ASH.

Thanks Nigel, that is very interesting. I flew today, had the usual 10% on, with light winds my 3Kg 71" high wing slippery model on low rates (58%) was erratic in the turns. Got to remember to increase the expo to 12-13% in calm conditions. Some people even expert flyers like it 'raw'.   subscribed.   Edited By ASH. on 30/04/2019 23:52:26

I am a firm believer in Expo... Not much, just 10-12%. It's almost negligible but it helps smooth out the centre ever so slightly. I would always recommend it to all. And newbies need not fear it. I don't fly 3D.

Your model looks super in that picture Tim. The red and white livery is striking. The light reflectlng off the surfaces and the sky makes for a  atmospheric shot. Edited By ASH. on 29/04/2019 22:42:49

That last photo is superb. Great flying shot of your bi-plane Graham.

'altering settings too much'. That what it was Tim. A good reminder for us all - only change one variable at a time.

Oh Tim, I'm so sorry to hear of your loss. It saddened me to read that. She was a beautiful model and I know you put a lot of time and effort into her.. Commiserations. On the positve side - You have many other beautiful models to fly - you're a lucky guy! As has been suggested put her away - for a few days, then strip and then access the damage. I know your dab hand with the fibreglass and epoxy so you never know. See how you feel then. Good flying weather the next couple of days.

Looking good Tim. Could you give some more details on your flexi pipe arrangement. Is there any brazing involved and how is it affixed to the engine? I have a Laser 70. Will like to use it one day without the muffler if I can. Also, the AUW on your model? I use a 14x6 APC on my Saito72, gives good thrust, torque and flywheel effect. No "flameouts" ever. Tried lighter Graupner 13x6 and 14x6 wood and found engine cut on the down verticles coming out of a loop.      Edited By ASH. on 10/04/2019 23:41:51

Cymaz, regarding flyaway trims.. I would seal them by using clearcoat or clear nail varnish. I know it can be time consuming and it's somewhat superficial compared to other things discussed here but it will help preserve her looks.

flyboy, yes, the crankcase breather tube is very important. Keeo it simple and attach a lenght of fuel tubing to nipple which exits ouside of the cowl. Don't worry about the lenght, Secure it loosely to the engine mount and also zip tie to end of silencer leaving an inch or so hanging. Excess oil will be ejected out clear of the fuselage. Just make sure tubing has no kinks so oil and pressure can move freely This tube also allows you to inject After Run Oil into the crankcase after a flying session, something which is Best Practise - to preserve bearings & cam from corrosion etc. Plug the end after to keep sealed. Happy flying. Hope you enjoy your fourstroke as much as I enjoy mine.

Does anyone have a single cylinder South Herts Intelligent glow they would be willing to sell. Perhaps you have gone over to petrol or electric and have no need of yours. Please let me know.   Edited By ASH. on 27/03/2019 19:33:55

Thanks JD8, I'll give chlorine a miss. I have used Cillit Bang and non scratch scourer with good success on silencers with burnt on oil. But how to get to valve stem and exhaust chamber? Halfords may have something.

What about cooking it in antifreeze in a crockpot? It's a age old recipe which people say works. I just don't want to discolour or affect the aluminium and other metals. Any ideas -anyone? The chlorine is interesting.. I will have to experiment.   Edited By ASH. on 20/03/2019 20:29:43

Reading all the posts above I think I'm being converted to fully synthetic (I am so easily swayed ). But no, I cannot give up totally on castor just yet! It not only helps me to sleep better but castor vapour soothes the olfactory nerve with nostalgia.. Does anyone know or have any info on ML70? I'm thinking of switching from Klotz. Also, what's the best way to remove carbon without dismantling and grinding? As to the varnish mentioned above, I've seen photos of brown stain coating on engine cylinder &piston which had only been run on fully synthetic. No info on oil on Aspen website - *LINK*

Old timers swear by Castor - it has a higher flash point than synthetic and so protects the engine in case of accidental lean runs. As to oil content,, I'm now using 12% Klotz (2%castor) reduced from 18%, 6.6% nitro. To my surprise I find a significant increase in power which I can only put down to reduced drag from oil friction something I had previously been highly sceptical of.. However, I have found the Saito 72 runs hotter especially when flown at WOT. The engine is tuned to optimum on both needles and so there is very little oil residue to clean up from fuselage underside. How does Klotz Technipate compare with ML70 apart from huge price difference..? I have heard European oils are more superior to the American stuff which is ester based PAG or POE..!?? I am concerned about the carbon build up on exhaust valve/ chamber. I will have to find some way to clean it off when I come to do the bearings. Anyone know the best way to do this without completely dismantling the valves,rockers etc. I was thinking of getting an UltraSonic cleaner. I know I know, I probably need therapy but I'm hooked on the aroma of burning castor.   Edited By ASH. on 17/03/2019 20:27:37

Graphite has been suggested for tight pushrods, it may work for this.

I admire your modelling skills Martin. One question : What tool do you use to cut out lightening holes in the control surfaces?

Reading all this makes me feel very nostalgic. The 70's and 80's..the good old days.. Where have they gone?

Nigel, I wrap white PTFE plumbers tape on the threads and nip it up real tight. It always stays put.

Oh great, lolly sticks to emulate the sound of a piston engine. I've heard of 'fake it to make it'.. but this is taking the biscuit. I once saw an electric model with a plastic dummy glow engine on the front - That's sad.Edited By ASH. on 29/11/2018 21:53:57

  Another 'Soul' Classic - You've gotta have it to do it. https://youtu.be/8AXkfhqvO44 Edited By ASH. on 29/11/2018 01:19:46

This is all getting a bit deep and esoteric now.. Let's just say 'you've gotta have some Soul to know Soul'.

'Soul' , Man.. You've either got it or you haven't...

Ooooh... I don't think Jon would agree, nor I on - "they are lumps of various metals hacked into shape". Far from it.

Hey Buster, I too, like many others find electric flight boring and soulless.. and it's not about just about power and performance. IC engines are living breathing things. There's a lot going on in an engine,, mechanical and chemical, and it all has to come together perfectly to work properly - just like in your car. Except, it's done on such a miniature scale. I find that fascinating. When the plane is in the air you're not consciously thinking all this but you know it's happening from the sight smell and sound. I'm glad I've had such good success and satisfaction with all my engines. This satisfaction I put this down to time and effort spent in learning about them to maximize their full potential. They are not difficult to operate they just require some patience.. At the end of the day it's about how it makes you 'feel' - that's why we fly. As for MDS (Made for Dead Stick), please don't be too disparaging about the Russian make.. My first glow was an MDS48, ran faultlessly and saw me through my 'A' cert and beyond to the disbelief of club mates. Lastly, if you've never flown IC or had much luck with them and are strictly electric - then that's okay. You don't know what you are missing. Edited By ASH. on 28/11/2018 20:06:29

Not this ol' chestnut again!? Whatever suits you.. You can do both electric and ic cheaply if you want by keeping the model size small. I prefer 60 size models and love ic glow engines, esp quality 4st. Some say with batteries it's like buying all your fuel up front,, but 6S are not cheap and don't last for ever. More importantly they are an absolute pain to charge and maintain IMO. Charging a Rx batt is enough for me. Electric models are also more fragile. I understand when mobility issues affect some of us and it's much simpler, easier to fly electric, or not fly at all - that's perfectly understandable. But until then... As to this cleaning business, it makes me laugh. Are we afraid to get our hands dirty now!? Jon, Tim - with your talk of sprays and blue paper you're gonna scare off some of these folk for ever. Just use a couple of wet wipes- (Tesco Multi-Surface lemon does the job well).