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Alan Gorham_

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Everything posted by Alan Gorham_

  1. I don't think it's a Bi-fly, that had strip ailerons and a narrower cowl. My guess is it's a Sierra Sportster designed by Clive Smalley, plan still available from myhobbystores at: **LINK**
  2. I think it's a case of horses for courses with regard to oil. For example, if you have a "budget" engine with un-bushed conrod, plain crankshaft bearings and a ferrous piston and liner then I would always be tempted to use 20% castor in the fuel and perhaps more while running in. Such engines are rare these days, but some of Enya's 2-strokes are still built like this and if run on 20% castor will last forever. Modern engines with bushed conrods, ball-raced crankshaft bearings and either ringed or ABC piston/liners can be run on less oil and synthetic is certainly less gummy afterwards. Cox engines and diesels are again special cases. Personally I'd be loath to use less oil than the manufacturer recommends and in any case, most easily available commercial fuel that I can buy meets the manufacturers requirements of my engines, so I don't have to get involved in mixing. For Jon Harper, RAM props are still available, now made by SLEC: **LINK**
  3. Robert, great idea for a seldom built model. One thing, I think your power allowance is way, way over the top. In my experience of electric multi engine scale models, you need way less than 100W/lb power loading, but you are aiming for more than 100W/lb. That means you are spending more than you need on batteries and escs and possibly motors. At the very least you could look to prop down - I think scale diameter props would be significantly smaller than the 8" ones you are proposing? For illustration, here's three of my models that are more than adequately powered. 100" Lancaster 45W/lb 73" Beaufort 79W/lb 792 Halifax 70W/lb To be honest they all have an excessive amount of power, but I use the battery weights to help achieve balance. Food for thought?
  4. Pete Just Engines seem to have very recently increased the prices of the ASP engine range, probably as a result of the £/$ exchange rate fluctuations we have seen. It may well be that all other makes of imported engines will soon increase in price due to this. Food for thought when considering an engine made in the UK?
  5. For that sized model I'd be tempted to use 5 or 6 layers of 50g/square m cloth with perhaps some carbon tow or tape if the ply box is thin/flexible as you say. You could lay the carbon across the box as stiffening strips, while the glass cloth strengthens the box as a whole, plus the attachment to the fuselage.
  6. Chopped strand mat would be useless for wing joining anyway, so you are more likely to have a woven cloth and it's probably too heavy a weave to conform as you have found. What size engine and what model is it?
  7. There is a full traders list on the LMA website in the LMA Shows for 2016 board under the thread name "Much Marcle Traders". Been up since 17 August hope that helps!
  8. Pete Available here for £8: http://www.myhobbystore.co.uk/product/65274/galaxy-models-domino-replacement-build-plans Hope that was useful! Edited By Alan Gorham_ on 25/08/2016 09:41:25
  9. I think it has been demonstrated in the past that R/C flying club fields can actually be a beneficial habitat for wildlife. As pointed out above, the total area of any given flying field that is used for R/C activity (and I include parking club members cars in that area) is typically small. The land is not in constant use for flying, and only really the strip is mowed heavily, leaving the rest of the site undisturbed. Also, think about the amount of times a year a flying field is used/inhabited by humans...It will be deserted for a lot of the time and therefore attractive to wildlife. I rather thought the article linked to in the OP missed the chance to make that point and perhaps present the club as a good thing to have on your patch of land, thus helping them to find a new site.
  10. Dominic I think I may be able to offer a small correction to your first post. The model is built from the Duncan Hutson plan and uses the cowl and canopy mouldings - all are available from Traplet Publications (the other side to RCME...!). I spoke to the builder Mr Hardy last year at Wallop as I recognised the design straight away and have all the parts myself. Mr Hardy was kind enough to send me photos of his way of tackling the undercarriage which is slightly different to that shown by Duncan Hutson on the plan. I think your reference to details from Flypast magazine only relates to the fabulous interior that Mr Hardy has built as none of this detail is shown on Duncan Hutsons plans. You are right though, it is a lovely model and flies just right too. Edited By Alan Gorham_ on 09/08/2016 12:32:12
  11. It's simple to find for you then... Driving from Howtown towards Pooley Bridge, Waterside Farm campsite is on your left. If you are driving to watch the flying then the campsite charge for day parking and the shop is just inside the entrance to the farmyard. Once you've paid you can drive straight on into a camping field, then through into another field with a hill. Drive over the hill and you will see the flying site dead ahead. These are the co-ordinates I took from Google maps: 54°36'12.0"N 2°49'49.2"W
  12. Well it definitely does something because it had me driven crazy for a few hours one day when I had the wrong setting. The OP hasn't confirmed if he has tried changing his setting - it may just sort his problem or at least eliminate it as a potential factor. Edited By Alan Gorham_ on 21/06/2016 22:09:19
  13. Ive got a FF9 and when it was new I failed to appreciate the implications of correctly setting PCM/PPM mode depending on the type of Rx I was using and I got jittering. Before you strip anything down I recommend you use the "Servo" function in the Tx to see what the Tx thinks its transmitting....
  14. Martin, it's on both Saturday AND Sunday.... The flying site is within Waterside Farm Campsite near Pooley Bridge. You can walk down the lakeside public footpath from Pooley Bridge village past the flying site. May see you there, where are you staying?
  15. Yes I bought both of the items you mentioned. I am expecting two plans and one article, but the listing for the article didn't show the plan in the picture, so I wanted to be sure and bought a plan. Are you in Australia then James as your ebay links are ebay.com.au?
  16. James I bought the Avian article and plan from ebay this morning to replace a long-lost but cherished magazine. I'll happily scan the article for you when it arrives. PM me your email address and I'll get onto it. Alan
  17. Paul OS 4BK refers to the carburettor type. This carb was usually fitted to OS 40FSR and 45FSR engines, both very solid, powerful types, but again around 35 years old.
  18. Paul I think your model is a Piper Super Cub built from the old Radio Modeller plan RM84: http://www.myhobbystore.co.uk/product/16207/rm84--piper-super-cub   The plan is around 30-35 years old in my recollection and your model does look quite old too.   And it's definitely NOT a Flair Cub for several reasons: The Flair cub fuselage structure will not allow a side mounted engine I can see the rear fuselage structure where the sun is shining through the covering and it's built up from stick wood, again the Flair model is not designed like this. Your model has a separately moulded cowl - the Flair model does not.   Your model is more scale in many respects compared to the Flair model - I think the RM plan model is your best bet, follow the link and see the picture and decide yourself. The plan will help you with control throws and CG location, plus if the worst happens and you need to rebuild then you have all the info needed. I would just echo others thoughts that a good club with experienced instructors will be your best chance of success in getting this model in the air and letting your great nephew experience our great hobby! Edited By Alan Gorham_ on 08/05/2016 17:16:27
  19. Grant, yes you are correct that 4 strokes are torquier, but a Saito 40 won't end up giving the same thrust as an OS 40 FSR and that's the key at the end of the day. Percy, I agree with you up to a point: manufacturers quoted HP figures can be misleading as it is often not clear what parameters were applied during the HP test (i.e. fuel used, prop fitted, open exhaust or silencer fitted) however some of the "ye olde" magazine engine tests such as those done by PGF Chinn or Mike Billington were done on a dynamometer and as such they produced a torque and HP set of curves. Couple that with their rpm measurements on certain prop sizes and makes, it then became possible to prop your engine to make best use of either the peak power (screaming rpm) or low down grunt (torque) depending on your requirements.
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