Ultymate

All batteries lose performance in the cold weather even the good old lead acid jobby under your car bonnet

Probably the nearest big show to you Stuart is RAF Woodvale between Liverpool and Southport, it's usually staged on the first weekend in August

"Unlimited Downwards" I love that, unfortunately most of them are

I hav'nt flown one for a long time but being a club instructor the Yamamoto used to turn up quite regularly at one time. My lasting memories are that they were heavy and flew with the characteristics of a breeze block, well perhaps not quite that bad but it wants to fly fast all the time because of the high wing loading it's difficult for the novice pilot particularly in the landing approach. If memory serves me well the fibreglass version is worse than the built up one. Personally I think there's a lot of far better flying trainers on the market nowadays, mostly of the ARTF variety, perhaps these are not to everyones taste but unless a student wants to build I now invariably reccomend them to buy an ARTF  trainer deal as most fly very well indeed.  P.S. Always build in lightness

Most chemists take a dim view of anyone tryng to purchase ether these days as drug dealers use as part of the cutting process with the drugs so don't be suprised if you get some weird looks. There are sources if you look around and model diesel fuel is still available from some shops and Model Technics make three different grades. If you want to brew your own don't use the castor oil as supplied by the local chemist you need castrol "M" if you can find it, very hard these days or a lot of guys now use one of the Klotz oils I believe a castor/synthetic mix.

Don't worry Tim the rain that falls in Anglesey on Suday will pass the Orme horizontally and land in Chester

Myron a car battery that drops to 8.5 volts whilst cranking the starter be it diesel or petrol, and yes there is a different tolerence for the two types of engine, is knackered assuming that all connections in the relevant circuit are in good order. Why quote figures you know are wrong? and whats more have no relevance to the lipo issue, there are loads of people who've been using lipos or lithium ions for a couple of years or more now with no problems.

Not for much longer Nicads are slowly being withdrawn from the market due to their heavy metal content ie cadmium.

Sorry I forgot to mention in my post a reg is needed to bring the lipo voltage down to accepted level for the reciever and servos I've got one model running 5.5 volts and another running 6 volts. If you've not run lipos before you will also need a charger with a dedicated lithium charge program.

You aint wrong there Geoff

Bruce to check lipos properly I use a variable load voltmeter, a fully charged 2S lipo will show around 8.4V under a 1amp load and I charge when down to 7.0 volts again with the one amp load. The particular meter I use is produced by Hangar9 but I don't know whether it's available in the U.K. I got it from Troy Built Models in the States. You can charge your lipos in September and go fly them in March

Quote Christopher Small , "Regarding NiCads my JR radio is 18 years old Tx battery still going,Rx battery changed this year.Futaba Challenger 15 years old  batteries still going.Always disscharged after flying and recharged. NiMh batteries in digital camera packed in after a few charges. Have got 4 D size Ni Cads 26 years old still going,although 2 others packed in after 10 years"      Sorry Christopher but all you're proving to me is that you're tight with your money, you're risking your models and the safety of anyone who's around when you're flying by stretching the life of your batteries to that extent. for what battery packs cost it's just not worth it

Al's hobbies used to deal Protech a couple of years back  I've just been to the website and they still deal with Protech but are not listing the Extra at the moment, might be worth an email or phone call

If your calculations and formula are correct then yes it should accelerate vertically, as for the YS motors yes like a lot of sophistiacated bits of kit they take some skill in handling but they are supreme in the fourstroke model motor market place bar none JMHO.

If given the choice plump for Diet, Divorce is far too expensive Did she ask "does my bum look big in this" ??

All I can say is the Lasers are loved by scale modellers but are not renowned as powerhouses very rarely do you come across one being used for aerobatics. If moneys no object stick a Y.S. 110 in it and light the blue touch paper.

You did'nt say Fokker in front of the wife did you ???  

Sorry to rain on your parade Doug but you can still get icing on fuel injected engines, it's the moisture in the air getting moved down the inlet tract that forms the ice and usually manifests itself as a golf ball sized lump of ice above the throttle butterfly although many motors do now have heated manifolds which alleviate icing P.S. Maybe something to be said for rear mounted carbs under winter conditions as they're tucked away from the icy propwash

Negative with Futaba Pos with JR, not sure on this new fangled 2.4 but I'm sure Timbo will fill us in

Sorry to disagree Ernie but the thickness of the airfoil has little to do with 3D flight which as I've said above takes place when the wings are stalled i.e. no longer flying, the aircraft simply flying on propwash. Yes the thicker funly sections will fly better at slower speeds but that is when the wings are still generating lift "capiche"  As for your Capiche whichever size it is, give it a decent 3D setup i.e. loads of movement and probably plenty of exponential to soften things up around centres and possibly experiment with the C/G and it will be equally if not more 3D capable than your Cougar, in the right hands they really do make an excellent performer 

Quinn there are far too many names in this field which are very confusing. Airframes that are now called freestyle are usually derivatives of F3A or pattern ships which have much enlarged flight surfaces (elevators ailerons and rudder) to make them 3D capable on high rates and still good for pattern on low rates. Then there's the fun fly types these are the one with the thick wing sections ie Cougar Hype etc, these will do a lot of 3D  but sometimes fall down in certain aspects and certainly won't fly pattern style and are not intended to be flown at high air speeds. Finally there's the scale or semi-scale aerobats ie Edges Extras Katanas Ultimates etc that again have enlarged flight surfaces which on high rates become very 3D capable or on low rates can be used for IMAC competition flying. The essence of 3D basically is that the wings have ceased to fly in a conventional manner ,that is they are stalled and the aircraft is being flown on vectored propthrust, obviously the other major thing needed is a very high power to weight ratio of at least 1.5:1. I hope this helps, if you have further questions post away. 

Here's a link to the Barton club forum  http://www.controlline.org.uk/phpBB2/index.php probably the best source of control line info available hope it helps

Absolutely the Holy Grail of control line I'll have you know  http://www.controlline.org.uk/phpBB2/index.php We're getting a little off the old silken thread here

Sorry my mistake had'nt realised that said powerbox is not lipo compliant, lines crossed must stick to control line in future back to the Barton forum

Sorry to butt in here being a "Newbie" on here, but I just can't understand your reluctance Doug to bite the bullet and fit lipos, you've obviously spent a lot on the powerbox setup so why not go the whole hog and fit lipos in your airframe and save a shedload of weight to boot. I know you said earlier that weight doesn't matter on a model this size but in my experience it does. I've been using lipos in a 33% Extra for the last three years with absolutely no probs on the radio the only thing I would say is if your going to use them on electronic ignitions make sure you use a quality regulator as the cheaper ones fail on ignition systems ( don't ask how I know) JMHO