Blade 200 1
  21. Reno Racer
    If you want more of a warbird, you might try something like this. It a Hangar 9 Corsair 50 and flew beautifully in a 91 FS, which was slightly overpowered, a laser 80 would be ideal. Mine has been repainted and scaled out a bit from the standard ARF in the first picture. I have also seen a recent release of an SBD Dauntless by VQ which looks loooovley and fits the size.
  22. Reno Racer
    On electric models of 40 size and over, I have alway fitted an OPTO ESC and used a standard NIMH or LiFe for the receiver, as a glow model. That way If all the Amps escape from my lipo battery driving the motor, at least I can dead stick it back onto the patch.
  23. Reno Racer
    Looking at the forecast tomorrow should be a cracker for flying. Just charged up my trusty Escapade MX and PK Spitfire ( now she has retracts, no more belly landings) and will hopefully have success with my take off dolly for my recently completed Cambrian ME 109 fun fighter. Was hoping to fly my new LX models F4F Wildcat with swooshy retracts and folding wings, but I now remember why I don't like electrics, and a new motor and ESC is on order due to intermittent problems.
  24. Reno Racer
    With great expectation the two (very) back issues of Model Airplane News arrived, Feb and March 1983 to be precise, it all looks very dated, but in a nice way. The build articles by Bob Karlsson shed some light on the construction requirements, particularly the undercarriage, which will be my first job to master. Without the undercarriage, it's pointless building the Wildcat, since it's such an integral part of the essence of the fighter. I could buy the undercarriage from Century Jet in the UK for $719 plus shipping and taxes, errr no! That's excessive for a 90 size warbird. Funnily enough, even Bob suggests builders might consider splitting the fuselage and using the crutch method. So I think it makes sense the get the parts laser cut vertically. As I've said, I'll start the undercarriage first and see what happens! I just wonder if buying Hangar 9's new 20cc Corsair and reprinting her in Royal Navy colours ( like the 50 size one I did- my avatar). It would certainly be cheaper. Mmmmm decisions!
  25. Reno Racer
    Also just managed to find, and order, back issues of Model Aiplane News from Feb (main build) and Mar ( undercarriage) from 1983 so hopefully the articles shed some light on how the designer built the Wildcat.
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