gillyg1

Guys - i have a laser 80 fitted in a VQ fw190, and yes the tank ( slec - yellow) is at the fitted height, so the c/l of the tank is way above where it should be, ( in line with the carb) and the only draw back being fuel leaks out the carb when tank is full. Don't have another problems, and runs sweet, as a sewing machine. But i do have a pressure nipple fitted to the exhaust, Don't know if this makes a difference ? And i'm quite happy with this set up.. So you loose a few drops of fuel prior to starting. Just my thoughts / input.?

Nice choice of engine SW, laser 80 me thinks ?, thats going to be my choice, when i finally get around to it. Finishing off the 110, at the spraying stage ?, 2x rcv 58 cd's .

Try" Diacov" available from " sarik hobbies" who have a sale on now until the 31st. Never used it personally so no experience of it. But reviews seem good, £10 / running mtr. ?

No. Brown paper straight onto wood, obviously having sanded and filled where necessary , ( B&Q light weight filler ?)

Ok its a relatively soft finish, compared to fibre glass method. You could use subsequent coats of poly c , to harden up the finish , instead of the dope, as its just a surface sealer. The more coats of poly c, the more " ding proof". Method:- primer , light sand ( wet or dry) then colours - emulsion, then when decals, weathering, panel lines, rivets etc, ie finished : then apply fuel proofer, and yes i spray all mine. Except for "touching in" with a brush. No its not a real hard finish. But is fairly resilient. And you realy only need to fuel proof the : engine bay, tank bay , cowling, and exhaust areas. As using automotive lacquer : 2x part , it sets in about 30 mins. I got mine from my son, hes a car finisher/ sprayer , runs his own business, same as the brown paper as thats what they use for masking up. So if you know anyone in that line of business ?

I personally use the brown paper method. Applied to sheeted surfaces, use your coverall for the fabric surfaces. Apply like wall papering, thinned pva.with water, like milk. Apply to dull side of brown paper. Allow 30secs to grow, apply to surface, rubbing out the creases. Use covering iron, i have a travelling iron, to help adhering, pva reacts to heat. Allow to dry overnight, Light sand , 600 wet n dry , used dry. Apply coat of dope to seal surface. I thin the dope,and add banana oil, takes out the shrinking effect of dope. Light sand when dry.- ready for primer etc. I use automotive " high build" 2 pack. Fuel proofer - (glow) automotive 2 part lacquer. : 1x coat give a matt/satin finish, subsequent coats will result in a gloss finish. This is my preferred finishing technique. For finishing colours- B n Q match pots, emulsion, £3 a pot, made to any colour, matt finish. Hope this helps ? Cheers Graham. Ps brown paper method - as used by " Warbird Replicas" modellers, Richard Wills - kits ? Look up / read some of the WR threads ,

Martin , i have used stiff card and pva to line my wheel well walls. ie the depth around the edges, cheaper than balsa. Cereal box, etc plenty in the recycling box ?

What we really need is a beaufighter, big enough for a pair of laser 70/80s . I know there is the TN 72" electric one, could convert that to i/c, and then there was one that fsm did a write up on, 89 " but that was a one off , and yes i'am into i/c. But we've been here before. Spoken to RW himself regarding this topic in the past. So don't hold out much hope. Thats my "pipe dream" ?

Anyone know where i can get replacement 'O' rings, for a variable rate air control valve, in the uk. Yes robart stock them in the states, pt no 167008P, is the one's i need . Many thanks Graham

David, ref fuel proofer, i use " deluxe materials - aerokote, yes its a 2x pt mix , with a gloss finish, use the " matting agent" if you want a satin/ matt finish. I only do around the engine bay, tank bay, exhaust areas. ?

Martin Your right about having WR kits in the loft. Got the Mustang and a Hurricane waiting. Currently refurbishing my LA7 for the umpteenth time, have now added flaps to slow down the landings hopefully. As it was a tad fast with a OS70 FS upfront. Then got to finish the 110,- at the painting stage. looking to do some nice weathering/panel line finishing, So any thoughts/articles chaps would be appreciated ?? Do like the idea of a WR Kits meet up / fly in, would have to be a camping venue as its a long way from Cornwall, Got a campervan so no problems there. Get to put a face to a few names on here. Cheers Graham (Cornwall)

Richard, put me down for a set please,? Graham ( Cornwall)

Jonathan. Use the cheapist pva you can find .. Gorilla is expensive. Dilute around 10% Apply too dull side of brown paper with a soft brush, like wall papering. Allow to "grow" for 30 seconds ish. Apply to surface, smooth out from the middle useing a soft cloth. When wrinkle free, iron on. I use a travel iron, temprature set to number 1. PVA reacts too heat. Its a "doodle" Graham, cornwall

The rate you build Ron, you"ll need at least x2, which brings me on nicely to - " would you build one for me" as you seem to have more time to do so .? Or are you thinking of setting up a building services ?

"No worries mate " as and when . Graham Cornwall ?

So thats 5x for a B17 plus yourself. Getting there for future developements, when you get organised again after the move.?

Now if Richard was to do a Beaufighter , count me in please, but at the moment i've still 2 in the loft waiting, while i finish the 110.( i/c powered - 2x rcv 58 cd's ) some of us are still working ? and have other commitments , perks of being married .

A little bit more done, cockpit detailing finished, just have to sort aerial fixing then glue canopy on.

Sorry yeah meant B17 ?

So Richard did we ever get anywhere with the B25, for 4x 52/61 fs ?

I do the same as Andy, plus spray triangular fillets with a water mist to aid plyability / suppleness, using wood glue - pva / alaphatic, pin in place, leave to dry over night, then fill/shape as required.?

Jonathan -i use the brown paper that the car body sprayers use for masking up. So pop down to your local car spraying shop and see if they'll let you have some ?

Nice job Ron, like you say alot of working out, be worth it in the end.?

I personally - if WR or should that be RW ,were to produce another twin, would prefer a beaufighter for a pair of lazers, which would obviously have to be slightly larger size, but we've been down this road before on another forum. Ron, following your thread with interest , being i/c. ?

Graeme, i use the same, normal shrinking dope, add some banana oil with it , this take out/ reduces the shrinking effect, then thin down abit with cellulose thinners, job done. Not many people are aware off this , method as used by Brian Taylor.?